Wiring help (Watson kit)

[Vinnems]

Hey Ash. Thanks for sticking through this with me. In the end, though, I think the simplest way to set up the turns and hazards is how fcl did in his diagram:

This is essentially what you're saying to do, correct Ash? He has a diode running that's connected to the turn signal wires preventing the current from returning. But then he has it going to a universal relay to reverse the polarity. I'm unsure why this is needed, but I'm not going to argue with him seeing how it works. Also confused on why fcl leaves out power (terminal 30) on both the dimmer relay and the hazard switch yet they still work. But I'm a noob at this stuff so who knows.
Going to need some more piggyback connects. This is alot of splitting.

[ashman40]

[Vinnems]

Got ya Ashman. After PMing fcl and reading your post, I noticed a major part of my confusion was the Watson diode. I didn't know I would need it. they didn't tell me. And since I don't want to give Watson any more money, I'll just make it myself.

According to fcl, it's two diodes inside, 1 amps according to Watson's site, connected to a single wire. Should be easy, we order diodes by the thousands at work.

[Vinnems]

OK, posting up version 2 of the Watson diagrams. Big change is I ditched the whole column switch deal Watson gives you. It's kind of pointless when you don't use most of the wires involved in it. So now turn signals are just spliced right into the turn signal switch.
Also cleaned up the splicing. Now I just show it as wires jumping, which makes it cleaner. Added circuit numbering on the brake switches. Added fcl's bits to the diagram too, giving credit where credit is due (hope he doesn't mind).
One thing I still need help on is in regards to the wiring on the turn signal switch. I got an after market one, and I don't know which is the ground. I have the following wire colors:
-Green/Black: Turn signals
-Gray: ?
-Green/Black/White: Turn signals
-Gray/Black: ?
-Brown: Horn ground (?)
-White: ?
-Black/White: Turn signals
>Brown/White: Headlights
What I really need to know is what wire is the ground for the switch? I don't know if the brown wire is for the horn or the switch itself. If anyone could help me figure this out, I'd appreciate it.
Here's the updated diagrams:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/906773.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/906772.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/906771.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/906770.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/906769.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/906768.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/906767.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/906766.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/906765.jpg

[mrbigmax]

From Airhead Parts technical article (my comments italicized):
"Below is a chart of what each wire does:

Black w/Green & White stripe - Connects to Terminal "49a" on Flasher Relay.(49a is the flasher output on the factory relay.)

Black w/Green stripe - Connects to the Right side Turn Signals

Black w/White Stripe - Connects to the Left side Turn Signals

Brown w/White Stripe - Connects to Terminal "S" on the Headlight Dimmer Relay. (This activates the dimmer relay when you pull the lever.)

Brown Wire - Connects to Chassis Ground.

71 Models - White Wire - On Beetles this connects to the Brown wire going to the Horn.

The Extra Wires - When your Beetle was assembled on the line, a 6 wire switch was originally installed. Because a similar switch with 9 wires was installed on the Type 3 to accommodate the European Parking Light function, VW and SWF eventually superseded the 6 wire switch to the 9 wire style to reduce production costs and streamline their replacement parts inventory. This why you may have more wires than what’s listed above to work with. These wires are Grey, Grey w/Black stripe and Grey w/Red stripe (this last wire is not usually on Reproduction Switches). Simply terminate the ends with electrical tape and tie-wrap them out of the way."

[mrbigmax]

Your wiring diagrams are excellent. I would make one change to your headlight wiring. Your headlights are not fused. Your headlights are one of the higher current drawing circuits in your car, especially if you are using halogen or xenon bulbs. To fix this, I have two suggestions:
1. Instead of drawing power straight through the ignition switch "X" terminal, you can connect your "56" wire to the headlight fuse. The drawback is if the fuse blows, you have no headlights.
2. A better solution would be to add an auxiliary fuse panel and run fuses to each headlight wire (4 total: 2 low beams, 2 high beams) after the wires come off the relay. I would do it like this:

Just a note regarding the dimmer relays, a 4 prong relay came from the factory and didn't have a #30 terminal. Replacement relays are usually 5 prong and can be wired like this:

[Vinnems]

Thanks mrbigmax. I actually was going to install my relay like that (made a jumper and all) but figured what the heck, the Watson kit came with a wire for 30 and a fuse for it, so I figured whatever. But thanks for clearing up that turn signal switch confusion. I'll add that to the diagram.
And I'm confused what you mean about the headlights not being fused, but I think it's my diagrams as the culprit. The headlights are powered via the headlight switch (and the relay's 30 maybe, not sure), but I drew that connection in on the parking lights as to not clutter up the headlights diagram by drawing brown wires all over. I like your design as a bonus, but my goal for this was to get Watson's kit just working out of the box with the least amount of extra purchases.

