Wiring help (Watson kit)

[fclmscott]

Your horn should be wired as follows;

1) from the "HORN" location on the terminal strip, run a wire from here to one of the terminals of the horn.

2) From the other terminal of the horn attach a wire from it to a good ground

3)From the horn wire coming out of the steering column assembly running up under the dash, connect this to the "HORN SW" location on the terminal strip

4)Connect the steering wheel horn switch wire to the horn switch

Two notes here;
1) the wire that runs from the horn switch at the steering wheel down through the column and attaches to the steering coupler provides a chassis ground source (throuh the steering box) for the coil side of the horn relay.

2) The watsons fuse box has a horn relay already installed. If the horn is hooked up like described above, the horn relay coil will be grounded through the column to the chassis via the "HORN SW" terminal when the horn button is depressed. This in turn will close the switch contacts of the horn relay which will then allow power to pass through the switched side of the relay and supply power to the horn allowing it to sound.

[Vinnems]

Thanks fcl, I think I see how it works now. 1 and 2 are easy enough to do. For 3, I'm assuming you mean wire S- that comes off the column switch, correct? It's 4 where I have the problem, because Supers don't have the steering coupler.

It's the shaft connected to these u joints which connect to the box. All of this is metal on metal, so it will be one big path for current to travel. I don't know where to connect this wire to that will allow it to turn with the wheel. Hopefully someone with a Super will chime in and let me know how that is wired stock.

[fclmscott]

for 3), its the internal wire that runs from the rotating ground ring (bearing included) insde the column, to the "HORN SW IN" spot on the strip.

The wire that runs through the column is attached to the actual horn button ,so to speak, and terminates at a chassis ground but not sure where on a super.

[Vinnems]

OK, got it working. Or, actually, will get it working when someone chimes in on where the (4) wire connects to. I'd really appreciate it. I have a spare steering shaft and steering box and can say there is no place on either for the wire to connect.

[Steve McAboy]

Hey guys, I am just finishing a 68 sedan with Watson's kit, and found your discussion. Similar issues, would still be scratching my head on the turn signals without fcl's diagram with the relay for reversing polarity. I have a couple questions still, 1- how does the four way flasher pull switch (mounted in dash below radio) get wired? I see no mention of it. 2- I am still not getting the high beam to work, is there a way to test the dimmer switch?

[Vinnems]

Steve,
1. Check this out:

I suggest using the four way wire connectors that the stock wiring used, if you still have them. Really cleans up this mess.
2. If things are wired correctly, you should hear it clicking when switching. It's a very loud click, you can't miss it. If you hear no click, make sure it's wired like in this diagram:

If still no click, you need a new relay. Get it from RockAuto. They sell the same one everyone else does but they don't screw you on shipping.

[fclmscott]

Steve,
The dimmer relay is a latching relay, meaning that when terminal "S" goes to ground (through the momentary column switch, AKA brown wire), it latches the dimmer relay either to the high or low beam state. You can also just momentarily touch the "S" terminal to ground wire to see if it is latching and hence determine if the problem is in your column wire or the actual dimmer relay. By the way, the "latch" relay is powered from the same terminal (#30) that powers the lights. Your grounding the coil when you pull on the dimmer switch handle, thats when it latches to low or high.

For the hazard switch, check out my drawing in the upper right area. It's similar to Vinnems. Keep in mind that the actual flasher relay is integrated into the new fuse box. You'll want to be sure and tie in your left / right wires to the turn signal circuits BEFORE (upstream) the diode you installed previously for the turn signals to the turn signal indicator.

Hope all this helps Steve.

Frank

[Steve McAboy]

Thanks you guys for getting back to me, I have wired according to diagrams, the signals work-thanks Frank. I have tested the dimmer-no click, so I will order a new one today. I have wired in my hazard switch according to the diagrams as well, however, mine has an on/off switch (labeled emergency lights) in the dash, bottom right. I don't see that in either diagram, yours looks like the pull switch is integrated into the hazard switch. I will try posting some pics, when I figure out how to load them in this forum. Frank did you get your new 2110 installed and running? Vinnems, is your wiring all done now?

[Vinnems]

Are you saying Steve you have another switch to turn on the emergency lights other than the light up pull one? Because that's what I have on the bottom right of my dash, and its what's in the middle of my diagram.
I've got everything working but the horn. Someone who just got a 71 Super here is going to snap some photos to help me out with that last wire. Everything else works perfectly.

