Canopy lifter repair?

[RatCamper]

Today I had the top up on my bay because I was assembling my son's Christmas present in there. The best tricycle ever! Anyway I just went out there to put the top back down for the night and noticed one side was sagging a little. I pushed it up to test what was going on. Saggy spring I think. Anyway the other side makes a loud pop and the top goes a bit wobbly.
I went to look and the pivot pin in the middle of the scissor part has snapped. judging by the rust I'd say it's a fatigue failure which has been many years coming.

What I want to know is whether knocking / drilling out the pin and replacing it with something like a bolt and nylock nut is a viable option. I just looked up how much these stupid things cost and they start at about $100 and it gets worse from there which is a big shame because the caravan is missing two (supposed to have six).

On the bright side I found where to get some nice hardware. On the dark side however I can't really pay over $200 for a matched pair of lifters.

Another good point was a reminder of why sticking with the pop top instead of a high top was a good move. It was a warm day (about 35*C) and with the top up and canvas flaps open it was nice and cool in the shade. IIRC it's still bearable on a hot day too.

Back to the point. Is replacing the pivot pin with a bolt feasible?
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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.

[busdaddy]

Since your camper isn't like anything we encounter here you'll have to post some pics. If it's like the rivet in the middle of the X on a Riviera or Westfalia then a good quality bolt will work, even better if it's shouldered or has a non threaded area on the shank for a bearing surface.
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[werksberg]

As Busdaddy has stated and also putting in a metal sleeve in 1x side so bolt can pivot on it better too.
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[RatCamper]

Oh damnit. I thought I had fixed it. Sometimes lucid dreaming + real world scenario can really work against a person.

I'll try to take a photo a bit later. There's an inherent problem with doing that. My son's present is in there right now because I didn't have time to figure out where I can actually hide it for the next few days after assembling it yesterday.

I'm not sure the drilling out to fit a sleeve (where would I get such a thing anyway?) would be the greatest idea in this situation. It looks like if I can get the pin out an M6 bolt might fit. taking extra metal away might weaken the bars a little. I'll try to take a photo shortly.
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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.

[RatCamper]

I took a photo. The ammeter is there for a rough size reference because when other people use things like a metal ruler and don't put it back, it goes missing

it looks like the pin may be closer to M8. Can't say for sure right now. Not at all sure where it is supposed to pivot as both sides look pressed in.

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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.

[busdaddy]

Looks like a job for a bolt or clevis pin as long as there's room for the head between the X and the frame on the body or top (assuming there's a frame or angle bracket) when it's down.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[RatCamper]

I did it yesterday. Didn't have a chance to respond beforehand.

pressed out the other half of the pin using a flare tool. The side shown didn't work so I had to drill it out.

It was a 1/4" hole so I got a 1/4" bolt and nylock. The bolt was a shade too short so I flipped the nylock. I will never recommend doing that to anyone. I didn't feel like negotiating pre-Xmas rush again just to get a bolt so it'll do for the next couple of weeks.

This was a learning experience. not so much the drilling and putting in a bolt, but the weird forces which the lifters exert, especially when a pin detaches is a real eye opener. I'll attempt to explain.

Before that pin gave way with a clunk, I noticed the LF corner of the top was sagging a little It broke when I pushed it back up. Now I have replaced the pin the LF corner no longer sags. Bear in mind the broken side was the right. The right currently feels a lot stiffer then the left. I'm not sure if it's the torque on the nut or some weakness in the left assembly because if the left is weak it may be putting a longitudinal (in relation to the bus) shear loading on the right side pin.

When I pulled down the top the repaired side went down just about all the way just fine. Just before bottom there was a big clunk and it went the rest of the way. Something is hitting something possibly and I'll have to investigate. Either that or the bolt broke.

Here's a couple of pictures I took so you can get a better idea of how the whole thing is mounted. My bay has three of them. One each side, a little further forward than centre and one at the back.

You would have noticed the white plastic things are broken. They have finally all given way unfortunately. they push the canvas inward when the top is pulled down. As yet I haven't figured out what to replace them with. I would love any suggestions on the matter.
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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.