[mrbigmax]

Here's a schematic for the headlight relay:

If you run a hot wire from your BAT1 to terminal 30 on the relay, you can activate the relay with the headlights on or off because 30 is getting its +12 from a constantly on source. If you remove that connection, BAT1 to 30 and run the jumper between 30 and 56, the relay will only activate when the headlights are on. That's because the relay is getting its +12 from the headlight switch, terminal 56.

If you look at your diagram and follow along with my description of the circuit and I hope you can understand what I am saying. You are drawing power from "x" on the ignition switch to the terminal "x" on the headlight switch. You pull the headlight switch on and you get a connection between "x" and 56 inside the headlight switch. From the headlight switch, 56 will power the relay at 56 on the relay. Every time you pull the turn signal switch, that closes the circuit for the coil inside the relay (see above schematic) through the "s" terminal and the relay directs +12 straight through from 56 to 56a or 56b to the headlights. If you were to wire it this way, you are basically going straight from the battery to the headlights and you have no fuse protection for your headlights.

If you run your power to "x" on the switch from the headlight fuse on the Watson fuse panel, you will have fuse protection for the entire headlight circuit. If you blow this fuse, it kills the entire circuit and you will have no headlights.

The only way to provide fuse protection for all 4 headlight outputs (right low beam, right high beam, left low beam and left high beam) is to add four more fuses to the circuit after the dimmer relay. This way if one blows, it only effects that one headlight output and not the other three. That Hella unit is only $8 to $12 on Amazon.

I hope this helps...

[Vinnems]

It just clicked with me, mrbigmax . The battery runs directly to the ignition switch and x runs into the headlight switch, hence no fuse and the ignition is always powered so your headlights are always powered. That's really bad, would've never realized it until I was driving blind . Just had to draw it out myself to get what you mean. This is why fcl had a jumper going from the second 30 spot to x on the switch:

This accomplishes the same thing as what you're saying here:

[ashman40]

[c21darrel]

so happy i found this thread. Im 4 weeks into my Watsons install...and stalled often. Just reading thru the last 3 pages will get me back on track (was stuck at brake lite switchs) and clear up so many of my questions. Thanks to all.

[Vinnems]

So much piggybacking going on with the turn signals. What a mess!
Anyways, new questions. Wiring up the horn. First, which wire goes where?

Or does it not matter since it's an open circuit? As in I can connect the ground or power to either? Because they aren't marked.
Second, I realized some confusion on my part on how the horn goes together. Power goes to the fuse, that's easy, but I notice that there's a brown wire that's supposed to go to the horn ring, like pictured:

Where then does that wire go to? I updated the horn wiring to match the info given earlier in the thread:

Since this white wire is the horn ground, do I splice another wire on the white wire and connect it the steering like in the second picture?

[c21darrel]

Vinnems, I think the brown on the horn goes down the steer shaft and terminates on either the ragjoint or end of steering tube. I have watsons green wire in my front headlight group drop down to the horn. only pic...

BTW thanks, got my wipers wired last night using your diagram. I only have turn sigs/haz/light mess left. yeah, only.

[gysgtbigdaddy]

I have my speedo wired like Vinnems' picture
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/906768.jpg

I used the Watson gauge cluster wires and was wondering what should I do with the pink "ignition 12v" wire on the Watson kit? Do I use it or not?

And what about the duel brake setup....double up the brake wire with the wiper wire (both going to fuse panel)?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/906772.jpg

[Vinnems]

Gyst, keep in mind this kit is not really made specifically for VWs. That pink wire is supposed to be piggy backed to all the gauges you might have in whatever car this kit was made for. When you look at the complete diagram, you see the pink wire ran to a water temp gauge, tachometer, and a bunch of other gauges. Stock VWs don't have these gauges, they have a speedometer with a bunch of lights. The lower lights are powered by the brown wire coming from the fuse box. The two night lights are powered by the headlight switch (grey wire). It's why I just ditched the whole column thing since I just didn't really work in the car.
For the brake warning light wiring, in the original wiring diagram, the green wire in my diagram (power wire) is spliced into the the 30 circuit on the wiper switch. As I put in the note in my diagram, instead of piggy backing on the wiper switch I just connected it to the fuse box, same spot as the wiper switch. You could connect it to any other open spot on the fuse box if you wanted, or go original VW wiring and splice it with the wiper switch circuit 30.
On the horn switch, after looking into it, I see that on standards the wire runs down the column and connects on to the steering coupler thing, but Supers don't have that, and I don't recall and specific places on the steering box or body to connect this wire to. But then how would that work as the wire would get twisted everytime you turn the wheel because the steering box is stationary and the body is too. It's have to connect on the shaft somehow cut I don't see a spot for it.

