The Type 4 Engine Thread FAQ

[beetleman217]

I do not want to replace the lifters. All I want to know is if the push rods and heads can be put back on the engine without having to worry about the hydraulic lifters, that never left their bores.
_________________
If all else fails, stop using all else

1977 Westfalia
1961 Beetle

[nathansnathan]

If left for only a few days parked at an angle the lifters will bleed down in my experience. To fire up the motor to the sound of all 8 clacking, you'd have to wait through 10 minutes of that racket. I'd find it nerve racking, thinking all that banging around could be causing some premature wear on the cam. So yeah, I would do it, despite the royal pain of doing it.

[Tcash]

[beetleman217]

[williamM]

[Tcash]

[Busstom]

[Busstom]

beetleman217, you said you got new heads. Did somebody spec them for your hydraulic lifters? I ask because hydraulics use stiffer valve springs/or shims under the springs to produce a stiffer pressure, so just be certain you're set up properly.

If a magnet grabs ahold of your pushrods, you've surely got hydraulics.

And like nathansnathan said, if there's ANY chance that any lifters under spring pressure had bled down before you took things apart, this will WHOLLY complicate your initial setup and valve adjustments...this is to say, now that you've had things apart, you WILL need to readjust all of them, no "if's or but's" about it. So be prepared.

[Tcash]

Lifters Hydraulic or Solid ?

[DJC1211]

Hey guys,

So yesterday my dad and I worked on the 79 bus I got a few weeks ago. The previous owner installed duel weber carbs on it although we have the fuel injection in a box. We are going to try to get it running with the carbs. It hasn't been running in at least 4 years. The hydraulic lifters had all kinds of air in them and after doing some research and knowing I won't be driving it much decided to get solid lifters. We installed the new lifters, pushrods, pushrod tube seals. The hydraulic lifters didn't have any strange wear on them. Anyway the engine is running like crap. The 2 cylinders on the driver side aren't running but they have compression and the engine is quite noisy. More so than typical solid lifter sounding engine. We are getting spark and fuel. The valves were adjusted to 6 thousandths. We tried a different set of plugs and they were coming out dark. I'm sure I'm leaving stuff out. Growing up my dad had and worked on 71 buses so this is a learning experience. My dad doesn't think it's looking favorable but I'd figure I would ask the more experienced. If anyone could point me at a thread or have any ideas I would appreciate it.

[Amskeptic]

[DJC1211]

[jtauxe]

Why not go back to your hydraulic lifters?

Although, if I understand what I've read here correctly, you would have to have marked which lifter goes with which valve, so that they are reinstalled in the same place that they came from.
_________________
John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD

[Tcash]

Or have the Hyd lifters resurfaced and run them in.
Tcash

[galencurrington]

I'm working on a 79 Cali bus with fi we are going to put the fi back on it and almost done my question is we live in ky I know I have to run the co2 sensor but do I have to run the cat ky doesn't care just wondering if it would read correctly if I took it off or can I run an aftermarket exhaust with the co2 sensor still on. The co2 sensor is before the cat just didn't know if it reads back pressure.
_________________
"asking and getting are two different things"

[SamboSamba22]

A year into it, and finally I find a type 4 topic thread.
Making a comment now to help find this in the future. When the good stuff comes back.
Sam
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[SGKent]

[Gnp]

wow! this thread is gold to me.
removed 1.8 914 engine in 89 or 90 and am finishing, finally. I need the two pieces of sheet metal along the bottom sides near the front, both left and right pieces.I have two boxes of extra sheet metal. I am eager to part with.
Live in Long Beach; local deal would be soooooo convenient.
Also have at least two extra axels w joints that I repacked and put new boots on in the 90's. Misplaced them so I ooght a pair of new Chinese ones from Rock auto which I have installed in my '73 Westy and they- the ones I repacked. are also available to a good home for a modest price
Leaving the country at the end of the month and am eager to thin out my possessions.....
G

[The Dubbernaut]

Finally scored some engines for my bus! My entire throttle pedal, cable, assembly, and FI stuff we're all pulled out of the bus along with the engine from the PO. I'm reading through the VW engine book but had a few questions for the veterans in this thread;

1. We're only certain engines equipped with mechanical fuel pumps?

2. Can any type 4 engine be ran with dual carbs?

3. What engine would be best for low/mid range torque? 1700, 1800, or 2000?

I ended up with a bare AW case, a CB with heads, and a GE with everything but heads. I don't have issues with spending the money to build any of these engines, just wanted to field some questions or get directions to some debates on Samba with plentiful info! My engine goals are based on pulling a small trailer with a vintage dirt bike or two with some basic camping gear in the cab.

Thanks for any help!
_________________
2012 Tiguan 4motion
2 Corrado's
3 Beetle's
76 Bus
2 Baja's
66 Pigalle Squareback
80 Rabbit
80 Rabbit Pickup
and still collecting!

[timvw7476]

1. pre '75 have fuel pump pad
2. any type IV can run dual carbs, but F.I. bus has camshaft calibrated for F.I.
3. 2.0 has more low end torque, and the camshaft that "shuts off" sooner
than a similar 1700 or 1800.