Can I re-use existing rings....it keeps getting worse

[blue77bay]

unbelievable, are you gunna name n shame so others don't finish up the same??
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I like hammers. Lots of hammers. Hammers and me go way back.
A large hammer collection is like an instant problem solver
Mark tucker wrote:,wack off as needed

[mark tucker]

so your in nastycar country,hmm, might just want to send it offt to someone,the $75 isant bad if it,s done corectly,I was quoted $100-120 .as for the polishing you can do it your self easely & if you have a dial indacator you can check runout easly.breakleen &good blow gun (no not the ones with the poisen darts)can be your good firend when kleening stuff,(wally world still has good breakleen under thier brand and it,s cheep, so get a lot)just cut strips of 600 wet and rap it around the journell and rap a ahoestring around it 2 times and start pulling to spin the 600 around with some lube,(mineral sperits,or somethen, wd is ok but must be totaly washed off real good, then breakleen it real good, wash with soap&hot watter real good then breakleen again to see if you get any thing out of any gallys or holes, then blow dry & bag.you c=an get a mic off flebay cheep.

[RockCrusher]

Line bore is $65 here. really a shame about the crank. I spend an inordinate amount of time cleaning the crank with carb cleaner and a fine engine brush. Why people short cut that is beyond me. Where does the crap go? Right to the rod bearings....Sheesh!
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[modok]

Cleaning the crank, brushing the passages, and putting a spraybottle dusting of marvel oil (to prevent rust) is common procedure here after polishing.
makes is smell good too

Many of the OLD manuals say to dunk the whole piston in a bucket of motor oil before installing. They do say that. What a mess!

[fivelugshortaxle]

thought pistons were supposed to be installed dry?
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Good things come to those who wait.
2332 with lots of goodies....
Rotating assembly balanced by Brothers VW
4340 84mm crank
AA 94mm p&c' s
Total seal 2nd ring, rest are Grants
5.5 h beams
Magnum straight cuts
Steve Long XR310 on a 106
CB 1.4 rockers
CB Magnaspark 2 distributor
NGK D7ea plugs
A1 lowdown 1 3/4 with single muffler
Dellorto 48's with 40 venturies
Kennedy Stage 2 with Daiken disc

[modok]

The rings and cylinders must have at least a bit of light oil on them to prevent rust, so they are never really "dry". Dry and the will become rusty crusty rather quickly.

Another fine use for that marvel mystery oil

[mxracer]

Mark, I do have mics, calipers etc. Even have a small lathe and mill. I'm just a hobby machinist though. I thought about checking run out on the lathe.
I just don't have a good set of v-blocks to check run out on.

Usually keep a case of brake cleaner around too.

As for the polish I'd really like to get everything polished to micro. I might take a crack at it to see how I do.

Thanks again for all the help and advise, to everyone.

Gonna take the case to get line bored today I think.

[Altema]

[Altema]

PS: If you don't have V blocks, you can do a quick crank runout check by dropping the crank into a case half with proper bearing on the ends only.

[mark tucker]

[mxracer]

Well crank is off to be reground. I took it over the machine shop just to have him take a look. He mic'ed it and the split bearing journal had 2 groves that were about .005 deep.

It just keeps getting better.

Also dropped the case off for line boring this morning. Should pick it up tomorrow then on to clean-up.

Also called Scat this morning to ask about the ARP rod bolts specs for the 2000 bolts in the rods. The guy's first answer when I asked for the part number for the bolts so I could get the stretch specs was that they don't give out stretch specs cause "most people don't know how to stretch bolts properly". Which I can understand but I wanted to say WTF, I'm asking for part numbers so I can get the stretch specs instead of just torque and you are saying no? He finally gave what seemed to be a guess on the stretch specs. Told me 50ft/lbs and not over .0058 stretch. Which seems kinda high for 3/8, and does not match up with any of the ARP specs I could find. Guess I'll just torque to 40 and then use the stretch gauge to get .0055. Wish I still had the paperwork that got thrown out before I even saw it.

I'm also going to do the full flow this time. Been reading on the Type 3 forum and gathering what I need to do it on a Type 3. Little bit more of a pain it seems but seems to work out nice. I bought the GB Type 3 cover.
Question here...since I'm doing full flow would I get accurate readings from a temp sender if I put it inline with one of the oil lines? I have the 1/8" sender now that was on a tee with the pressure sender(and useless). If I can use that inline (tee it off the line) with the full flow hoses I'd like to.

I guess I should change the title of this thread to "Engine RE-build", It's a ground up build for sure. Only thing I don't have to do is make decisions on which crank, rods etc.

[Dangermouse]

[mxracer]

Ahh... sweet thanks.

[mark tucker]

shopuld of posted crank pics ,it probably did not need cutting, and cutting usualy looses the nitriding depending on how it was done,if it was done. a groove dont hurt squat,my scat crank is groved factory. I dont trust most shops to do it right..good luck. add the sender to the sump, either the extra sump or just tap the aera where the type 3 dip stick went.or you can tap the filter adaptor,I would not add any extra fittings as this is just an extra weight on the hose&some place fer somethen to go rong(& possiably a restriction depending on the fittings)

[mxracer]

Here's the one I did take and post of the split bearing journal. It was the worst and the one he said he thought would cause it to need to be reground. Also noticed on the case that the bearing numbers were already imprinted into the case, again only after 2K miles.

I guess the good news is this shop isn't the one doing it, it's sent out to a VW and Porsche shop a few miles away. So hopefully that shop will make the final call.

Not sure about the nitride. CB doesn't list it as such, just micro polished.
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1185

I ended up buying the Type 3 Gene Berg full flow kit luckily they hadn't shipped just the cover out yet. I'll check out the filter housing they send and either tap the hosing like you guys suggested or follow your advice Mark and tap somewhere else.

][/url]

[mxracer]

[VIN]

the spec. that came with my CB rods/ARP 2000s is 29 ft lbs.
didnt list stretch though
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[mxracer]

[VIN]

they are the CB super race rods, H beams.

edit: mine are 5/16", you got 3/8"...disregard.
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[modok]

The empi torque spec sounds correct to me (or close enough)

CB's "in and out" pump will fit too(or can be made to fit, with a little improvisation) and works fine for mild apps
You crank would like you to install it, if you don't do the fancy tapping thing

I say "screw you china crank, eat dirt and die "

just kidding