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A tricksy one this is...
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 10:44 pm    Post subject: A tricksy one this is... Reply with quote

so i got a 78 westy with a 2.0 hydro valves, point and condensor. 4 speed manual.

New:
alternator (duralast), regulator (black plastic), dash lights (2.3 watt)

history:
problem has been happening for at least a year, but intensified as i add lighting and radios and such (obviously), but still happens when everything is off, which is why i cant figure it out. new alt, and reg didnt fix it.

problem:
my alternator light comes on when i start the car, goes away when i rev the motor, and then show up dimly at night when any lights are on. up until yesterday this was okay, but now, as of tonight, the light is on dimly no mater what is on, or off.

what should i check? i need to get a new belt, as mines a bit oil soaked from a spill i had... Embarassed, but it still turns the engine over with a wrench, so i hadnt worried about it yet.

any thoughts? and i couldnt find anything on searching about it being on dim...Confused
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Wild Bill
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Start with checking out put from Alt. Then from Volt Regulator to Battery.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wild Bill wrote:
Start with checking out put from Alt. Then from Volt Regulator to Battery.


will do. i was planning on checking voltage tomorrow anyways with the meter...just never got to it today...Sad
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The dim light tells you there's a difference in the voltage between the alternator and the front of the bus, start with the big red/white wire to the fuse box and clean and tighten all the connections, then move on towards the ignition switch, etc...
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had this issue several years back. Mine was resloved with a simple swap of the correct fuse in the fuse box. Don't remember exactly which fuse it was though but I do remember it being a fuse due to the one I pulled was the in-correct operating fuse for it's slot.

Last edited by udidwht on Fri Mar 30, 2012 2:48 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

udidwht wrote:
Had this issue several years back. Mine was resloved with a simple swap of the correct fuse in the fuse box. Don't remember exactly which fuse it was though but I do remember it beng the fuse due to the one I pulled was the in-correct operating fuse.


one a year spin each fuse in the holder so it makes good contact and corrosion doesn't build up.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
udidwht wrote:
Had this issue several years back. Mine was resloved with a simple swap of the correct fuse in the fuse box. Don't remember exactly which fuse it was though but I do remember it beng the fuse due to the one I pulled was the in-correct operating fuse.


one a year spin each fuse in the holder so it makes good contact and corrosion doesn't build up.


i have done that, and ill do it again. ill also get my bentley out and figure out exactly what sizes to put where.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
The dim light tells you there's a difference in the voltage between the alternator and the front of the bus, start with the big red/white wire to the fuse box and clean and tighten all the connections, then move on towards the ignition switch, etc...



would dual batteries do anything to my light? my second battery isnt installed, but there are quite a few wires connected to the cables....
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm Ive got the same issue going on... don't think I can remember ever changing a fuse? its been awhile anyways...Think I'll take a peak under the dash and see if anything needs to be cleaned up.. and give them a spin..
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so when the car is running, and the light is still on (before i rev it to turn the light off), i get 12.5v, when i rev it i get 12.8 volts, no mater what (1000 rpm or 4k rpm) and i got 12.36 volts at the positive side of the coil while running.

i have a feeling that my low voltage issue is causing a minor misfire too. its running fine no matter how far i drive, but wont restart on its own whenever i shut it off....any ideas?



still gotta get a new belt.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

clean all your grounds ,check the eng to body strap and clean all the fuses,dirty grounds cause crazy problems
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spun the fuses and wiggled as many of the wires as i could get to on the back of the fuse panel, including the red and white wire, no change. Sad
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well then it's time you become one with the volt/OHM meter, test every junction for a Mv drop, somethings not playing well with others.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think there are two different issues at play here to be honest so keep your eyes and your mind open to possibilities.

If you had said "I start it up and the light is on until I rev it, then it stays off" there are a few answers to that on it's own. One of the most common is extra load on the alternator light wire, like for an aux battery relay. I have this problem. Plus the lower the main battery gets, the higher I have to rev it before the light turns off. pretty sure it's all to do with providing the additional power needed to excite the alternator initially. Even the wrong wattage bulb in the alternator light can play havoc.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RatCamper wrote:
I think there are two different issues at play here to be honest so keep your eyes and your mind open to possibilities.

