Clutch pedal replacement in 1/2 hour! (Pics)

[joetiger]

Adding a photo to this thread that I came across in the classifieds that really illuminates how the mechanism fits together:

_________________
Joe T.

'86 NAHT Vanagon GL Syncro/ supercharged ABA 2.0 "Pigpen"
'04 GTI 1.8T
'04 Golf R32

"get metaphysical with it. if it's simply a means to get to and from places, it will let you down. if it becomes your zen, it can't fail you." -dabaron

"Still, it's good to be afield."--VWagabond

Available Now! Vanagon to Louisiana--A Two-Lane Reckoning Through Past and Present

www.josephtrussell.com

[shepherdsond]

Wow, this is the most impossible looking job that I have ever done in 25 years of van wrenching. Hats off to the guy that figured this out.

I kept looking at it, getting my head down there and deciding that there was absolutely no way this could be done. After 3 or four times decided to give it a go and, what do you know, it actually is possible!

For me the most challenging part was getting the pedal back on the shaft - solved by greasing up the shaft and moving it in and out (of the brake pedal bushing) a few times to loosen it up enough that I could push it through the clutch pedal bushing. Surprisingly the C clip went back on first try (tape on a flathead screwdriver) - luck. Whole thing took about 3 hours. I did angle grind the opposite horn from the new pedal (a GW replacement).

My pedal and pin looked pretty bad, definitely needed to be replaced, unfortunately however it did not solve my clutch pedal problem! Master cylinder next.
_________________
87 Syncro Hightop Camper
3 knobs + solid shaft
2.2 Phase II Subaru
Hi-Top build thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=534517

[T3Syncrohammer!]

Hi, I just completed the Vanagon clutch pedal remove and replace without pulling the dash. Two improvised tools I made worked out really well!👍

In fact! I removed the circlip and re installed it first try! I was pretty amazed
How well they worked!

[Sodo]

Im currenlty pacing aropund the van, trying to stare-down 👁👁 this task.

Here's a useful pic.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[dobryan]

Stop pacing and get to work!
_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[Syncro Jael]

[Pcforno]

Second the height thing. I struggled for the better part of a day with this (6 foot zero), until my friend came over (five foot 8 with small hands) and he did it in an hour. I would recommend removing the dash (15-20 minutes), and taking the opportunity to do whatever work back there you’ve been putting off.

[Sodo]

OK I'm not pacing around anymore, and the 👁👁staredown👁👁 was not effective.

Everything is greasy in there, including the clutch pivot pin that shows zero wear in 199,130 miles .

I'm not on the 1/2 hour plan but I could do it faster "next time".
That said, I'm having trouble getting the pedals aligned - to slide the (18mm) pedal pivot pin back in place.

To get the pedal out I had to slide the pin to the right, where it contacts the chassis sheetmetal but cocks sideways a little.
Now the pivot pin is kinda jammed against the chassis sheetmetal.
The (modified) clutch pedal inserts fine, but I can't slide the pin out of its jammed position and simultaneously enter the clutch pivot hole.
If ya know what I mean.
Can't hold the pedal aligned while futzing with un-jamming the pivot pin.

I shall win.

This helped a lot.

A few inches higher would be better.
For example Van on ramps on a sidewalk, where you can stand at (lower) street level.
That would be about 37 inches.

Poor-mans version of Dobryan's garage lift.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[[email protected]]

I vaguely remember having the same issue. Can't remember how I resolved it, but did manage somehow. Keep the faith!

[iceracer]

Since I was referred to in the beginning of this thread years ago, I thought I would check back in with my most recent experience.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...pedal+dash

So I had to pull my clutch pedal in July to adjust the pivot pin (due to a new Smallcar clutch I installed) in order to get the more or less correct feel/release point in the clutch. A Long story of labor that I will not bother you with. However, I pulled my pedal in excess of probably 20 times in July.

Once you have the clip off, you can use your fingers to push/slide the pin to the passenger side of the van until it contacts the body. Using your right hand, grab the pin with the roll pin and turn it as you pull it to the passenger side. The roll pin helps greatly in moving that big pin. Once you have it as far as it will go, the pedal should be loose.

Now you have to slightly muscle/move (in creative ways) the pedal out and up to get the pin out of the master slave. Pay careful attention to the angle (left or right turn) you make of the pedal to drop it out of the van. This is important because you have to use that same movement (left or right turn of the pedal) to get it back up there and the pin back in the master slave.

