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tjet
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will do.

I have one of these 5 gallon jugs. I mix it 50/50 with distilled water (2 gallon coolant & 2 gal wtr) & lay it down on the roof with a 8' clear hose pressed tightly (no leaks) into the surge tank (pressure res).

Remove the radiator bleeder & let it flush. Install the bleeder when the water coolant mix color matches the premix (It will be 2/3's empty) Works good. Make sure you get a square jug.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VP-Racing-White-5-Gallon-S...mp;vxp=mtr
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0to60in6min
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mix it 50/50 with distilled water... please...
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tjet
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kamzcab86 wrote:
0to60in6min wrote:
Quote:
So what is best for a WBX, nitrate-free or silicate-free?


if you look at the upper right corner - Pentofrost NF (with silicate) - at the list of vehicle - it's for Volskawagen (up to 06/1966)


^Typo. Wink Pentofrost NF, which is G11, is for Volkswagens up to 6/1996.

Here's a breakdown of VW's coolants over the production years:

Up to 1996: G11 (Ethylene Glycol-based with silicates, phosphate-free)
1996-2003: G12 (Ethylene Glycol-based, phosphate- & silicate-free)
2003-2008: G12+ (Ethylene Glycol-based with special additives; phosphate- & silicate-free)
2008-2010: G12++ (Ethylene Glycol-based with silicates; phosphate- & nitrite-free)
2010-present: G13 (Ethylene Glycol-based with silicates; phosphate- & nitrite-free)


Ok then, I will use that Pentofrost NF. I just replaced the WP (87 2.1) & I currently have straight water in it (for leak checks). Thanks
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0to60in6min
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks Kam...

there's not enough coffee when I typed it..

Very Happy
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kamzcab86
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

0to60in6min wrote:
Quote:
So what is best for a WBX, nitrate-free or silicate-free?


if you look at the upper right corner - Pentofrost NF (with silicate) - at the list of vehicle - it's for Volskawagen (up to 06/1966)


^Typo. Wink Pentofrost NF, which is G11, is for Volkswagens up to 6/1996.

Here's a breakdown of VW's coolants over the production years:

Up to 1996: G11 (Ethylene Glycol-based with silicates, phosphate-free)
1996-2003: G12 (Ethylene Glycol-based, phosphate- & silicate-free)
2003-2008: G12+ (Ethylene Glycol-based with special additives; phosphate- & silicate-free)
2008-2010: G12++ (Ethylene Glycol-based with silicates; phosphate- & nitrite-free)
2010-present: G13 (Ethylene Glycol-based with silicates; phosphate- & nitrite-free)
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0to60in6min
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
So what is best for a WBX, nitrate-free or silicate-free?


if you look at the upper right corner - Pentofrost NF (with silicate) - at the list of vehicle - it's for Volkswagen (up to 06/1996)


Last edited by 0to60in6min on Mon Jun 01, 2015 12:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My understanding of why you should change your antifreeze every two years is because it becomes an electrolyte, like in a battery. Your test strips are most likely just checking to see how acidic it is. As it becomes acidic, the Noble metals start shedding themselves, moving to the next lower metal on the range.
(zinc and aluminum are the sissies....)

Boats parked next to each other at an ocean dock, with an electrical leak into the water by one, can dissolve the entire motor in a short period of time. (Swimmers can also get lethally shocked!) The same thing happens inside your VW engine.

The azeotrope mixture of EG/H2O has poor rust inhibiting qualities, and additives help. But after even one year it's common to see a rust colored antifreeze. You're smart to change to a fresh mixture.
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use the cheapest green undiluted coolant I can get at NAPA. It's their $12.49/gallon house brand. Works great. I save the exotic $30/gallon Euro brand for my Audi. Mainly because I like having a bottle of that stuff on the shelf next to the other exotic oils and lotions and potions - heh.

The Vanagon WBX is a pretty low stressed, low tech engine and I'm not sure it needs to be fed pricey coolants. If I ever switch, it will be to a nontoxic simply because of how much these girls leak onto the street!!
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tjet
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

0to60in6min wrote:
I use Pentosin NF - flush and replace every 1.5 to 2 years....

http://www.pentosin.net/f_antifreeze.asp


So what is best for a WBX, nitrate-free or silicate-free? (or... what's best to avoid head gasket leaks)?
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hans j
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, we use the blue bmw coolant to replace g11
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0to60in6min
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Pentosin NF - flush and replace every 1.5 to 2 years....

http://www.pentosin.net/f_antifreeze.asp
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tjet
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not VW G13?

