Here we go windshield install issues

[rickpereira]

tried to get some practice with installing the rear windshield before i tackle the front one,, and this was my result. now what am i doing wrong?

thw windshield is centered but the RHS top section doesnt want to budge and go further into the frame. from the inside it all looks good,

i moulded the moulding to the shape of the glass, before installing the rubber on the glass and then the moulding in the rubber..

these are the german blocked seals, i couldnt imagine installing the cheap unblocked ones if its this hard with the blocked ones.


im at a loss

[Disc]

Rear windows proved to be a gay! Last summer two guys that work at glass supplier/installer company made success on the 6-th try! It was a '68 Coupe with very mint body and little rust, never been in accident. 2 1/2 hours later they won! Much swear (literally - temps. was 37° C+ !), blood and #$@*^$%. Original heated VW rear window. Windshield in for 3 min.! German blocked seals.
My suggestion is try again!

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The glory never gets old, just need new paint.
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Nick

[Bobnotch]

It looks like you need to get a "glaziers" tool, to get the outside seal lip the roll out from underneath the body like it is. I've found that seals like to "roll under" especially in the corners. When I did my T-34 window seals, my wife helped me install them, and I used 2 inch wide masking tape to hold both the chrome trim and the rubber to the glass. With a piece of 14 gage plastic coated stranded wire to use on the inside seal lip, and lots of soapy water (heavy on the soap), they went in easier than any other set of windows we've installed. At first, I thought we had had a problem, as they went in too easy, but they're fine.

However, you might need to try installing it again though. On my 65 Notch's rear window we had to do it 3 times, just to get it to go in.
And no, we're not professional window installers, but we did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[das skiver]

It can be done!
It took me 4 times with the front window in and out before I was happy and understood what really needed to happen before it was going to happen right.
The "chrome" had to be as perfect to the real shape and curves of the windshield as I could possibly get it if the seal and strip were ever going to fit properly
Even after I thought I had it "good enough" it needed to be finessed better before installation.
At first I really thought I might be able to "massage" the chrome strip in the "t" channel (74 Ghia vert) but not a chance - the molding does not flex, slide or flatten out after it's in the frame.
like so many things it's the prep work.

and the top and bottom gaps in the chrome strips were from my incorrect contouring of the molding.
When I removed the cracked windshield - the strips almost touched...
during re installation - I had 1/4" gap top and bottom, but the sliding covers hid the gaps.

I used Silicone grease... not wet or slimy - very slippery - even after 3 weeks.

And lastly - I can't imagine doing this yourself - unless it was a convertible which gives you access to both sides of the glass to give the pretty hefty pressure needed to seat the glass and seal.

a small diameter wooden stick and plastic scarper worked for manipulating the rubber into position.

For me it was like so many other VW projects...
yes - it can be a bitch... but eventually - it was back together.
ever do a pedal cluster? LOL!

[rickpereira]

[John Moxon]

[rickpereira]

Thanks John, I did have a read through all of the installation posts I could find, however none of them mention bending the moulding to suit the window opening, as I see it that is where most of the problems arrise when trying to seat the rubber and trim in the corners. If the trim is not shaped to the car it will pull away from the rubber no matter how much masking tape you apply to it.

[copellos]

place the glass on the bench , support it the middle. put the seal round it.
then set the trim on top of the seal check to see if the trim sits flat completely around the seal and glass. no light should peek through bend and twweek the trim slighlty to do this the flater it sits the flater it looks when installed. ,your seal is also important. blocked cornered high quality seals are the only good choice HOG has them . the seal needs to be warm and soft to install lots of soap, sam has tried using shop grease removing hand soap stuff says it works great. most important beer, good quality beer and get a few of them..

[The aussie Trimmer]

Hi guys, if you read the factory instructions they use a string to pull the lip out as they install the chrome windscreen moulding into the rubber, this works well and gets the tongue of the moulding to seat deep into the step of the rubber.

I use this method when installing the windscreens and I don’t use grease, soap or any other product to aid the insertion of the moulding. These will only take away the natural grip of the rubber to hold the moulding and only allow the moulding tongue to slip out as you try and roll the rubber out.

The trick is to start by supporting the glass on a stable bench preferably with suction cups to hold the glass steady, but a large piece of dense foam will do the trick, but it must raise the glass high enough to allow you to work on all sides with ease.

Start by cleaning all the powdery residue off the rubber inside and out and fitting the rubber to the glass, taping (masking tape) it to the underside to help keep the rubber in place while you work. Now feed your string (thin 3mm blind sash cord) around the moulding lip, starting from the middle side of the rubber working it all the way round.

Now start at one side (in the middle of the moulding) and open the lip with your fingers as you gently but firmly insert the moulding deep into the rubber, working toward the corner from the middle out to each side and then toward the middle of the glass, while carefully drawing on the string to pull the lip out so the step in the rubber catches the moulding tongue, at the same time using as much downward pressure you need to ensure the moulding goes into place and is held snug in the rubber. Repeat for the other side, this is a slow tedious part of the install and puts a lot of strain on your hands, so stop and rest.