[gysgtbigdaddy]

I'm not going to lie.......I pulled every wire out and started again. I am going to go as far from VW as I can to save on my confusion. Right now I have the headlights (ran thru relays and toggle for hi-low settings), running lights, tail lights, and brake lights working as advertised.

On the speedo I have connected the alt/dio wire. On the bottom of my speedo, below the three lights, I have two connections. If I'm looking at the diagram correctly I should connect the alt/dio to the right post and jump off the left post to the fuel gauge...or are the alt/dio and jumper wire supposed to be together?

I have the turn signal dio Y-connecter and a relay for the speedo turn signal hookup but haven't quite figured out how to wire the turn signals. I have the stock hazard switch and tried to wire it like this but it didn't work for me: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/867507.jpg
I'm thinking #85 on the relay is where I should hook up the single side of the diodes y-spliter and connect the other ends to the indicators as stated. But no workie


I'm still somewhat confused on what hooks up to what and where the dio-thing goes and faces this way or that.......geez, now I know why it would cost an arm and a leg to have this done by a mechanic.

[Vinnems]

For the alt/dio wire:

The brown wire coming off the fuse to the bottom connector on the speedometer (under your three lights) is a power wire. It's what gives power to the three lights. The fuel guage sender and unit need power, too, which is why I jump the wire from the bottom of the lights to the fuel guage sender thing. This is how it was originally set up by VW, so I rolled with it. It also leaves your gauge fuse open for something else.
Yes, the turn/hazard situation is confusing as hell. One thing I would check is to make sure your lights and your hazard switch are grounded. The hazard switch has a spot on the side to ground it, your front and back turn signals have spots on them too to connect a ground wire.
Here's how the Watson diode deal is set up:

You have two wires, your left and right turn signal wires. They each have a diode on them. The two diodes come together and are connected to one wire. This makes it so there will be no backfeed off the turn signal switch, so you don't just have a big loop of current and nothing works. This wire you connect to spot 85 on the universal relay, and wire the rest as indicated and it should work. Honestly, I haven't tried it myself, but if it works for fcl it should work. He's the expert on this system, I've just been fumbling around with wires and come up with the same conclusions as him.
Make sure you have everything grounded properly and wires connected where they should be. I'll be able to try out my wiring this week at some point so I'll see if there's any trouble on my end. The horn diagram will change for sure, as I'm just going to have to fumble around with that until it works.

[mrbigmax]

BTW, the ground connection on the hazard switch is for the light in the knob and serves no other purpose. The lighting circuits (headlights, tail lights, brakes, turn signals,etc) are all grounded as the power passes through the respective bulbs and a common ground area such as the frame or car body, etc. One should make sure all the sockets, connectors that need grounds and especially the ground strap from the battery to the chassis is clean and well connected.

[gysgtbigdaddy]

I'm almost there, just have 3 questions (go figure). This is in regards to using the stock turn signal switch, wiper switch, and hazard switch. Yes, I know I'm stupid to try and use it but I'm sooo close. I have 9 wires coming from the turn signal switch (I've read a few posts about this).
Blk/Grn=Right Turn
Blk/Wt=Left Turn
After that I'm confused....I still have the Watson purple wire and the horn. I have Blk, Blk/Red, Brn, Grey, Brn/Wt, Blk/Yel, Blk/Blu left.

As for the hazard, I got the 49a, L, R, hookup. But I don't have a "31" for ground. I have 15, 49, 30, and 58b left.

And the wiper. I have on the column Blk/Red, Green, Blk/Wt, Blk....out of the motor there are two Blk/Wt wires joined together, and a plug with Blk/Yel, Blk, Green, Blk/W

I owe you guys some beer, I know it

[Vinnems]

gyst, for your wire question about the turn signal switch, look a couple posts up to see mrbigmax covered that.
On the hazard, 31 isn't labeled. It's the prong that's off to the side of the switch, away from everything else.
For the wiper switch, I'm not sure about your wire colors. A lot of POs hack up the wiring and it just gets messy over time. Wire color doesn't matter as long as you connect things like I show. I drew the connections on the wiper motor exactly how they look when looking at them to avoid confusion. But keep in mind I made my drawings for a 1971 Super Beetle. Things might be different on whatever year your car is (especially when you hit 1973 Supers). You might have to tweak things a bit. Switches might look different, wiper motor might look very different (trust me, I had a 74 before), so you'll have to look at the stock VW wiring diagram and other pictures and figure things out. If you do, draw a picture like I did and upload it here so someone else can use it in the future.
And what bigmax said about grounds. Most common problem with lights and such is a bad ground. Don't ground anything on the outside of the car that's exposed to the elements. I ran all my grounds to this four tab connector that was by the speedometer in my car. It's just for tabs connected to the body.