If you had said "I start it up and the light is on until I rev it, then it stays off" there are a few answers to that on it's own. One of the most common is extra load on the alternator light wire, like for an aux battery relay. I have this problem. Plus the lower the main battery gets, the higher I have to rev it before the light turns off. pretty sure it's all to do with providing the additional power needed to excite the alternator initially. Even the wrong wattage bulb in the alternator light can play havoc.


so ill swap a 1.3 watt back in and see what happens....hmm...
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Well then it's time you become one with the volt/OHM meter, test every junction for a Mv drop, somethings not playing well with others.


am i going to just go from the battery through the entire charging system? and what am i looking for?
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuartzickefoose wrote:
RatCamper wrote:
I think there are two different issues at play here to be honest so keep your eyes and your mind open to possibilities.

If you had said "I start it up and the light is on until I rev it, then it stays off" there are a few answers to that on it's own. One of the most common is extra load on the alternator light wire, like for an aux battery relay. I have this problem. Plus the lower the main battery gets, the higher I have to rev it before the light turns off. pretty sure it's all to do with providing the additional power needed to excite the alternator initially. Even the wrong wattage bulb in the alternator light can play havoc.


so ill swap a 1.3 watt back in and see what happens....hmm...


yes, absolutely! Didn't realise that the dash light swap included that. You'll also come across people having a pig of a time if they put an LED in place. The only way that can work right is if a resistor is put in parallel to get the circuit back to OE from an electrical point of view. Remember your charging circuit won't work if the little bulb blows so the wrong wattage can mess with it too.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RatCamper wrote:
Stuartzickefoose wrote:
RatCamper wrote:
I think there are two different issues at play here to be honest so keep your eyes and your mind open to possibilities.

If you had said "I start it up and the light is on until I rev it, then it stays off" there are a few answers to that on it's own. One of the most common is extra load on the alternator light wire, like for an aux battery relay. I have this problem. Plus the lower the main battery gets, the higher I have to rev it before the light turns off. pretty sure it's all to do with providing the additional power needed to excite the alternator initially. Even the wrong wattage bulb in the alternator light can play havoc.


so ill swap a 1.3 watt back in and see what happens....hmm...


yes, absolutely! Didn't realise that the dash light swap included that. You'll also come across people having a pig of a time if they put an LED in place. The only way that can work right is if a resistor is put in parallel to get the circuit back to OE from an electrical point of view. Remember your charging circuit won't work if the little bulb blows so the wrong wattage can mess with it too.


didnt know that...ill find the stock bulb tomorrow and get back to ya.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuartzickefoose wrote:
so when the car is running, and the light is still on (before i rev it to turn the light off), i get 12.5v, when i rev it i get 12.8 volts, no mater what (1000 rpm or 4k rpm) and i got 12.36 volts at the positive side of the coil while running.

i have a feeling that my low voltage issue is causing a minor misfire too. its running fine no matter how far i drive, but wont restart on its own whenever i shut it off....any ideas?



still gotta get a new belt.


just reread this,---you have no charge,i.e ,its not charging ,you need to be looking for 13.8-14.2 V or so go with fixing up the exciter cct then ,DONT wiggle wires ,remove the bolt clean the connection and replace it ,it really does make a huge diff
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

blue77bay wrote:
Stuartzickefoose wrote:
so when the car is running, and the light is still on (before i rev it to turn the light off), i get 12.5v, when i rev it i get 12.8 volts, no mater what (1000 rpm or 4k rpm) and i got 12.36 volts at the positive side of the coil while running.

i have a feeling that my low voltage issue is causing a minor misfire too. its running fine no matter how far i drive, but wont restart on its own whenever i shut it off....any ideas?



still gotta get a new belt.


just reread this,---you have no charge,i.e ,its not charging ,you need to be looking for 13.8-14.2 V or so go with fixing up the exciter cct then ,DONT wiggle wires ,remove the bolt clean the connection and replace it ,it really does make a huge diff


14 volts is kinda what i figured, so ill take the alt out and get it replaced (2 year warrenty i think, maybe 5 months old)

as far as wiggling, im wiggling the spade connectors and the fuses, but ill get a little deeper into that if the alt doesnt fix it.
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