Author |
Message |
Malokin Martin Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2007 Posts: 3099 Location: E-burg
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 4:56 pm Post subject: Sheared off bleeder valve. Now what? |
|
|
Stupid stupid stupid. Lower bleeder valve sheared off during brake bleed. I WAS CAREFUL... Just not careful enough. It was the last one and was stuck. Slow pressure with the wrench and it sheared off. It did not turn and is not leaking. It broke flush with the caliper.
Is the whole caliper f***ed? Do folks have a general price tag on something like this?
I'm taking it in on Monday. Just wanted to know what I'm in for.
1972 bus.
Front right (passenger)
Last edited by Malokin Martin on Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:02 pm; edited 2 times in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Malokin Martin Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2007 Posts: 3099 Location: E-burg
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 4:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I am just kicking myself for this. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
birddog1148 Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2005 Posts: 921 Location: Sandusky Ohio at my Brewery playing with cars.
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:08 pm Post subject: |
|
|
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
Not to bad here _________________ '69 Baja, Crusty 62 bug
I Got Your Jeep Thing! Now It Hurts When I pee.
Cigarettes are like squirrels, they are both harmless until you put one in your mouth and light it on fire. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Malokin Martin Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2007 Posts: 3099 Location: E-burg
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:13 pm Post subject: |
|
|
That just bumped me to a Main page of a catalog. The valve is still in tight. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
birddog1148 Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2005 Posts: 921 Location: Sandusky Ohio at my Brewery playing with cars.
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
RAYBESTOS Part # FRC3075 Friction Ready - Pads Not Included, Remanufactured; Professional Grade; Bore Size=2.12" Inlet Thread=M10X1 Bleeder Thread=M7X1
ATE Brake System; Front Right
$52.79 $10.00 $62.79
Add Part
RAYBESTOS Part # FRC3076 Friction Ready - Pads Not Included, Remanufactured; Professional Grade; Bore Size=2.12" Inlet Thread=M10X1 Bleeder Thread=M7X1
ATE Brake System; Front Left
$52.79 $10.00 $62.79
Add Part
CENTRIC Part # 14133108 Reman; Premium Semi-Loaded Caliper
Fr 8/72 - To 12/72; Girling; Front Left
$33.79 $30.00 $63.79
Add Part
CENTRIC Part # 14133107 Reman; Premium Semi-Loaded Caliper
Fr 8/72 - To 12/72; Girling; Front Right
$33.79 $30.00 $63.79
Add Part
CENTRIC Part # 14133110 Reman; Premium Semi-Loaded Caliper
ATE; Fr 8/72 - To 12/72; Front Left
$41.79 $35.00 $76.79
Add Part
CENTRIC Part # 14133109 Reman; Premium Semi-Loaded Caliper
ATE; Fr 8/72 - To 12/72; Front Right
$41.79 $35.00 $76.79
Add Part
NASTRA Part # 12453 Semi-Loaded; Reman
Front; ATE; Left (Only 1 Remaining)
$45.79 $37.00 $82.79
Add Part
Here are some of them, more if you look them up. Prices are price, core, total _________________ '69 Baja, Crusty 62 bug
I Got Your Jeep Thing! Now It Hurts When I pee.
Cigarettes are like squirrels, they are both harmless until you put one in your mouth and light it on fire. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Alex6373 Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2007 Posts: 882 Location: Vancouver Island,B.C.
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Do a google search for a easy out and it should remove it
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Malokin Martin Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2007 Posts: 3099 Location: E-burg
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:59 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Bird: so I'm hearing that it's a new caliper if they can't back it out? It seems like some adds say 68-72, some say 71-72 and some say 73-80. Who is correct? I'd like to source the parts myself if they're doing a replacement. Additionally should I get 2 to do it "right"?
What about here?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1235831
Auto: that's pretty neat there. I don't know if they make a tap small enough though. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
birddog1148 Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2005 Posts: 921 Location: Sandusky Ohio at my Brewery playing with cars.
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:07 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You can always try the easy out and if it works great. Rock Auto was a track sponsor at a track I used to race at and they carry a LOT of stuff. If I was going to replace one I would probobly do both sides.
I am operating under the thought that you are going to replace the calliper yourself if you cant get the bleader out. _________________ '69 Baja, Crusty 62 bug
I Got Your Jeep Thing! Now It Hurts When I pee.
Cigarettes are like squirrels, they are both harmless until you put one in your mouth and light it on fire. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Malokin Martin Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2007 Posts: 3099 Location: E-burg
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I'm thinking I may bunt this one before I do more damage. Requires a bit more time, a shop (out of the rain/snow) and a special spreader for the caliper which I don't have. Hopefully they can back it out.
