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Powerflex gearbox bushings?
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Christopher Schimke
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 1:39 pm    Post subject: Powerflex gearbox bushings? Reply with quote

Please read the performance results at the end.

Powerflex is now offering urethane bushings for both the 1.9 type mounts and the diesel, automatic and 2.1 type mounts. When I first received these mounts, I was worried that the average home mechanic may have trouble installing them due to the need to press out the old bushing. I set out to figure the absolute minimum tools required to do the job. I was able to remove the old bushing using nothing more than a vice, a large hammer and two sizes of cold chisels.

All of the parts for the entire job include:
Jack
Jackstands (although I was able to remove and install the mount from the gearbox without having to raise the vehicle, but not everyone will be so lucky.
13mm socket with ratchet and short extension
Two 17mm wrenches (or socket and ratchet)
Large hammer
Medium to large sized vice
5/16" and 5/8" cold chisels (other sizes could be used, but that's what worked for me).

I'm not going to show or explain how to remove and install the mount from the van because it's so easy. Just make sure that you secure the vehicle and gearbox properly prior to the mount removal.

I tried a few different methods, but what ended up working best for me was to use the small chisel to get between the metal on the bushing and the outer bushing housing. I pounded the small chisel all the way through until it came out the other side. Then I removed that and used the larger chisel to do the same thing. The procedure collapsed the metal bushing surround which allow me to simply pound the bushing out of the housing with a hammer. The entire process took only a ˝ hour, including removal and installation in the van.

If you have access to a press and the correct sized dies to press the bushing out, that would be best, but the procedure that I showed here does work.

Here are some pictures of the method and the bushing:

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I really like how these bushings made shifting a bit easier (not as much movement of the gearbox when letting the clutch out resulting in smoother shifts) and the on/off throttle movement of the gearbox that is present with the original type bushings was greatly reduced resulting in much smoother on/off throttle transitions. I also used to have a fair amount of clutch chatter that seems to be gone as well (time will tell if it comes back). So that's the good news!
The bad news is that these bushings do impart a small amount of additional noise into the cabin. I notice it mostly when at idle, but its still there a bit during steady state cruising. I don't notice it all during acceleration or deceleration. Powerflex is working on ways to reduce the noise transfer, but I'm not sure where they are at with that right now. The noise transfer isn't so bad that I am going to remove mine. For me, the benefits outweigh the negatives at this point.

*EDIT*

I just wanted to add that my van has a stock 1.9 in it that isn't the smoothest running engine. I am fairly certain that all of the different engines, (Subaru, Ford, etc.) will all have a different level of noise/vibration transfer into the cabin. While I can't prove this, the radical differences in engine design and harmonics would suggest it.
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will they do the syncro transmission bushings too? That would be cool Cool

I just bought original VW ones,and they're actually less tall than the old ones Mad
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Christopher Schimke
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, Syncro gearbox bushings would be cool. I don't know what the plans are there though.
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BillM
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am waiting patiently for radius rod bushings. I would also love to see (while we're dreaming) the upper control arm bushings offered in a harder compound. I like them now but think they could be just a little bit better.
My favorite part of the powerflex bushings is being able to pull them apart and service them with a clean up/regrease.
I have been wanting to upgrade my tranny mount for awhile. I wonder how many people still have an oem and if the bushings will fit the aftermarket mount many vendors offer. I never compared them side by side before.
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seanjenn
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome, and perfect timing. My tranny mount is getting soft so this is great.
When I first got my van, the mount was pretty hosed. A buddy of mine had an extra that he gave me. The mount he gave me came off of an air-cooled Vanagon and the round part of the mount(where the rubber is) is larger, diameter-wise, than the OEM mount I took off of the van.

It'd be cool to keep the "bigger" mount, so do you know if they are making bushings for the air-cooled tranny mounts?
I never would have thought there would be two different mounts for a 4spd Vanagon, air-cooled or not. It's the same 4spd isn't it?
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rubber mount for a rabbit diesel IIRC is the same diameter but it's made of harder rubber. I tried it out for a while but the vibration was annoying.

Now I use a special engine damper off a Buick that I welded a bracket in parallel to the stock mount. This damps out the bounce of the stock mount without relaying any more vibrations.

Those bushings look pretty nice, if I didn't have my setup I'd give them a shot.
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scobax
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for another useful writeup Chris!

Here's an additional technique that may help make removing the old mount a little easier. It's the same method for removing the pulley side motor mount on the old diesel rabbits which uses a very similar pressed in mount.

Take your hacksaw apart and put the blade through one of the holes in the rubber part of the mount with the teeth facing the metal sleeve portion of the mount. If your mount doesn't have holes clear through, you can always drill one.

Reconnect the blade to your saw "backwards", that is teeth "in" towards the saw frame and gently cut through the metal sleeve part of the old mount being careful not to go too far through and into the housing. In most cases you don't actually have to cut all the way through, once you have cut most of the way through the sleeve they tend to become much more agreeable. Take your hacksaw out and proceed with the chisel as Chris demonstrates above.

This method helps take some of the tension off of the old mount and will make it a bit easier to remove the old mount and lessens the possibility of damaging the housing or knocking it out of round.

