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Progress on France's Dune Buggy
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After 16,000 miles and visiting OBX, it was time to detail a few components.

We found the source of the small oil leak on the engine. The O-Ring on the distributor was letting oil pass and messing the rear of the engine.

We took the transmission out and replaced the final drive seals, we took the opportunity to replace the 3rd gear synchro that was a little warn.

A little elbow grease took care of the surface rust on the Sidewinder. I also decided to replace the exhaust studs with stainless ones. As Eric from Island Cruisers rental told me, everything rusts in OBX including plastic.

Here are a few pictures of the results.

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BIGMIKEY
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How are you liking the sync-link?
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1973 Beetle Driver, Marina Blue.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should put a loop in the vacuum line for the distributor. That will prevent full from running down the hold and and collecting in the vacuum canister. There it will eat away ad the diaphragm and eventually it will fail.
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Oz Towdster
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent , just DON'T fit stainless steel nuts to those exhaust studs as the heat will cause them to freeze together even with the thread lubricant .
I'dd be even dubious to whether the stainless studs are any good as the heat will also make the stainless brittle not to even mention having disimilar metals together .

Andrew
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BIGMIKEY wrote:
How are you liking the sync-link?


Best linkage I've ever used. Very smooth and never needs adjusting. Only drawback is you need to pull the cable from pedal to remove engine. Highly recommend.
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
You should put a loop in the vacuum line for the distributor. That will prevent full from running down the hold and and collecting in the vacuum canister. There it will eat away ad the diaphragm and eventually it will fail.


You know, I never thought of that. Thanks for the tip.
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oz Towdster wrote:
Vincent , just DON'T fit stainless steel nuts to those exhaust studs as the heat will cause them to freeze together even with the thread lubricant .
I'dd be even dubious to whether the stainless studs are any good as the heat will also make the stainless brittle not to even mention having disimilar metals together .

Andrew


Thanks Andrew, I'll re-check but I ran 1 cylinder (as a test) from the beginning the SS nuts and stud and it was not seized. I'll report back.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oz Towdster wrote:
Vincent , just DON'T fit stainless steel nuts to those exhaust studs as the heat will cause them to freeze together even with the thread lubricant .
I'dd be even dubious to whether the stainless studs are any good as the heat will also make the stainless brittle not to even mention having disimilar metals together .

Andrew

Stainless gets brittle when heated. Use standard hardened steel studs and copper or brass nuts.
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
Oz Towdster wrote:
Vincent , just DON'T fit stainless steel nuts to those exhaust studs as the heat will cause them to freeze together even with the thread lubricant .
I'dd be even dubious to whether the stainless studs are any good as the heat will also make the stainless brittle not to even mention having disimilar metals together .

Andrew

Stainless gets brittle when heated. Use standard hardened steel studs and copper or brass nuts.


Thanks Glenn, I don't doubt your info, I'll run a test on the SS studs I put in 16,000 miles ago and report back.
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vincent9993 wrote:
Glenn wrote:
Oz Towdster wrote:
Vincent , just DON'T fit stainless steel nuts to those exhaust studs as the heat will cause them to freeze together even with the thread lubricant .
I'dd be even dubious to whether the stainless studs are any good as the heat will also make the stainless brittle not to even mention having disimilar metals together .

Andrew

Stainless gets brittle when heated. Use standard hardened steel studs and copper or brass nuts.


Thanks Glenn, I don't doubt your info, I'll run a test on the SS studs I put in 16,000 miles ago and report back.


I took the stud off #4 that I put in new 16,000 miles ago and it came out without any resistance. I then tried to bend it to see if it had become brittle and I got almost 90deg out of it.

Not sure if the thread lubricant I use had anything to do with my result but it's rated for 1,800F.

Here's my non scientific proof:

Link
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the Anti-Seize I use on everything:

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a number of different types of stainless.

Most home centers sell the cheap kind.
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BIGMIKEY
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

:58 seconds, cue giant crescent wrench. Very Happy
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Deserter Series 1 project.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=787047&highlight=

1973 Beetle Driver, Marina Blue.
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Oz Towdster
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you know what grade the stainless is please Vincent as that's pretty good
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oz Towdster wrote:
Do you know what grade the stainless is please Vincent as that's pretty good


I'm not 100% sure but I guess it's comparable to grade 5. I got them from Totally Stainless
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got around to making a support bracket to steady the steering column.

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Buggies are back under their covers for to wait out the long winter ahead of us...

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herbsflat4
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:46 am    Post subject: Support? Reply with quote

Vincent - Why the support bracket? Is your column not supported on the inside of the body? If it is within the build thread somewhere I apologize for asking again..
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got around to hooking up the lights in the gauges.

Appologize for the crappy iPhone pictures and video...
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We also installed a PAC-Audio TR-7 timer to delay the shut off of the gauges. This allows the tachometer to drop to zero and gives France a chance to note the milage in the logbook at fuel stops.


Link
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 3:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Support? Reply with quote

herbsflat4 wrote:
Vincent - Why the support bracket? Is your column not supported on the inside of the body? If it is within the build thread somewhere I apologize for asking again..


Sorry for the delay, I was sure I had already answered... They say memory is the 2nd thing to go, can't remember what's the 1st...

Yes the support on the dash brace is pretty solid but since we have a u-joint connected to the rag-joint, there was quite a bit of play on the column. Adding the extra brace has realy snuged up the column.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really like what Speedhut has to offer in gauges. I have never heard anything bad on performance, fit or longevity.

Looks Nice Vincent!
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