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Reserve valve / fuel tap leak
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awalls
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reserve valve / fuel tap leak Reply with quote

Out searching for that gas smell I found the fuel tap dripping fuel. Is there a gasket or seal where it threads into the gas tank? Or is it leaking from inside and need a rebuild? I just filled the tank too!!! So do I need to drain it and get a rebuild kit from WW or yet and tighten it? Any help would be great. Thanks
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, there is a little washer there, along with the fuel sock.

#26 and #27 here
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The original VW dealer bus parts manuals are available @

http://oacdp.org/

Also a must to get this manual, you can find it cheaper used:

http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Transporter-Works...amp;sr=8-6

or if your bus is earlier, and this manual has the reserve switch info:

http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Transporter-Works...mp;sr=8-11
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may need to rebuild your fule tap, replace the seal from tap to tank, and/ or replace the fuel line under the bus.

When I have has a tap need rebuilding, generally there is an internal leak. This means when you turn it to OFF, some still gets past... enough to drive at idle or stop and go, but the bus mysteriously dies on the freeway.

First check fuel line under bus.

And disconnect the battery ground strap from the battery before messing about under there.
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awalls
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just ordered new fuel sock, washer and rebuild kit from WW. Yeah, first thing I did was disconnect the battery due to being so close the starter. Now I need to figure out the best way to drain the tank. I'm thining another fuel hose a let it slowly daub out into gas cans. Thanks for the info
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Krustybus
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a simple self prime siphon hose. You can get these at almost any boat, power sport, lawn equipment, etc store. Here's one from Harbor Freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/self-priming-copper-jiggler-pump-47334.html

Empty most of the tank through the filler. Beats 10 gallons out the bottom with the small fuel line.
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awalls
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Krusty, that might speed up the process a bit.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've dumped about 5 gallons out the bottom before.

It takes a LONG time.
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guatebus
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just rebuilt and added a fuel reserve tap to my '64. Some tips:

It will be a whole lot easier to do with the engine out.

As for rebuilding the tap, consult your Bentley as there are good pictures in there. There's a little retaining ring that's a pain in the ass...I had to struggle with it a bit to get it back on. Use a socket or something to compress the tap while simultaneously compressing the ring and slipping it into its groove. Make sure the little disc thing is oriented properly before you put in the retaining ring...you can blow through the tap pipes to check to see which ones are open for the three different positions of the tap.

Replace all your fuel lines at the same time. I used 30R9-rated hose, which is resistant to stuff in modern gasoline, but couldn't find a metric version. I had to use REALLY tight hose clamps to make the SAE hose work. I wish there was metric 30R9 hose.

Make sure you understand how the nut on the bottom of your tank works...it has left-hand and right-hand threads which allow it to tighten onto the reserve tap and the tank at the same time. If you mess this up, you'll get leaks. I would test for leaks by adding one gallon of gas to the tank. See if there are immediate leaks, and if not, check back the next day to see if there are seeping leaks. The nut needs to be tight on the tank and the tap for leak-free operation.

Have fun...reserve taps are cool.
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awalls
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any tips or trick to remove the black disk with 5 holes. I'm haveing a hell of a time getting it out.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

awalls wrote:
Just ordered new ...rebuild kit from WW.


Link to this? I didn't see it.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Any tips or trick to remove the black disk with 5 holes. I'm haveing a hell of a time getting it out.

I use a small pick with a hooked end. The disc just sits in there.


Link to kit:
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111209113A
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

awalls wrote:
Any tips or trick to remove the black disk with 5 holes. I'm haveing a hell of a time getting it out.


I agree, a small pick is good. If the disk is old and crusty, it might come out in a million pieces. Be careful about getting too rough with it, though, as you don't want to mess up the brass tubes that pass through it.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the rubber boot that covers up the valve available anywhere? I didn't see it on the WW site.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only some of the reserve switches used the rubber cap.

You can check the obsolete "air-cooled documentation project" website @

http://oacdp.org/

The type 2 parts manuals there are a must for parts research.

Other possibility if you just want something to work, is maybe a brake wheel cylinder boot might fit.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the boot. It came on my valve. It is just too shot to reuse. The WW site shows one on the bug valve, but not the bus one. And the bug one isn't shown in the kit. Just wondered what others are using.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well then you might try calling them and see if they will sell you just a boot!
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay so this is how it came off the bus, and the second pic is how its going back on if I'm correct? Do I need another washer to slide over the fuel sock? Also the washer on the underside of the nut is a copper one? Thanks for everyones help.
Oh and there was no fuel sock or washer on the top of the nut when I took it off the tank.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The parts manuals mentioned previously have almost a complete listing of the parts used, AND nice exploded diagrams of the parts.
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awalls
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I looked through http://oacdp.org/ but the exploded diagram does not explode the nut on top of the fuel tap to show if there is a washer... And my transporter service manual has a differnt version of the fuel tap...
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