Now the fun starts.

I eyeball the approx. sitting height of the pedal pad compared to the brake pedal pad to know if I am in the correct position more or less before attempting to slide the main pin back to the drivers side that holds the pedal in its place. Grease is your friend in all of this up under there.

Once you get the correct alignment of the pin, it should slide in fairly easily and again use the roll pin to turn and push the pin to the drivers side. You know you have it all correct once the roll pin sits in its recessed area which you can not see but must do by feel.

Actually, all of this is done by feel of both hands.

Once you get the job done, do it another 20+ times so you become a master of this and can fix all your friends vans. You will get loads of beer for this or whatever else turns you on.
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86 Syncro Wolfsburg edition
63 Beetle (The Iceracer)

[iceracer]

Don't forget to install the clip on the shaft - another fun step. I actually have been driving for months without the clip installed and there has been no moment to the main big pin.
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86 Syncro Wolfsburg edition
63 Beetle (The Iceracer)

[Sodo]

In general you want to avoid leaving 'loose ends' and stuff in your braking systems.

I used a screwdriver with a magnet on the end.
I was at Peace Vans and a guy there named Jason handed me a whole stack of wicked strong magnets.

I had some trouble for awhile then noticed my screwdriver was worn out and rounded.
I re-ground the screwdriver end to be "real square" and it pushed right on.

[bajaleo]

Thanks for the pictures Sodo. This repair is in my future.

[Sodo]

Leo, best wishes that it cooperates.

Raising the van helped a lot cuz I worked from the outside, standing on the ground. I almost wore the driveway gravel thru to the dirt.
Raising the van higher would be better.
And that's the pile of tools that ensued for this "simple" task.

If you have to re-adjust the clutch, here's a post from CessnaJon: Clutch master cylinder clevis adjustment

I turned the adjuster two turns, that was too much.
Out came the pedal and one turn was better.
Then I used the slop in the master cyl mounting holes to get it right.
Then later I found CessnaJon's post which makes sense.
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[strawman]

First off, many thanks to all the people who’ve posted regarding this subject. I looked at this project last winter when my van was in storage. Couldn’t see how I could do it from below so shelved the idea.

So another winter, vans in storage so it’s time. Decided to take dash off which was really easy. Glad I did as I found two broken heater cables.

Wow was the large pin a bear to push back. I don’t think there was a drop of grease on it. This might have been where most of my squeaking was coming from. You guys have covered so much but I thought I’d better add my two bits in case it can help the next person.

Removed clip, easy. Used large screwdriver to leverage against van body and pushed pin back 1/2”. Then I got a 7” spike with a large head and bent it at 90 degrees leaving about 3/4” between the head and the back of the 90. Putting this in against the pin allowed me to use my large screwdriver and leverage against the back of the 90. Ended up bending three more spikes to different lengths before the pin was back far enough. And I had to pry really hard. So obviously lots of grease will be used when I reinstall. There was no grease whatsoever the clevis or pin.

As you can see the hole in the pedal is worn so I’m looking for advice on how to fix it. I have a welder friend who is also a blacksmith and he’s willing to do the work for me. Do I just get him to fill the hole with weld then drill a new hole? I’ve measured the clevis holes at a hair under 5/16th. So should the pedal hole be drilled slightly larger and how critical is it that gets drilled in exactly the same place?

I’m thinking, run a 5/16th drill through the clevis to clean it up then maybe a 11/32th hole in the pedal part. Your thoughts are much appreciated.
Thanks
Dan

[jimf909]

[Sodo]

[Selsk]

Oh man this thread gave me flashbacks. Thanks again to iceracer for his original post. I remember when I started having clutch issues I went to 3 different shops and they ALL REFUSED THE JOB. All were "well known VW Shops". One guy that was the local "vanagon master" told me how insanely difficult to do the job and that you had to cut a whole in the body near the headlight in order to get to the problem. Then thesamba came to my rescue. I ordered the Gowesty refurbished pedal and took my seat off. About an hour or so later I emerged victorious.

[strawman]

Thanks Sodo for your reply.
You’re right every thing measures out at 5/16”. I bought a new pin and have decided to drill the hole out larger and press a brass bushing in. I’m looking forward to a nice quiet clutch pedal👍.
Thanks
Dan

[Ahwahnee]

My 84 showed no sign of wear on either the pedal or the pin when I had it apart around 250,000 miles. Probably greased initially and then I squirted some sticky lube in the general direction every Olympiad or so.