Autodynamics Deserter build

[jspbtown]

Well the Avenger is up at the house...where its gonna be sold or will sit until the spring when I feel like fiddling with it again to get it going 100%.

Since I had an open spot in the shop I decided to drag in the Deserter for my winter project. I bought this about 2 years ago and it has been sitting under wrap next to my shop since then. The front right wheel was locked up so it was fun times getting it into the shop.

As you can see its pretty rough...but most of my projects are. My wife said "at least this one has a floor". I couldn't break it to her that it was going to be cut out.

Plans are for a flat floor with tube rails. Maybe diamondplate again. I have got 3 sets of wheels to choose from, 3 sets of seats, a 1600cc DP motor, some kads, a chrome tilt column, some vdo gauges, a chrome exhaust, the windshield and posts, some 40's style lights for the back and some other odds and ends I have been collecting.

This one might be a keeper since it is longer than most buggies so I will get some extra well needed leg room.

Color is still up in the air. I may feel ambitious enough to try to candy....

Plans are to rebuild the chassis and do body work over the winter, paint in the early spring, and be on the road for the summer. Thats the plans at least. It sure helps that my son get can himself to practice now. Shuttle busing really limited my time over the past few years.

[GS guy]

Great to see your GT finally getting some much needed TLC Jeff! I'll definitely be following your build thread as I'm sure you've got some unique tricks and ideas up your sleeve you're dying to build into it! Those Gotti's will put it over the top!

I'm going to have to start my own build thread on here, but holding off until I can start the final assembly on the chassis..... (it may be a while!)
Jeff
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70's vintage Deserter GS buggy - undergoing transformation to Super GS!

[jsturtlebuggy]

Going to be a nice looking buggy when your done with it.
From what I have read and been told the wheelbase is suppose to be 84in.
_________________
Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960

[bim55]

That's a very solid looking GT shell, a nice or better than average starting point for sure.

How come the IRS trailing arms are not hitting the storage boxes??

Boston Bob E
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Boston Bob E.
www.bimelliott.com www.deserterownersgroup.org

[jspbtown]

Bob,

Are they supposed to be? I haven't had a good look at it yet, but I did notice that the pan has the long torsion arm covers.

I don't know much about it yet. I did see that it has front adjusters installed.

Other than that its a mystery. I bought it because it was on the cheap side, the body had never been drilled or cut, and it had the windshield posts.

[gr8cobbler]

Glad to see there will be a quality build to watch over the long cold winter ahead. One of my favorite body styles too.

Spring will bring better buyers for the Avenger and you certainly deserve top dollar for it.
_________________
Gary

Being a cheap old fart is just a front for my actual lack of money.

[bim55]

Generally speaking, the body was made with the swing axle in mind? I've seem them clearanced for the IRS, maybe it was overkill? Is the body lifted, spaced or otherwise raised off the pan at all?

Then again, it might look different with some weight on the back end?

Looking forward to another creation of yours. Good luck, and keep the photos coming!
_________________
Boston Bob E.
www.bimelliott.com www.deserterownersgroup.org

[jspbtown]

Hmmmm...the body looks like it is attached directly to some stock pans. You can see the enormous number of bolts and the stock seat tracks so I don't thinks its lifted. the body is very snuggly attached to the pan too.

The body looks virgin. No tail lights ever drilled, not headlights cut out, nothing. The side pods are different colors so I am assuming they were an after thought.

[jspbtown]

Got a few hours in the shop unexpectedly after I had to bring my 16 year old in for 9 stitches in his chin after a dunk attempt....

The body separated really easy. It looks like someone used 2" square tube to build a perimeter frame. It is very solid so that stays. It then looks like the welded in some stock pans. Those are going. Its got front adjusters & new ball joints.

The body is on my body dolly. Bob here is a picture of under the rear seat area. It had plenty of clearance for the control arms. Don't know why. You can even see in one of the chassis pics that the brake T was up high and the body didn't it that.

The side pods also came off real easy.

Alot of the stuff looked like it was real new when I bought it, but has unfortunately been out in the weather. Since I am replacing everything I thought I might offer some stuff for free if anyone wants to come and get it (Western Mass). Maybe your doing a budget build and you can use some stuff.

I have some chrome tie rods that are a little rusty but the boots are very clean and still soft. It looks like they were put on and the car never used. Some chrome polish might make them look very nice. They also seem to be a little heavier then the ones I have goten in the past. Polish them or maybe paint them.:

I also have a set of Bocar (I think thats what they said....) shocks that are in real nice shape. They are oil filled and work great.

Lastly I have a stock steering column from a 1973 (I think). No blinker switch but it has the key!

Oh...and what about those rims? They appear solid with some rust but might clean up. I know they are just stock VW rims but I thought I would offer before the scrap heap.

[jspbtown]

Work has been progressing on the Deserter slowly. Watching high school basketball is keeping me busy but that will end soon.

I am just about done with a pan rotisserre that I have wanted to build. I am doing a little more detail on this frame and being able to rotate it as I prime/paint it will be so much easier then doing one side and then having to flip it over.

I also ordered the Big Foot pedal extender kit so I can make it more fun for my size 12 feet.

