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1970 Fuse Box Conversions
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:06 pm    Post subject: 1970 Fuse Box Conversions Reply with quote

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Thanks goes out to Karl and bigbore for the photos.
Before you go ripping your fuse box out. Disconnect your battery. Please number and make a schematic of the wires on your box. Hardware stores in the electrical Dept. have number stickers for this purpose, or some masking tape with an indulible ink pen will work. Take some pictures. Good Luck

Does your 1970 fuse box look like this?
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1970 411 937 505 A (Notice yellow color bakelite) from what I understand manufactured for half the year.
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1970 411 937 505 A (Notice white colored plastic) manufactured for the last part of 70.
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Notice the locations of the three connectors that are bridged. You want the 71 or 72 fuse box to look like this when you are done.
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1971 411 937 505 B here again notice the location of the connectors.
1972 411 937 505 C Note:(could not locate picture) does not have the three bridged connector. You will need to use the three bridged connector out of your 70 fuse box. slightly different but it will fit no problem.
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Simply switch these two connectors.
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To remove the connectors insert a tool. In this case a modified screw driver, into the slot as indicated and pry against the tang on the connector and push the connector out working it out evenly.
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This is the tang. After you get them out you will need to pry this out slightly so it will engage again in the slott. Easy does it. These connectors are spot welded together and will come apart.
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Time for a little cleaning. Make a paste out of the vinegar and salt and using a brush clean the terminals or let them soak. Important to rinse, dry and apply some contact protectant or they will patena.
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Thats what I'm talking about.
Now build your box. When you are done the connectors should be in the same locations as the picture above. You will need to use the flasher relay from the 1971 box.
You will have to connect the Blu/R wire from the turn signal indicator bulbs (you know the ones that both flash together no matter which way your turning, another tech tip) to the large blue wire in pin 12 of flasher relay.
You will notice that there is a brown jumper wire from the flasher relay to the door buzzer. Cut that at the flasher relay pin. Connect the flasher relay brown wire to the grounded wire. Connect the door buzzer brown wire to the drivers side door switch.
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Last edited by Tcash on Mon Jul 24, 2017 8:31 pm; edited 3 times in total
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HarryFD
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great post but I decided to go a different way. I am really paranoid about pulling out old electrical connectors as I have had issues with being able to reuse them and sourcing replacements can be dicey.

The downside of my approach is that you will need to be sure you let anyone working with your fuse box know that your fuse box conforms to the 1971 setup and has a 1971 flasher in place of the the 1970 style unit.

I obtained a 71 fuse box. I cleaned the contacts with my dremel and a wire brush.

After carefully studying the wiring diagrams for botht he 70 and 71 bus, I noticed the following changes were needed to wire the 71 box into my 70 box with out moving the jumpered connections. I did this by verifying the wire colors and sizes are the same and connected to the same devices.

postion 1970 ... position 1971
1 ..................... 1
2 ..................... 2
3 ..................... 3
4 ..................... 4
5 ..................... 5
6 ..................... 6
7 ..................... 7
8 ..................... 11
9 ..................... 12
10 ..................... 10
11 ..................... 8
12 ..................... 9

As TCash notes: "You will have to connect the Blu/R wire from the turn signal indicator bulbs (you know the ones that both flash together no matter which way your turning, another tech tip) to the large blue wire in pin 12 of flasher relay.

You will notice that there is a brown jumper wire from the flasher relay to the door buzzer. Cut that at the flasher relay pin. Connect the flasher relay brown wire to the grounded wire. Connect the door buzzer brown wire to the drivers side door switch."

As he also notes, I needed to replace the 1970 flasher unit with a 3 pin 1971 style unit as well. My buzzer is wired in but the buzzer unit itself is severely corroded and since it is a nuisance, I decided not to replace it.
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doug-ocon
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my old 70 westyI got a second fuse box and mounted it on the opposite side( slips right in to the right hand drive location. I then mounted a marine battery with a relay that only linked it to the other battery when the motor was running ( so it would charge). I fed the second fuse box off the marine battery and then ran all the accessories (radio, interior lights , fans, CB , waterpump off the 2nd fuse box /marine battery.... I could run it to dead with the bus parked for the weekend....and then just start the bus and charge it back up
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mike202
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 8:18 am    Post subject: fusebox Reply with quote