I use it in all my VW's

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

anybody use BMW coolant?

is it just a re-branded German coolant? or does BMW require a certain spec. ...??
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Understood - my question is about a longer than 2 year change interval with testing (using test strips) & periodic replenishment of the additive package.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
what is DCA ?

does the Subaru product not also contain conditioners and other additives, besides having a stop leak function?

My goal is not to keep the same coolant in there for decades, just a few years, and it is not clear to me why a long-life coolant with ot w/o additional additive packages can last 10, 20 or more years in other alloy motor cars, but not in a Vanagon(?)


I don't think it would be wise to try and run any engine that long without replenishing the additives from time to time.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what is DCA ?

does the Subaru product not also contain conditioners and other additives, besides having a stop leak function?

My goal is not to keep the same coolant in there for decades, just a few years, and it is not clear to me why a long-life coolant with ot w/o additional additive packages can last 10, 20 or more years in other alloy motor cars, but not in a Vanagon(?)
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It must be another Miracle happenening here.

Running 5/30 water thin oil in that engine when the the suggested oil during the summer months is minimum 15/40, just plainly is insane.
It's not suggested in your owner's manual, it's not suggested in the Bently, it's not suggest by any competant VW dealer.
How you came upon this wacky Eurika on your own--and then braodcasting it live, is beyond me.


FYI--there is some sort of combustion by products found in every internal combustion engines coolant.
Not on day one.
Maybe not on day two.
But on day 679 the coolant wil have some sort of combustion related contamination.
The coolant will be suspending some sort of garbage in it.
It's DCA level will be down--regardless of how much & how often you add that subaru jello & allow to float around in the system--how mch sealer can a system hold in suspesion without screwing something up?

If you had hung a water filter set up on the engine that would grab most of the crap outa the system, this would ave been the right way to go--no problem.
You'd have to eliminate the Subaru seal a meal garbage --it would plug the filter up right away,and deem it worthless.
Plus--to never change that coolant is a fools wish for longevity.

Tell me you have a spin on water filter with a conditioer pill in it only on that engine, & I'll believe you don't ever change the coolant.

Until than--I'd keep this one to yourself--I sure wouldn't be announcing the haphazzard methods you are practicing to screw up your cooling system.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My engines last longer than most with the oils I run and the way I treat my coolant. How old is your radiator? Mine is still original and cools just fine at 300K miles. Why are you getting products of combustion into your coolant? Maybe its time you fixed those compression leaks. Lime and mineral scale??? Is that coming from you Chicago tap water? Try some distilled water next time?
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 2:12 pm    Post subject: Re: coolant replacing Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
I pretty much never change the antifreeze, just add coolant conditioner once a year. My '91 self changed fairly frequently from the time we bought it new until it got the Subaru several years ago. No coolant leaks at all since then. My junk 83 1/2 got a coolant change on purchase and then made it without any substantial coolant issues until the engine died 75,000 miles later. My Syncro was somewhere between those two extremes.


And all of this good information is coming to you live direct from the Wildthang, who runs 5/30 in his engine 24/7/367 wihich is agiainst any logical thinking, against the grain of the VW issue owner's manual, & against the grain of the information listed in the back of the self service portion of the oh holy Bentley.
If you made a phone call to a VW Dealer they would tell you this is a bad idea themselves .

Now here he is--the oil man, suggesting to forget changing the coolant every two years--just keep topping off that coolant with conditioner.
As someone else mentioned-- it's pretty cheap insurance to change the coolant every once inwhile.

There is going to be a time that that coolant , regardless of how much conditioner he tosses at it will become over saturated with combustion by-products.
It's a way of the inyternal combustion engine, and no conditioner is going to remove that.
Lime & mineral scale from the water your mixing will eventually over contaminate that coolant.

No conditioner will overcome this phenomina--forever.

Subaru conditioner AND STOP LEAK ONCE A YEAR?( and this is what this stuff is--conditioner & stop leak)

Perfect suggestion for a long term mix of jello for coolant.

Real good suggetion there Wildthang--

I'll take a pass & change the coolant every 2 years--it ain't goona break the bank.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
I'm asking because I replaced the Temp II sensor and lost a fair amount of coolant before I was able to shove a catch pan under there.

My coolant is 2 years old now - sounds like I can go a bit further if I add the coolant conditioner and some distilled water... (?)

Another question -- various places around have test strips for coolant. Do these simply test the freezing point / boiling point, or do they test the conditioning package?


Strip test for additives.

http://www.radstrips.com/

However if your coolant no longer will pass the strip test, you might want to change your antifreeze verses just adding coolant conditioner. I feel conditioner is a preventative measure and not something to start adding once the original additive package has gone to pot.

I add conditioner when I first do a coolant change on buying a new to me rig, or when an engine has been overhauled and then add it regularly from there.
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