The Type 4 Engine Thread FAQ

[The Dubbernaut]

[Bleyseng]

[fes]

So I'm helping someone out who's '72 engine has given up the ghost..He's managed to find a 2000cc GD complete engine from a '78..it came with a transmission which does not appear to be a 091 or even a 5 rib.It was soppsedley all together at one point before he gave it to a couple of questionable "mechanics" who stripped the EFI components and somehow lost the flywheel before skipping town with his$$
Here's where I could use some help, (I've searched, maybe not hard enough)
Can someone give me a comprehensive list of interchangeble parts between a 1700 and 2000cc? or maybe a list of parts that wont swap over is easier?
Obviously the heads and P/cs are different, and I know the tins are slightly different in some ways and the flywheels are bigger diameter from '76 on.
Can the smaller flywheel work on the 2L?
Bigger flywheel work on .002 Trans? (maybe a dumb question)
Tins? fan housing?
Look forward to your list and input
_________________
'68 Campmobile-Pedro
'15 Golf-Stella Blau
'56 Oval-The Turd (for now)

[busdaddy]

All year tins fit the engine as well as the hole in the bus body, the differences center around what exhaust system and induction system is in play. The upper stuff can be made to work either way, it's the lower sleds that are exhaust system unique.
The little flywheel fits the 2l (set endplay of course), I think you can make the big flywheel fit an 002 with some relief grinding, easier to swap bellhousings though.
Internal engine differences are crank, rods, P&C's and heads, the FI engine has no place for a mechanical fuel pump so add an electric pump as well as a pressure regulator to the estimate.
The 2l doesn't play well with the 002's ratios, lots of low end torque but it runs out of pull before the gears top out on hills.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Слава Україні!

[fes]

Thanks Busdaddy, I was sad not see an .091 with the motor he scored, so I'd figure we'd just set that trans aside and install the 2L in his exsisting .002 trans in the bus..
He asked about tracking down the EFI components which I replied it would be nice, but the 1972 bus never had the provisions for the wonderful fuel injected beast, so I have talked him into a good set of duals
_________________
'68 Campmobile-Pedro
'15 Golf-Stella Blau
'56 Oval-The Turd (for now)

[busdaddy]

The only thing needed for FI is a dual outlet tank and a place to put the ECU, if he can get the stuff do the FI.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[SGKent]

the main problem with FI these days is that Bosch stopped making some of the remaining available parts about 3 years ago. We are seeing inventory go to zero with no warning on many of the parts instantaneously when warehouses run out. In the future used, aftermarket and homemade FI parts may be all that are available. I would advise him to collect good spare parts if he choose to go the FI route - which is a stable product. We love how our FI bus runs.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[fes]

I agree with both of you guys.. one step at a time here,I did mention he'd need the later tank when I met with him..he's not overly interested in sourcing one..he's got a weber progressive on his 1700 now that he thought we could use..I said I have no interest in being married to the project with that carb setup and he agreed with my suggestion of going with a nice set of IDAs.. I have no idea of the history of this 2L, my first step is to get the old 1700 with the giant hole in the top of the crankcase out, rob the flywheel off of it so I can check the endplay and go from there..this bus needs a lot of work from what I could see from the 20 minutes I spent looking at it, but I said we'd see what we could do to get him rolling for the spring
-Thanks fellas
_________________
'68 Campmobile-Pedro
'15 Golf-Stella Blau
'56 Oval-The Turd (for now)

[timvw7476]

without a 091 gearbox, the 1800, & 2.0L, they don't like shallow 4th gears.
take a very good look at that trans, the ring & pinion number, if you can
find it, if it is proper to 1972, the 1700 or 1800 piston/cylinder set will
make you very happy. There's nothing wrong with a bus engine that revs,
if you stick a 2.0L behind it, you'll wind up with 15 mpg, no matter if it's
city or highway. A properly geared 2.0L can go over 20 mpg easily,if you're
not speeding all the time.

[fes]

[notchboy]

One of the more pivotal jumps in T4 Bus motor combo for the Westfalia Bus.

I lucked out on a purchase from the Philippines. A Raby Camper Special Kit - un used and for sale - these are presently out of production and unavailable. I got the heads, cam and lots of other goodies intended to make your stock 2 liter perform better. Well I got to thinkin and asked several others whom I trusted opinions on - can I make this bigger beyond the stock 2liter? As I needed to buy the Pistons/cylinders, crank and rods. Could the stock FI cope and adjust to the increased volume?

There were two motors that I knew of that took the CS beyond. One Raby built and one that dude built. I heard through the grapevine that dude was happy with his increase and could of went bigger. So I expounded off of that.

I now have a 78x96 - 2282cc CS motor running stock FI. Power is great and so far feels like the FI has no issues carrying the extra volume. Can I go faster with more power with carbs? Im sure - but this more than fits my bill for now.


Link

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[Tcash]

Smooth. Have you hooked up an Air flow meter.
Tcash

[busdaddy]

[Daddylolo]

Is there a difference on oil pressure release valves between CU and CJ blocks?

My CJ is failing to cool the oil and I think the valve is not opening to let it flow to the oil cooler. Maybe a wrong size spring is in place. Is that possible?
_________________
'70 hot rod bug
'77 hawaiian bay van
'46 Buick Eight
'67 Ghia

[Wildthings]

[Daddylolo]

I have a oil temp gauge, it reaches 120 C in 30 miles if I do 55mph. It only maintains the cool if I do 35/40mph and it takes time.

What I mean, is there a chance the spring doesn't release the valve because pressure is too high and oil never goes to the cooler? Maybe there is a way to measure the pressure.

I've noticed the two blocks have different springs, the CU has a longer one.
_________________
'70 hot rod bug
'77 hawaiian bay van
'46 Buick Eight
'67 Ghia

[Wildthings]

[Bleyseng]

[SGKent]

Bentley has the loaded spring lengths and the pounds. One can use a block of wood set to the correct length next to the spring sitting on a bathroom scale to see how the spring loads.

The oil washes the piston skirts and heads also to help cool them. Anything that is adding extra heat there - piston size, compression ratio etc., will heat the oil up too. Shroud cooling flap must be in place for the oil cooler to get the correct air flow. 120 C / 248 F is hot at 55 mph unless you are bucking a strong headwind or climbing from sea level the whole time. Most T4 would be around 180 F - 200 F / 88 C at that speed and temp.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Daddylolo]