[fclmscott]

Steve, I apologize for not returning your call. Quite honestly it slipped my mind (old age?). Yep, got it installed and took it out for the first test drive a couple of weeks back, just so happen to have a car show happening that weekend and took first in class. Good way to bring it in. I had expected it to run good since it dynoed at 147hp but didn't really expect it to perform quite as good as it does. The wife and I went out for ice cream at dairy queen and I mentioned to her that it was surreal looking out the window seeing it in the parking lot finished and drivable after 6 years. It's also a kick to watch people come up and look it over. I can only imagine what the guy in the camaro was thinking when we left the stop light! My daughter said the front end lifted as second gear came in (her first time to ride in it). Still need to get rear toe adjustment before an extended trip. Hmmm, wonder what the next projects gonna be? By the way, all the wiring works without a hitch.. TTYL


Good luck on your horn wiring Vinn. You may be able to just check each leftover wire coming from the column switch(s) assembly for continuity to a ground when you pull the dimmer switch handle to find the right wire. Once you find it just hook it up to "S" on the dimmer relay and you should be good to go. Instead of an actual wire it may just use a grounding strap directly to the column mounting bolts. SB guys ought to know.

[Steve McAboy]

Hey Vinn, my hazard switch looks similar to the one on Frank's diagram, and is connected on the speedo bracket, then is connected to the pull/light switch in the dash which has two prongs, yours looks like one unit.

Hey Frank, congratulations, how about some pics, I hope you got one of that guy in the Camaro, Priceless!

[Steve McAboy]

Hello Frank and Vinn, finally got everything working, I bought a hazard switch like the ones you showed in the diagrams and a new dimmer switch too. Have one small issue though, both left and right signals work well, but when the lights are turned on the left signal makes a double click and blinks much slower, any ideas?

[fclmscott]

thats a classical example of a bad ground. The turn signals are fine until you start pulling the extra load from the headlights. Disconnect the ground wire for either where it attaches to the body and make sure the paint is not interfering with the metal to metal connection. Maybe one or the other. Youmight also check the ground terminal where it connects to the turn signal base. Lets get that thing on the road Steve!

[Nepenthe88]

After replacing my alternator I find I'm having an interesting problem with my Watson wire harness, and figured I would post here to keep the good advice on this product all in one place

...

When I turn the car on (or to the accessory position) My Green Alternator light comes on (I'm running an aftermarket set of gauges so my green alternator light is a non LED bulb in the dash). This light NEVER goes out, which is a problem....

Additionally, if the car is running and you turn the ignition OFF, the car will continue to run as if nothing had happened. I know that if I take the pink wire coming from the harness and pull it from the ignition junction, the car will "turn off". (I'm NOT talking about the wire that goes to the coil / CDI, or one which goes to the ignition, but the third branch which connects to the fuse box-- that's the one I pull off) Here's a picture of how I have everything wired up... Yes... I made things more complex by adding in a Pertronix and a CDI

In an attempt to solve the problem I have driven the car with both the diode and the 20amp fuse in place alternately. In both cases the alt light stays on continuously. I have also driven the car with the pink wire I mentioned disconnected. In this scenario the car will turn OFF when the key is turned off, but... the alt light will never go on AND voltage (at the gauge and on the meter) only hovers around 10.5, indicating to me the car is not charging correctly.

Obviously something is hooked up wrong, and I could use a little advice!

The solution to this problem is alluded to in this post by ashman40 when he talks about current backflow into the ignition circuit... unfortunately I can't suss out the answer:

[Nepenthe88]

SOLVED!

This seems to work. All it required was a diode before the dummy light. SO. for those who choose to follow in my footsteps, this is the proper way to wire a Mallory Hyfire CDI with a Pertronix unit with an internally regulated alternator:

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[gysgtbigdaddy]

I've beaten this horse well after it's been pronounced dead. But I am not quite catching on when it comes to the horn. I have my actual horn grounded and the other connecter going to "Horn Out"...Then I have a wire from "Horn SW" to my actual horn button. I'm missing something I know. Would this work?

[fclmscott]

Assuming your using the watsons modular fuse box with integrated relays, you would not need to use an additional relay as you have pictured in your drawing. The horn relay is already installed in the new fuse box. With everything hooked up correctly this is what happens, the wire from the horn button ( which is grounded to the chassis when pushed) provides a ground path to the "built in" horn relay on the new fuse box. The 12 volt out side of the this relay is actually the "HORN OUT" spot on the terminal strip and provides power to the horn vias the relay when the horn button is pushed.

If you were to remove the relay from your drawing it would be correct.

[72lowandslow]

I have a 72 beetle with a watsons kit and I followed all the instructions from you guys and everything seems to work except my turn signal relay is always clicking even with only the key turned on nothing else. Is this Normal? Thanks for the help.