These poly mounts will make this job a whole lot easier now that you don't have to press the new ones back in like a stock mount. That can be a bit tricky.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Chris, I really appreciate your candid assessment of the noise/vibration increase from the new stiffer bushing. Some of us older farts are more interested in quietness these days than we used to be! Wink

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Christopher Schimke
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scobax,

Excellent addition to the removal technique, thanks!


seanjenn wrote:


It'd be cool to keep the "bigger" mount, so do you know if they are making bushings for the air-cooled tranny mounts?
I never would have thought there would be two different mounts for a 4spd Vanagon, air-cooled or not. It's the same 4spd isn't it?



The larger version has a diameter of 74mm and the smaller version is 59mm. If you want to measure your mount, that might give us some insight.


Quote:
Hey Chris, I really appreciate your candid assessment of the noise/vibration increase from the new stiffer bushing. Some of us older farts are more interested in quietness these days than we used to be!



Yeah, I'm kind of with you on this one. When I installed this mount, it reminded me that when I was much younger, I ran my Beetle on the street with urethane rear mounts and a solid front gearbox mount and thought nothing of it. That would not fly today!


So after driving with this mount a bit more, I am waffling about whether I will keep installed or not. The vibrations aren't bad at all, but the noise transfer is worse that I originally thought. It's somewhat transitional and depends on the road surface, RPM, etc. What makes this decision tough is that the driving performance is so much better. I'm just not sure it's worth the trade off though. I think that I may try drilling some holes in mine in an effort to squelch the noise.

Now keep in mind that mine is the smaller of the two mounts which makes the mount more solid than the larger version. I have shipped out one of the larger units to a guy that has a turbo Zetec. It will be interesting the hear his take on the noise/vibration issue.
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Christopher Schimke
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ultimately, after a few months of evaluating things, I decided to remove the solid urethane forward bushing and replace it with a new aftermarket rubber mount (I believe it is an FEQ brand). There was just too much NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) for my liking. The aftermarket mount decreased the unwanted NVH compared to the solid urethane mount, but at the cost allowing the nose of the gearbox to move up and down too much, but also allowing the engine/gearbox to move forward/backward by quite a lot. In addition, after having the aftermarket mount in place for a few months, it has already split about 50% of the way through between the bridge and the outer shell.

Luckily, Powerflex has worked through a new design that supposedly reduced the NVH significantly over their original solid version. I installed one of these updated units a few months ago and I'm am pretty happy with it. Compared to the aftermarket rubber version, I noticed absolutely zero increase in NVH with this new Powerflex design. There is still a small amount of engine/gearbox movement, but it is quite a bit less than with the aftermarket rubber mount and MUCH less that the original OE mount. This new version will be staying in my van long term.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

having just fitted one of your shift rod repair kits, i now can feel the gearbox moving about a lot

ps, the shift rod repair kits are great, it's like driving a new lucy again

thank you Cool
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 2:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great review.

Any input on how to make sure to get the new bushings?
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had one of the original style Powerflex bushings setting on my shelf for over a year now as I wondered how bad the NVH really was. I finally decided I needed to just put it on and find out, figuring I could always drill a few holes in it if I needed to. The install went fairly quickly using the chisel method.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


My first impression pulling out of the driveway was, WOW, why did I wait so long. The shifter was rock steady as I got on and off the gas. The shifting was now crisp, and a lot smoother than before.


And my reality is, if there is an increase in noise, vibration, or harshness, I can't quantify it. I paid attention and listened closely through a range of speeds. Although I do have a 2.1 Carat interior, which is pretty quiet overall.


Looking at the new design it seems they have addressed the NVH issue, for those it is an issue. I would rank this bushing as one of the top upgrades I've done for driving enjoyment.
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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With a few more miles on the Trans Bushing I have noticed some vibrations at certain road conditions tied with speed/RPM range. It hasn't been a deal breaker though. The solid feel of the shifter all the time more than makes up for the occasional vibration. I wouldn't trade it for the original bushing back, that's for sure. And even knowing the newly designed bushing addresses this problem, I still don't see myself changing it. Maybe if I had no other items on my wish list...
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TP I have the same solid Powerflex bushing and my experience is exactly
as yours. I was going try and drill a couple holes in it though just to see
if it will make a difference in the amount of transferred NVH. Instead I
am going to order the newer version and see how I like it first. Like you
said though the improved feel is so nice that its made the noise/vibration
transfer almost worth it.
I'll order a new one up and use the same app on my iPhone that Jon
used in Betty to post up the difference.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Christopher Schimke wrote:

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Christopher how are the spacers working? Looks about like what Tim tried and the angle didn't work.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been running mine for about six weeks or so and it's great. 85 westy with svx and it is way quieter now with the power flex. Seems to shift better also. install was very easy but I did have a extra trans mount. In fact installing my trailing arm bushings today. Now all my bushings are power flex. Love them.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been running mine for about six weeks or so and it's great. 85 westy with svx and it is way quieter now with the power flex. Seems to shift better also. install was very easy but I did have a extra trans mount. In fact installing my trailing arm bushings today. Now all my bushings are power flex. Love them.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got mine in last week. I had a worn out 1.9 mount that was banging around with the 2.5 subaru. Its a huge improvement for engine movement and solid shifting.

Here is a pic for size comparison.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the old bushing removed. As per Chris's advice I cut it with a hack saw and then used a punch to bend a corner to relieve tention then tapped the whole thing out with a hammer.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't get it...it looks like you need to cut off the old tube that the bush fits in and weld on a much larger tube for the new one. what am I missing ?
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