Once you have the moulding completely seated within the rubber, slide the join cover in place, now use a strong tape over the join to hold the moulding. Turn the glass over, remove the tape from the rubber and feed your sash cord into the rubber and introduce it to the car. Note: a little light soapy spray on the body aperture at this point will aid the stringing into the car.

It works first time every time.

Yeah I know I’m a professional with years of practice, but with the right information anyone can do it too. Maybe not in one application, but you never know.
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Cheers,
Kev.
Drive with your lights on (Be aware be seen) help others GIVE Blood

[Karmann Gheezer]

Rick, your car is coming along nicely. Hopefully, a video of a windshield installed by a professional will be produced for us all to see one day.

From my experience the early windshields with the c-shaped aluminum trim was much more difficult to install.
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[DrakeB]

not a KG specific video, but it does have a few tips that might be helpful that were outlined in an above post.


Link

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Bondo? Bondo? We don't need no stinking Bondo!

How is it 'NOS' if it has been modified?

The Thread Killer.

[Telephunken]

I have read every post on this topic and for the life of me has helped me zero. I see dozens of methods, technics, etc., and have tried most. This ridiculous trim install has held up my progress on this car for at least a week. I don't even want to lok at this car anymore. I've tried soap, no soap, talc powder, etc.,etc. none at all, string, tape, you name it. I cannot get this F$&@ trim even started in the rubber seal. I have the "C" type trim which must be the worst invention ever. I have read about how to install the windshield, etc. but I would love to even get to that part. I've looked at YouTube videos, you name it and no help. Everyone makes it sound easy but no one seems to cover this specific portion in depth. I'm actually an engineer by trade and I am embarrassed to say that this thing has me stumped. Which part the trim should I start with? The end, the corner, etc.?? I'm using stock trim that came off my old rubber, stock windshield, and blocked rubber. Help!!!!!!!!!!!

[Bobnotch]

[whacky_ghia]

After much research and then futilely hiring professionals to install my early Ghia c type window chrome trim (not the later T type aluminum trim), I figured out a method and got the back and front installed. I took lots of pictures.

I don't think I have seen any good internet instruction on this.

For the greater good I would offer up my pictures and experience if anyone is interested....?

Let me know. Please also let me know if this post is duplicated (yikes!).

ps: This would be my first contribution. If I did it I think I would want to edit and then post a .pdf with the instructions and pix. Is there a way to do that?

[sparkleplenty]

Yes please....I am definitely interested....Thank you.
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'56 European Oval Ragtop-Stock
'56 Karmann Ghia Coupe-Stock
'59 Italian Series I Li150 Lambretta-Stock


"Give a man a fish, feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, feed him for a lifetime."

"Only when the tide goes out do you discover who is swimming naked."

[John Moxon]

You have a PM "Whacky."
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John.
Judson Supercharger Information on The Samba
My 1958 Shorrock Supercharged Karmann Ghia
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[whacky_ghia]

OK. I will collect my photos and thoughts and get cracking at my c-trim window procedure. Cheers!

[sparkleplenty]

[djway3474]

[sparkleplenty]

Load the tube with PB Blaster and let it soak for a month before you even try...First, I was able grab of cable housing metal with some vice grips and pulled...It unwound like a never ending slinky. Once, I got that out the sheathing plastic remained. I pulled as much of that out as I could. I put a frayed clutch cable wire on the end of a high speed drill. It was like a roto-rooter...That got a little more out. Once that stopped working, I heated up a coat hangar and proceeded to burn it out in chunks. Once I was able to clean out the first 3 feet or so, I went down to Lowe's and bought a piece of steel round thin enough to fit in the hole and did the same thing as the coat hangar. Heated the rod red hot with Mapp gas, melted and extracted what I could. I did this at both ends...As I made more progress, I stuck the steel round in as far as it would go used a pair of vice grips near the hole and proceeded to pound the shit out of the vice grips...Then returned to using heat, melt, extract...Finally, I was able to pound the remaining two feet or so out of the end of the tube...I may have even used an old throttle cable heated up once or twice....It took to a couple days....I drank about 40 beers and had to kick the dog once or twice out of frustration..(just kidding about kicking the dog)....It was the worst VW experience of my life....I will never do it again....About half way into it, I even considered running (fabricating) another tube through the tunnel.....It was a friggin pain in the ass...Good luck to you
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'56 European Oval Ragtop-Stock
'56 Karmann Ghia Coupe-Stock
'59 Italian Series I Li150 Lambretta-Stock


"Give a man a fish, feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, feed him for a lifetime."

"Only when the tide goes out do you discover who is swimming naked."