My H6 Install (EZ30)

[insyncro]

I have the DisplayLINK module, digital is the way to go

[purplepeopleeater]

On the RPM issue? Ohhh...that.

the needle on my tach keeps getting knocked loose, I have my gauges set to sweep when you turn the key on (yep super cool ricey feature of the link ecu) I'm going to put a dab of paint on the end of the needle maybe that will keep it from coming loose.


other then that, its been worry free...i'm switching to synthetic oil here in another 500 miles so I can skip a few more miles between oil changes.

we have put about 3200 miles on it since install, love it.

I'd probably love a TDI more, who wants to trade engine swaps?

[IdahoDoug]

Updates? I'm going through withdrawals...

DougM
_________________
1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[purplepeopleeater]

I think it is, I am having some high idle issues when the engine gets really warm (fully loaded, pushing it up a pass)...it will go from 800 rpms to 1500

But I'm not entirely sure thats related to the link ECU, I haven't had the chance yet to hook the laptop up and see whats going on...Could be something in the ECU settings that I monkied with.

[xoo00oox]

Purple-
Do you feel that Link ECU is smooth at all driving conditions as the original Subaru one would be? Does it run perfect in all temps and loads?

Andrew-

[derekdrew]

I need help determining how to install a VDO oil pressure sender and VDO oil temperature sender onto my 2004 EZ30D H6 3.0L engine from a Subaru Outback Legacy and I need to determine what my options are for install location of the sender.... what sender locations would be more desirable, and which would be less desirable for best accuracy. I am happy to drill and tap holes, or change hole sizes. Also, I need to hear a little about whether to tie in to the existing subaru sender(s) that may exist already installed for the engine. I can't mount the senders on the oil pan because they would get scraped off with the sort of driving I do, so I am wondering if I should just drill sideways into the engine just above the oil pan for the temperature sender. The "warning contact point" for VDO senders is about 7 to 8psi, which is much higher than the 3ish PSI I heard subaru uses in their own senders. I am wondering if this would be fine for me to have the VDO take over the job of the warning contact sender, or whether with 7 or 8psi I would be subject to too many false alarms. My options for thread size for the sender are:

My options for thread size for the oil pressure sender are:

1/8-27NPT (most common)
1/4-18 NPT
M10x1
M12x1.5
M14x1.5
3/8-18NPT (via adapter)
1/4-14NPT (via adapter)

The gauge I have goes to 80psi. Would this be OK for this engine, or might I need something higher, like 100psi, or 150psi.

---------------------------------------

My options for thread size for the oil temperature sender are:

1/8-27NPT (most common)
1/2-14NPT
M10x1.5
1/4-18NPT (via adapter)
3/8-18NPT (via adapter)

I can have a warning buzzer or light at 250F if I want too.

[purplepeopleeater]

I just saw this, sorry I didn't answer the question, the spacer only moves the hot/cold fittings towards the rear of the engine, rather then having the one line run around the front right next to the muffler and also in a very bad area for a van, its moved all the adapter does is move it to the rear its still getting water before the thermostat.

I need to work on moving the water ports to the rear on the oil cooler adapter too, but its made with a material that I hate working with and seem to never get leak free.

I also made new hard lines that connect to it, one leading back to the top like the factory one and one that snakes behind the oil pan and between the flywheel/engine mount, it worked out perfect.

[purplepeopleeater]

Here are a few more pictures,

Here's a shot of the beast, I used some epoxy primer then shot it with blitz black (this stuff is tougher then poweder coating when done right)

My helper

Wiring almost complete

All tucked in the engine bay,

Under shot, the engine mount needs some adjustment I think...The engine could sit a little further up and I could gain a little clearance, I also am going to find a way to modify the coolant line leading from the oil cooler, it needs to be on the back side.

Here's the other side, I put some header tape around the coolant hoses...doesn't look realt pretty but after running it hard I can touch it still

After the first test drive I had a fuel line pop off, it was after I shut it down went inside with the family to eat dinner and when we went to start it stumbled then I smelled gas, I guess this was the issue

Gates hose is really crappy, it was brand new and meant to FI systems. I used a correct band OE style clamp too, I plan on further researching some new source for fuel line, I've been using the BMW stuff and never had issues yet, I gotta change fuel lines on 3 of my vans in a month or so.