My '70 fusebox was falling to pieces so I got a nice '71 fusebox and used this guide. Apart from all the wires and remembering where they all went it's not too difficult.
Thanks to HarryFD and Tcash for the info. Cool

Mike
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HarryFD
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:02 am    Post subject: Re: fusebox Reply with quote

mike202 wrote:
My '70 fusebox was falling to pieces so I got a nice '71 fusebox and used this guide. Apart from all the wires and remembering where they all went it's not too difficult.
Thanks to HarryFD and Tcash for the info. Cool

Mike


Mike,

Glad to help.
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sweet write up! just did this to a 70...then i found the write up....Laughing
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Whistler
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tha.me for the write up. My 70 box just split in half just as we had 're done 96% of a new loom. I bought a 72 box, what I don't understand is if I am using all the connectors from my 70 why do wires need to be changed? Surely it's the same connections setup with a different coloured box? What am I missing?

P.s. nice tip with the salt and vinegar, came up a treat!
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure I understand what you don't understand Confused Razz

The later box has different relay plugs and the wires to those are different. Also some of the linked together circuits are in different fuse positions. Not too hard to rearrange it while it's out.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
I'm not sure I understand what you don't understand Confused Razz

The later box has different relay plugs and the wires to those are different. Also some of the linked together circuits are in different fuse positions. Not too hard to rearrange it while it's out.


I'll start again Smile Teaches me for writing on my phone.

My A fusebox split in half last week after we had run a brand new loom. Not sure how it happened as no one touched it for a week.

Someone who had a 72 (C) box for sale directed me to this thread. The box came yesterday and I took all the pins out of it, so all I am left with is a plastic box and a pile of the pins the fuses go in.

I may answer my own question here, but some clarification would be great as those pins were an arse to take out and I don't want to fry my brand new loom.

My plan is just to copy the fuse holders from the 70 setup and put them back in the 72 box in the same way so the layout is identical. I.E Pic 4 in first post.

Is the reason for changing some of the wires over just so the relays fit in the box underneath? As presumably I can just wire the relays up so they don't sit in the holes in the fusebox and that would mean I can just copy the wiring diagram as it would be for a 70? Also using all the same relays I have already.

Does that explain it any better? Confused
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 6:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whistler wrote:
Does that explain it any better? Confused

Yes...yes it does Smile

Sounds like a reasonable plan, the 72 box will work as is but you'd have a freaky hybrid fuse layout and the diagram would get scrambled, rearranging the fuse clips solves that. There's nothing wrong with using the later relays and the holders if you wish, neatens things up under there.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome. Confirms what I was thinking Smile

I think I'll stick with my plan and have it a little messy, easier for me in the long run I'm thinking.

Thanks again, much appreciated.
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Bulli Klinik
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went a different route. I really like the blade style fuses. These marine grade fuse boxes can be configured however you like with jumper bridges. I have mine set up to match the factory wiring diagram. I reconfigured the fuse box mount to hold the new boxes. I'm a stickler for originality, but chasing odd electrical problems and picking fuses up off the floor of the Bus for years was a drag. The box is so buried you cant even see it.

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Andy70Bus
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:21 am    Post subject: Male spade connector ID/nomenclature Reply with quote

Hey all -

I am planning to go the route that Bulli Klinik describes above, using the same Blue Sea fuse blocks.

In his third picture down, he shows how he configured the fuse block jumpers AND it shows 90-degree male spade connectors screwed on each terminal to connect the stock bus wiring to it. The fuse blocks do not come with these little angled connectors so I was trying to find some, but I can't. Clearly I don't know the right nomenclature to search for, can anyone help?

Thanks,
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you must re invent the wheel......


http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/7/category/2
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like Bulli, I chose an aftermarket solution, a ProStreet wiring board from Leash Electronics. This consolidated all of the relays, fuses, and flashers into one small footprint. It also turned all my factory switches into low current devices which should extend their life...

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bulli Klinik wrote:
I went a different route. I really like the blade style fuses. These marine grade fuse boxes can be configured however you like with jumper bridges. I have mine set up to match the factory wiring diagram. I reconfigured the fuse box mount to hold the new boxes. I'm a stickler for originality, but chasing odd electrical problems and picking fuses up off the floor of the Bus for years was a drag. The box is so buried you cant even see it.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I hate to revive an older post, but my 70's fusebox is cracking, looking to do what you did, can you post pic of the underside and it installed now too so I can see if this is something I can figure out who to do? thank you kindly
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