Type 3 swing axle nose cone compatability question

[vdubjiunkie]

Hello all.

I have a '64 Notchback with a swing axle trans. I need to fix a leak, which I believe is at the parting line of the nose cone.

I also want to install reverse lights and thought it would be a good time to swap out my nose cone for one with the reverse switch.

It seems my year calls for a 113 301 205 "gearshift housing" and I would imagine one with a reverse switch is identical to mine, aside from the threads for the switch, but I would like to verify.

Also, is the shift lever going to be different, to be able to activate that switch?

What else might I not be thinking about here? As always, any help is greatly appreciated.
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1964 Type 3 Notchback
1969 Karmann Ghia shell in need of full body off restoration
2004 WRX

"It Is Difficult to Get a Man to Understand Something When His Salary Depends Upon His Not Understanding It" - Upton Sinclair

[sjbartnik]

Having done this exact conversion on my ‘65, yes it’s easy.

The later version of the swing axle nose cone will bolt right up. You don’t have to change anything with the shift rod, it’s already in the right place to activate the switch.

Note that the earliest version of the nose cone has a bushing where the shift rod enters while later ones have a proper oil seal there.

Then all you have to do is figure out how to power the lights. I just did it the same way VW did, running a power wire from the coil (with inline fuse!!) to the switch and then another wire from the switch to the lamp (I have only one reversing lamp, bumper-mounted).

Also, re your leak, check the detent plugs on the right side of the transmission (and one facing the ground). The original plastic plugs break up over time and cause leaks. Kits are available to replace the plastic with metal ones that tap in.
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[vdubjiunkie]

That's perfect. Thanks for the verification. I also planned to come off the coil to power the lights, but hadn't yet found the detent plugs as a possible source of th leak.

In my case, when I fill the gear oil up to full, it leaks a while, then stops. That is what had me thinking it could be something to do with the nose cone. It certainly isn't from either drain plug!
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1964 Type 3 Notchback
1969 Karmann Ghia shell in need of full body off restoration
2004 WRX

"It Is Difficult to Get a Man to Understand Something When His Salary Depends Upon His Not Understanding It" - Upton Sinclair

[sjbartnik]

The nose cone is very simple to remove and won’t screw up anything inside the transmission to do so. There’s just a paper gasket between the nose cone and the gear carrier. Not much to leak unless there’s a crack in it.

The bronze bushing for the shift rod can let fluid by, especially if it’s worn, but that will drain into the shift coupler cover, not the ground.

While you have the nose cone off, ensure the vent drilling is clear. You’ll see it when you have it off.

Do check the detent plugs - if they are the original plastic (or are missing) you might as well replace them. Most kits only have the three plugs for the side, but there is a fourth smaller plug which faces the ground. You have to back a stud out to replace it but it’s easy. Just gotta find the kit that has the four plugs. I don’t remember what vendor I got it from.

But you just pick out the remnants of the old plugs, then tap in the new ones with some sealer around them.
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[Bobnotch]

Make sure you either reuse your original T-3 hockey stick, or your new one matches the dimples in it. If you don't you'll have trouble getting the trans to shift right.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120