I will try to get some pics of the pan on the rotisserre this weekend.

[jspbtown]

Finally got the rotisserre done so I can start detailing the pan. I had a gift card to harbor freight so the whole thing really didn't cost much and being able to rotate it while I paint it is going to be a huge help.

I added some extra steel, not really because it needed it but because I had it around. I understand that it won't really help....but it won't hurt anything. I am using it as more of a design element. There was no engineering of it but its going to look cool when its all painted and matching with the details I am going to do on the front and rear suspension.

The next step is to smooth the tunnel. Then its priming, painting the details, clearing, and then undercoating. It should look cool.

[jspbtown]

I am starting the fiberglass work on my Deserter and to be perfectly honest I am surprised at the lack of apparent quality on my body. Its a pretty much virgin body, with even the headlights not cut out yet.

In the upper rear left fender section I found a good size air pocket (about 2" around) between the gelcoat and the glass. It started out as a pin hole but as I explored it got bigger and bigger. In that same area there is, what appears to be, a large "run" of resin through the gelcoat. Its never been repaired so I am wondering if its a factory defect as well.

Also, in several sections the original gelcoat has a pebble like texture. It
sands smooth but it makes me wonder if this was from the manufacturer or if itis a result of sitting for so long? If I bought this body new I would be highly disappointed in that appearance.

Also, the hood is very very thin. I can make it deflect alot with just minimal pressure. I am adding several more layers of matt, because it really needs it. The sides are very flimsy as well. Is this common in all Deserter bodies? or did I get a "late friday afternoon...off for the weekend" body?

I must say that the overall thickness is significantly less than my old Manx or even my old yellow buggy.

[jspbtown]

I laid down several additional layers of glass on the underside of the hood. Its much better now. I also filled all of the defects in the body with glass.

I also fabricated a steering support bracket that goes from the left windshield mounting post to the right side. It follows the contour of the dash and adds some 3/16" steel plate to both windshield post mounting areas.

Next is to turn over the body, add some glass to the sides, and glass in some conduit.

[GS guy]

Hey Jeff,
How about a pic of the WS post supports and support bracket?
I'm also trying to figure out how to: 1) fit and install plates on the back-side of the hood for the WS posts, 2) connect both plates side to side underneath to support the steering column and tie both sides together, and 3) have these plates also bolt to my side bracing under the side pods - throuth the body.

From what I can tell, there is nothing square or parallel about those mounts!

Thanks,
Jeff
_________________
70's vintage Deserter GS buggy - undergoing transformation to Super GS!

[jspbtown]

I will try to get a picture.

Basically what I did was make a template for the section where the windshield posts mount. I then cut that template out of 3/16" steel plate. I clamped them onto the back side of the hood on each side and drilled the 3 mounting bolt holes for the posts through the glass and into the steel.

I bolted the plates in place, and then took some 1" square stock and cut a piece that spanned the center of the bottom of the dash and clamped it in place. I then made some relief cuts in some more 1" square and then bent it to fit the contour of the little dash curves. I welded everything up. No I have a brace that goes across the bottom of the dash.

The rest of the plan will include glassing a small lip onto the bottom of the dash to cover the steel and I will rivet that lip onto the support.

Before I do that I will put the hood on and see what I need to do to attach the hood brace to the body itself.

Pictures on Sunday maybe. Play-off game in hoop tomorrow and prom on saturday will keep me busy.

[jspbtown]

Jeff....pictures as requested:

Since those picture were taken I added a fiberglass lip from the bottom of the dash that covers the square tube. The plan is to add some rivets to secure the bottom of the dash to the support.

The steering column with either go through the dash on top of the support or be held under it. It will depend on how the column fits with the seats.

[GS guy]

Thanks for the pics Jeff. I'd been playing around with various ideas of how to do that cross brace - your idea looks good!

You'll probably find the steering column does need to come up through the dash to get the stering wheel where it needs to be - and that's with the seats mounted as low as you can get them. All the GTs and GSs I've seen are put together this way, including mine. Just not a whole lot of room on these cars between the floor and top of dash. The typical installaton looks to be anywhere from flush with the dash bottom (and up into the dash) to slightly above the bottom - as in this original build GS photo:

I looked again at Alex's fantastic GT build - relavent here as he is over 6', and found this pic from my Volksvair 2007 collection - another data point you may be able to use: (plus lots of nice details on this car to ponder!)

Jeff
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70's vintage Deserter GS buggy - undergoing transformation to Super GS!

[jspbtown]

Well I finally found the ultimate sanding motivator.......a visiting mother-in-law.

Now before you all start telling me how wonderful your mother-in-laws are here is the scoop.

She really likes to take my afternoon newspaper, sit in my big old recliner, watch Dance Moms on my big screen TV and fall asleep in the chair. So I let her. I could try to pry the remote out of her hand while she snores away, but its only for a few days.

I go the whole exterior of the body, the hood, and 1 side pod sanded tonight.

[jspbtown]

laid down my final coat of G2 (thinned a little so it laid very flat). Now just a 600 grit scuffing and its paint time.

Looks like Cobalt Blue metallic.

[didget69]