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EA812
Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2008
Posts: 1223
Location: North central, CT
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 Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 8:54 am Post subject: |
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| Way to go! See that wasn't to bad pulling that trans. As for the Bug Me video stuff I have even contacted him on a few questions. Rick has been a big help. |
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sportin-wood
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Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2006
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 4:46 pm Post subject: |
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| EA812 wrote: |
| Way to go! See that wasn't to bad pulling that trans. As for the Bug Me video stuff I have even contacted him on a few questions. Rick has been a big help. |
Thanks! I never thought about contacting Rick with questions. Any idea what his email address is? I'm not fixing this to be a show car by any means, but I'm thinking I'll be pressure washing and degreasing all of the nastier areas and spraying it with a protective paint.
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sportin-wood
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Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2006
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 6:23 pm Post subject: |
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Out with the old...
And in with the new (Ooohh....)...
Now if only my seals ordered from Wolfsburg West would get here!!
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EA812
Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2008
Posts: 1223
Location: North central, CT
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| Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:44 am Post subject: |
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| sportin-wood wrote: |
| EA812 wrote: |
| Way to go! See that wasn't to bad pulling that trans. As for the Bug Me video stuff I have even contacted him on a few questions. Rick has been a big help. |
Thanks! I never thought about contacting Rick with questions. Any idea what his email address is? I'm not fixing this to be a show car by any means, but I'm thinking I'll be pressure washing and degreasing all of the nastier areas and spraying it with a protective paint. |
I think I came up with the e-mail address from the Bug Me video web site. When u order from there u pretty much go through him. It's a small operation. I love the one video u can hear the guy next door mowing the lawn;) |
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NCdad
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Joined: August 28, 2008
Posts: 1525
Location: South Carolina
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sportin-wood
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Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2006
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:29 am Post subject: |
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Finally had time for a little more progress. Installed the axles (getting that C-clip installed on each axle was a MO-FO!!), axle tubes, and axle boots.
These are the Wolfsburg West axle boots, but I wasn't too crazy about the clamps they came with, so I opted for radiator hose clamps with the screw head facing semi-downward in case I ever need access from down below. I haven't tightened the smaller clamp yet as I want to wait until after the transmission is fully reinstalled.
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"Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman. He's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it." --- Jeff Spicoli
Last edited by sportin-wood on Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:46 am; edited 1 time in total |
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sportin-wood
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Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2006
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:33 am Post subject: |
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Next, I took on the task of replacing the shift rod bushing that I've read horror stories about. I hadn't even checked the condition of the existing bushing, but since I'm changing out most if not all seals, bushings, etc., I figured I'd change it out too....and it was a good thing because the one it had had disintegrated! So I started by removing the front access plate.
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Last edited by sportin-wood on Sun Jul 20, 2014 10:42 am; edited 1 time in total |
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sportin-wood
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Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2006
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:41 am Post subject: |
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Getting the shift rod slid out the front access hole was a piece of cake. Once out, I inserted the new shift rod bushing that I was afraid was going to slip out of my hold and into the tunnel, but I was fortunate that it "snapped" right into place.
Next step, I greased up the bushing liberally. I also took the shift rod and greased up the entire length of it. I slid it back through the front access hole, got it started in the bushing, and had to use a 4' 1'x1' piece of wood to push it through. The grease from the shift rod built up around the bushing, but I'm sure that won't be any kind of issue.
I changed out the shift coupler, and all-in-all, this process was TONS easier than I had anticipated. *WHEW!*
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NCdad
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Joined: August 28, 2008
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Location: South Carolina
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sportin-wood
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Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2006
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 9:20 pm Post subject: |
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Finally got my transmission put in place. Let me tell you - it's a pain in the ass to do by yourself! So, while I'm not doing a full detailed restoration, I am replacing most rubber parts and cables like e-brake cable, axle boots, Bowden tube, accelerator cable, etc. Hopefully this will keep me from having to make more frequent repairs in the future. Next step, rear brakes.