If I do need new ones: it Appears that the calipers are 71-72 only? Can someone confirm?
Thanks for the great feedback! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51145 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Malokin Martin wrote: |
it Appears that the calipers are 71-72 only? |
Yes,
There's also bleeder repair kits available at most FLAPS, you drill it out and tap for 1/8" pipe thread and screw in the new valve unit. If it broke off you likely aren't going to get far with an EZ out. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
GusC2it Samba Member
Joined: June 23, 2005 Posts: 1376 Location: Orlando, Florida, USA
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:12 pm Post subject: |
|
|
If yours has a bleeder on the top and bottom, you're in luck! Just swap the right and left caliber, and you'll have a bleeder on the top again!
wait a minuet! You said bottom bleeder. You can't bleed from the bottom one. It's probably never been opeded. Thats why it sheared off!! _________________ 75 type 2 http://gusc1.tripod.com/1975vwtype2
Old vices have now been upgraded to bad habits.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-Wild-Weekend-2011-St-Pete-Fl/197064760336111
Last edited by GusC2it on Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:14 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Malokin Martin Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2007 Posts: 3099 Location: E-burg
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:14 pm Post subject: |
|
|
busdaddy wrote: |
Malokin Martin wrote: |
it Appears that the calipers are 71-72 only? |
Yes,
There's also bleeder repair kits available at most FLAPS, you drill it out and tap for 1/8" pipe thread and screw in the new valve unit. If it broke off you likely aren't going to get far with an EZ out. |
Done and done. You make it sound so easy that I may just try it haha. Would this let me keep the 7mm head? Or would I have to go bigger? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
GusC2it Samba Member
Joined: June 23, 2005 Posts: 1376 Location: Orlando, Florida, USA
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Joey Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2005 Posts: 5366 Location: Nova Scotia - Canada
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
GusC2it wrote: |
If yours has a bleeder on the top and bottom, you're in luck! Just swap the right and left caliber, and you'll have a bleeder on the top again! |
You can't do that. They are left and right specific because of the mounting holes.
I always do the bleeding from the top bleeder so I wouldn't be too concerned about it. I think the bottom is more for draining not bleeding. _________________ Joey
‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Malokin Martin Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2007 Posts: 3099 Location: E-burg
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Joey wrote: |
GusC2it wrote: |
If yours has a bleeder on the top and bottom, you're in luck! Just swap the right and left caliber, and you'll have a bleeder on the top again! |
You can't do that. They are left and right specific because of the mounting holes.
I always do the bleeding from the top bleeder so I wouldn't be too concerned about it. I think the bottom is more for draining not bleeding. |
I thought that was for 73-79?
Karl wrote: |
If it is 73 and later, you CANNOT put the wrong caliper on the wrong side.
One bolt is 12mm and the other is 14mm. |
Either way, I may just get crazy and attempt the drilling and tapping deal. Great ideas all around. Thanks again for the posts. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
GusC2it Samba Member
Joined: June 23, 2005 Posts: 1376 Location: Orlando, Florida, USA
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Joey Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2005 Posts: 5366 Location: Nova Scotia - Canada
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:11 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Right.... it's a '72. _________________ Joey
‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
most likely if it was tight enough to snap it will never come out without damaging the seat so you will have to repair or replace it. I would not waste the time stressing over it. As suggested you can try to bleed with the other screw. Look - you can even take the disc off or use an old one, stick the caliper on it and have someone hold it upside down and bleed at the same time then stick it on. It doesn't have to be on the actual disk to bleed it - all you need do is hold the pistons in with a spare diskand the pads. In the meantime watch for a good used one and replace the whole caliper. You can try various extractors but I think you will only get frustrated and in deeper. I am not saying it can't be removed, just it may be harder than you realize to get it out since it was in tight enough to snap. _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
tristessa Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2004 Posts: 3992 Location: Portland, OR
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 10:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Is it leaking fluid from the now-broken bleeder? If no, leave it alone and put the caliper on the "replace it someday" list. And you don't need the fancy spreader tool to replace the pads, a wood shim from the hardware store (to protect the piston & seals) and a big F-ing screwdriver to pry with has worked for me for years as long as the piston isn't seized in the caliper. (if it is, replace/rebuild the caliper) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
greenbus pilot Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2008 Posts: 1285 Location: Wisconsin: Rustbelt, USA baby!!
|
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 11:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Try the repair bleeder from a FLAPS- they really work well, and only takes about 30 minutes to do. Then you can actually bleed it properly again.
I have done a few valves like that and lived to tell about it. _________________ Sent from a white van down the street. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|