[Vanagon Nut]

Dude.

Great pics, text and pen pointing. Not to mention nice looking QC.

All the best on your swap and thanks from the "Royal We" for taking time to post details.

Neil.


Link

_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[shadetreetim]

Nice job with the conversion and the thread. Gonna be interesting following your progress. That motor looks good.
_________________
Tim Potts

Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!


'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5

[levi]

So KEP adapter plate, and what clutch, and does it feel like it's enough for the torque?

I hope you'll give us your impression of the difference in gas consumption from ej25 to the 3.0 once you've run a couple tank fulls too.


Awesome!
I thought you said you were a wiring dummy? Looking wizardly enough to me.


_________________
One of these days I'm gonna settle down,
but till I do I won't be hangin round.
Going down that long lonesome highway,
gonna see life my way

https://youtu.be/cSrL0BXsO40

[purplepeopleeater]

[wontfalia]

SHOTGUN!!

Seriously. This is impressive. You make the install look and sound easy. And that engine looks brand spanking new. Is the adapter plate the same from your 2.5? I think I'll buy a lottery ticket this week.

Wontfalia
_________________
Don't break the law when you're breaking the law

[Turk.380]

Awesome! Thanks for the write-up. I just purchased the same kit but for the earlier EZ30D (non drive-by-wire) engine and will be doing this conversion over the winter.

Very nice to see what I'll be in for in a few months. Currently I'm still in the tear-down phase. So far only posting to our local forum:
http://www.aircooledmissouri.com/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=5145
_________________
Brian W
St. Louis, MO
'64 SO-33 Hatch Top Westy | '87 Syncro Westy: Subaru EZ30D powered | 2002 VW Winnebago Vista

[syncrogreg]

Hi,

Good job! it's not easy to deal with all the mess the factory engine has.

Why do you relocate the water fittings? they are located before the thermostat to give you hot air in cold morning within a minute. The spacer that has the new fitting is located in the cold water side or the warm water erea? I don't get the point yet.

Thanks

GSB
_________________
conversions: www.boxeer.com Common rail TDI and NOW PDK transmissions!!

travel pictures:
http://instagram.com/crepeattack/

- the Pastis build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=434656&highlight=subaru+diesel

[scobax]

Thanks for your extremely thorough write-up, Purplepeopleeater! This is exactly the sort of thing that makes this public forum such a valuable asset to the greater Vanagon enthusiast community. It's all about an exchange of ideas, open source Vanagon hacking, if you will.

I have had a line on a half a dozen of these engines/harnesses, etc. for more than a year, but I was hesitant to move on one due to the lack of a comprehensive build thread. You deserve a big THANK YOU for taking the time to put together such a clear and comprehensive thread.

Can't wait to see the rest of your pics!
_________________
87 Syncro Westy w/ Suby 2.5
RIP: 2.1 WBX. You were a good dog 'ol feller

“The word adventure has gotten overused. For me, when everything goes wrong, that's when adventure starts” -Yvon Chouinard

"It's not expensive, its priceless" -Unknown

[Farfrumwork]

WOW
Nice work peopleeater.

Great photos and detail.

I've driven a EG33 powered syncro, which was very smooth and torquey, but I bet the more modern 3.0l is even more so.

-Chad
_________________
sold -> '85 Wolfsburg Syncro / 'Built' DOHC EJ25 (a great machine!)
'07 Legacy spec.B, road tuned stgII
'17 4x4 Sprinter, stone grey, SMB pop-top, on 33"s

"Blood stains, speed kills - Fast cars, cheap thrills - Rich girls, fine wine - I've lost my sense, I've lost control, I've lost my mind"

[ALIKA T3]

Very nice pictures and write up

I didn't know this H6TL link,thank you
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[danfromsyr]

*Fixed link so I could see pic

[Alaric.H]

Tapered NPT threads and a little teflon tape.