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sportin-wood
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Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2006
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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Getting the rear brakes, bearings, and seals done. Had a bonehead moment - was having trouble getting the new brake shoes to go in and couldn't understand what the problem was. Finally dug out the old set I hadn't thrown away and realized I was using the wider front brake shoes by mistake! Hey, it's my first time doing this stuff! 
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sportin-wood
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Joined: September 12, 2010
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Location: Texas
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| Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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Not a lot of progress, but I did wire wheel my front brake backing plates and all 4 drums. I painted the drums with Eastwood's Brake Gray and the backing plates with Eastwood's satin black brake paint. Excellent products.
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flyboy161
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Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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sportin-wood
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Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2006
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 10:32 pm Post subject: |
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| flyboy161 wrote: |
| Great job so far! |
Thanks flyboy!
My snail's pace continues. Been having a hellish time getting the tie rod ends separated from the spindles. Tried soaking with penetrating oil for days, that didn't work. Tried heat - that didn't work (all I did was manage to catch the rubber on fire.)
Going to Harbor Freight to see if I can get something to help get these separated. Will update....
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EA812
Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2008
Posts: 1223
Location: North central, CT
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| Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 10:59 am Post subject: |
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| they make a tie rod end separator but I think is $60.00 JCW had it for ten but I never jumped on it now they don't sell it. I've done it with a pickle fork that I got on loan from the local Autozone. I had to make a plate to keep it from slipping off but it worked. |
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sportin-wood
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Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2006
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 9:46 pm Post subject: |
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| EA812 wrote: |
| they make a tie rod end separator but I think is $60.00 JCW had it for ten but I never jumped on it now they don't sell it. I've done it with a pickle fork that I got on loan from the local Autozone. I had to make a plate to keep it from slipping off but it worked. |
Thanks for the suggestion
I ended up going to Harbor Freight and picked up this ball joint separator for $20
It fit perfectly on the tie rod ends.
A few turns of a ratchet & a 3/4" socket.....
..., and "POP"! It popped right loose. It worked perfectly on all of the tie rod ends.
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sportin-wood
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Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2006
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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My next task will be to replace the sway bar bushings and get new ball joints pressed into the torsion arms.
I know a few people will be wondering why, if I'm going through all of this trouble, am I not painting and detailing every single part of the undercarriage (like the beam and other related parts), and that is because my main objective is to make this a reliable daily driver, not a show car by any means. My goal is to have this car completed and running sometime in 2016, when my bug is 50 years old. 
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EA812
Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2008
Posts: 1223
Location: North central, CT
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| Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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| sportin-wood wrote: |
| EA812 wrote: |
| they make a tie rod end separator but I think is $60.00 JCW had it for ten but I never jumped on it now they don't sell it. I've done it with a pickle fork that I got on loan from the local Autozone. I had to make a plate to keep it from slipping off but it worked. |
Thanks for the suggestion
I ended up going to Harbor Freight and picked up this ball joint separator for $20
It fit perfectly on the tie rod ends.
A few turns of a ratchet & a 3/4" socket.....
..., and "POP"! It popped right loose. It worked perfectly on all of the tie rod ends.
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That's great! I need to get one of those. |
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sportin-wood
Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2006
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 8:45 pm Post subject: |
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| EA812 wrote: |
| That's great! I need to get one of those. |
I tell you what - it really was a life saver (and a knuckle saver as I had banged my hands up pretty good trying to force them off without any kind of specialty tool). I'm sure you can order one online for the same price if there isn't a HF near you.
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sportin-wood
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Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2006
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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Moving along...took advantage of some decent weather and worked on the front end. Replaced the torsion arm seals, needle bearings, ball joints, and the biggest PITA of the day was replacing the stabilizer bar bushings. The old ones were cracking badly. Another Harbor Freight tool helped out BIG time - it was a giant pair of channel locks I picked up for about $5. It probably took me an hour and a half to change them out. I would recommend the upper torsion arms be removed if you're replacing these bushings. It gave me room to tap down in the bracket with a hammer to get it seated against the lower torsion bar while pinching on the bottom part of the bracket with channel locks in order to slide the retaining sleeve on.
Next will be the tie rod end replacing, mounting the shocks, installing new brakes, brake lines, master cylinder....man, I really need to get busy! 
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