Clutch pedal replacement in 1/2 hour! (Pics)

[Sodo]

I bet if you could pack some grease into the pivot you could stop the wear.
If you still have access to it I'd do that for sure.
But at 1/4" of slop, it's really worn.

Replacing just the 8mm or 5/16 pin might reduce pedal slop by 30%.
You can get a 5/16" pin at the hardware store.

But it's not the pin that breaks, it's the pedal.
But the new pin will probably cause a change in the wear areas (for the better).

Just for the data point...., I'd like to see the pin and clevis hole combination that results in 1 1/4" of pedal slop.
If you could get a photo of that clevis/hole, maybe it could be determined that
you don't have to carry a pedal around.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[Igeo]

The circlip is not in a position to push on the ends. Maybe a hook tool to pull it down? I feel good about at least getting in there to see it!

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1987 Westfalia 2.1 WBX Manual

[R0ckyMtnCamper]

[Honuak]

plenty of fiddling with a long flat screwdriver finally worked for me.
When you go to put it back in a magnet and some duct tape is helpful

[Igeo]

OK, had time today to revisit this. In the end, it was two screwdrivers that was the key to popping off the circlip. The shaft on mine was pretty well lubed froim the factory, so it slid to the passenger side pretty easily with a little jiggling of the brake pedal. The clutch pedal just suddenly dropped down. One victory at a time. At least it's out.

Not so bad right? Not even sure if its worth it to try welding on it to build up the worn area. It's really the pin that's creating most of the play. I do have the repair kit with the bushing and new pin.

I did order a new slave cylinder, but even as bad as the existing one looks on the outside, the fluid I drained out of it before I removed the master looked pretty clean. I may leave it alone and just carry the new slave under the seat.
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1987 Westfalia 2.1 WBX Manual

[Sodo]

[syncrodoka]

I wouldn't waste the opportunity to weld it up while it is out, that hole looks worn and oversized. The clevis pin is worn but with a new one in place the unnecessary slop in the clutch pedal will never help your driving experience. Spend a 1/2 hour now on fixing it and you will literally never go back in there again.

[Igeo]

I'm in no hurry to get this done, especially if you consider the grief factor of working up in there. Doing the gas tank R&R is a walk in the park by comoparison. Here is the other side which looks worse. I'll weld it up.

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1987 Westfalia 2.1 WBX Manual

[Igeo]

After measuring the ID of the worn oval, it was still slightly less than the 7/16" that the new hole for the bushing has to be. So I simply drilled it out carefully. The bushing supplied by Go Westy is just slightly longer than the space between the clevis opening, so the bushing had to be worked a bit to take off about 0.010" so it would fit. The OD of the bushing is just right for a press fit into the new 7/16" hole. I slathered some Loktite on it first before pressing it in using a vice and a socket to get it centered. The supplied new pin is a nice slip fit into the bore. Lube it well before install. I might add a couple of washers in between it all just to keep it tight. I did cut the unused ear off as has been suggested to ease the pedal reinstall which I hope to do this week.

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1987 Westfalia 2.1 WBX Manual

[4Gears4Tires]

Nice work on the install.
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'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[Igeo]

Got this finished this afternoon. I did chamfer the edge of the bushing a little and had no issues getting the big pin to slide in there. They must have had a new tub of lube at the factory that day because it was still nice and greasy. I tried the super strong little mnagnet trick to attach the circlip to a screwdiver. Forget it. As soon as you get in the neighborhood of any sheetmetal under there, WHAM!, the magnet goees right to it. Save youself the trouble and just tape it on the end of the screwdriver then push it home. Then the spring is the last bit of fun. Not too bad, but I had to use a needle nose vice grip to make that happen. Reinstalled the master, bled the system and Viola! Now I don't have to hold my breath and cringe evey time I step on the clutch pedal. Ah the cost of peace of mind. Thanks all!
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1987 Westfalia 2.1 WBX Manual

[zmvanagon]

Just did this repair and it might be one of the best things I've done to the van so far. Made driving the car so much smoother and easier. Before doing this my clutch pedal would make a squeaking sound when compressing the pedal and when releasing. It would also sometimes get stuck in the compressed position (scary). I'd recommend anyone attempting this to read the entire thread before starting. Theres not much I could really say that others haven't already said. It can be tricky but it is definitely do able.
Having a long screw driver greatly helps the process of removing the circlip. Doing the job in the day time with the gage cluster cover removed helps some light get in as well. Cost $20 to have a local weld shop weld it up.

[dobryan]

^^^^^^

Wow. Your clutch pedal lever is the poster child for this issue.
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[R0ckyMtnCamper]

[Igeo]

Hard to imagine how the wallered pin had any bite in that slot at all! Looks great.
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1987 Westfalia 2.1 WBX Manual

[zmvanagon]

[Sodo]

[Zeitgeist 13]

I'm in the middle of doing this job on a Syncro, but I can't get the large pin out enough to drop the clutch pedal. The pin is running into the body on the brake side and won't go any further. Has anyone else run into this challenge?
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[R0ckyMtnCamper]

[Zeitgeist 13]

Thanks. That seems to have been the trick, as well as simply rocking the pedal out of its place. I found that pulling the circlip downward was a better strategy than trying to push it upwards. I made a pull rod with a short right angle end.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?