Quick timing question

[awalls]

First of this was my first time timing my motor.

It's a cheap no name 009. I read that the cheap 009s are notorious for being all over the place when in comes to consistency. That being said, I first staticly timed it using a light bulb and following my idiots guide. I then started the bus but it kept getting close to dying. I then used a timing light to time it to 30 BDC. But the strobe never seem to pause on exactly 30 BDC. It flickered a bit. (is that normal?). So my question is it seemed I had to move the 009 quite a bit from the static position to get to 30BDC, is that normal? Thanks guys and gals.
_________________
'64 Bug
'58 Kombi

[oarse]

Yes, that's normal with a cheap 009 (or any 009 that I've encountered.) Timing it at full advance is the only safe way to be sure of where it is advancing to.

As for the timing scatter, check the distributor drive pinion end play (sorry but I don't recall the spec off the top of my head, perhaps somebody else here can chime in.) The end play is set with washers below the drive pinion. Be careful you don't let them fall into the case when you do this. The easiest way I have found to remove them is to insert a long screwdriver until you have it in the center of the washers, and then use a magnet (the little pen sized telescopic ones work well) to pull them out around the shaft of the screwdriver (install them in the same fashion.) Sometimes they will stick to the bottom of the distributor drive. You can remove the drive pinion with a pair of needle nose (snap ring work best) pliers if you don't have the tool. While you have it out you can have a look at the timing gear to see if it is chipped/worn.

[krusher]

[yamaducci]

Krusher has a good point that may seem obvious to people who have done this before. There are three timing references that you will hear discussed. The first is static (not running) timing, timing at idle and timing at full advence. Setting the static timing is mainly done to just get it running and to confirm Top Dead Center (TDC of number one piston). Once running, if you are not messing with the factory set distributor curve, then just rev it till the max advance is achieved, then rotate the distributor to factory max advance or the advance max of your choosing and tighten the distributor nut. Usually the max is reached in the 2800-3500 RPM level and depending on your engine combo this needs to be played with to get max power, cooling, efficiency and detonation resistance. It is important to recheck it's advance operation after tightening since the distributor can turn in the case until you get it tight.
Another thing to note is You mentioned BDC (Which is Bottom Dead Center). Just make sure you are referencing BTDC (Before Top Dead Center).
Spark that occurs BTDC is the definition of "Advanced"
_________________
-John Cox
My 2498 Turbo Re-Build Thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5578697#5578697

3rd Brake Light Safety Stars- I still have a couple with blue light left. Email me if interested.

[awalls]

[Glenn]

[awalls]

Yeah like that, maybe a bit more
_________________
'64 Bug
'58 Kombi

[krusher]

[awalls]