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Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2021 5:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild Reply with quote

These are from the comments in the video:

Adding electric-powered rear pop out actuators to an air-cooled VW bug super beetle

Build thread here:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6682431#6682431

Part numbers here:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7570700#7570700
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7093370#7093370

Another similar project here:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLfdXu8r6T_5WjP4wJ5xB2ZhScdAbTVv_z
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 2:42 am    Post subject: Re: Powered rear window pop-out actuators Reply with quote

baxsie wrote:
Way back when, we talked about putting powered rear window pop-out actuators in. Today is that day.

The actuator is one of several I gathered up from various minivans at the local Pull-And-Save. I think it was from a Nissan mini van.

Inital placement and cutting for the actuator:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the start of the hole. It extends into the back side of the fresh air vent:
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More careful & minimal cutting, clearance for the actuator motor. Also more of the cursed foam of death:
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Another test fit:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


We wanted to make a box or "bucket" (think headlight bucket) to keep the inside inside and the outside outside, and preserve the mechanical integrity. Start with a paper prototype:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Move that to some OG metal:
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Sanity check before foldiong the box up:
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Fold up the metal box, trim cut file, etc:
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Then we went back to the car to fiddle the hole until it accepts the box, tryiong to keep the gaps to a minimum:
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is what it looks like from the outside, with the inner metal of the car clearanced around the box:
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once the box is sitting at the correct depth, mark it for folding:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


By now, the paper prototype is a distant memory, and the metal prototype has several fiddly errors. Plus we need right and left copies of the box. So we flattened the metal prototype box, traced and cut two copies, fixing the errors as we went:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Fold up the two new boxes:
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Now we can fold out the mounting flanges trim them and another test fit:
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A couple more views from outside:
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The passenger side went much faster . . . not problem free, but knowing the dimenstions and positions helps:
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Here are the finished boxes. We welded studs in to mount the actuators. We welded up the corners, ground the welds down a bit, smoothed things out and glass beaded them:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is a shot of the test installation. We used screws to hold it until the body folks can fix the rust in these areas. Later the plan is to weld the box into the car to assure mechanical/structural integrity.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So . . . does it work? Brilliantly! Here is a video of operation:

Link


The plan is to have the upholstery folks pad and cover the actuator, ideally there would be a lined hole where the shaft exits, the rest would be covered by the upholstery. If needed we can build a top cover out of metal and screw that fast.


Hi,

Please share the link to buy the same electric motor
Dose it come for right and left?
Is there is another model that can open the popup window wider?
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fabricator john
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2020 5:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild Reply with quote

use indian head shellac on tank gaskets allways seals ive allways used it . been building hot rods and doing restorations well close to 30yrs ,, that stuff works on all of em filler tube o rings too , by the way i absolutely love your a/c compressor bracket,,, fabricator john
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2020 4:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild Reply with quote

Those nuts are designed to be used with some massive spot welder and a special head that can weld all four nubs at once, I'm sure.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

perhaps those nubs on the fender nut are supposed to be drilled out so you can tack weld it, or is it spot weld?? I have to replace a few of mine and that is what I was thinking.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2019 12:16 am    Post subject: Re: Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild Reply with quote

I am glad the pics are back! I followed this topic closely, because the detailed pictures are really useful in my rebuild. Especially on metal work. Congratulations on your work, you got a very solid and beautiful car in the en.
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2019 9:10 pm    Post subject: KIck-AZZ Images are (mostly) back. Reply with quote

We had a little complication with the baxsie image server. A "simple" upgrade of the OS then a reboot and . . . it would not come back up Sad

It looks like a combination of odd hardware ("fake RAID" or "software RAID"), combined with a non-standard OS installation and then errors trying to do the upgrade doomed. it.

Now we have a new server in place. Dual Xeons, 128GB memory, 256GB OS SSD, 4TB of SSD for the images, and a 5TB backup drive with scripts to backup the OS and image drive.

So in theory . . . all should be good for a long time. If you notice any issues, please PM me and I'll try to sort it out.
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2019 6:26 am    Post subject: Re: Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild Reply with quote

baxsie wrote:

Later, it occurred to me that there is really no reason to shut the pump down.


It is a safety feature that the fuel pump is switched off after a few seconds when the engine stalls. This is to prevent spilling fuel over hot engine parts if the fuel lines were ripped off by an accident and the driver is not able to switch off the ignition any more.

There were some wc VWs (i. e. Passat B3, Corrado) that featured an fuel pump after run to minimized hot start problems. The after run relais monitored temperature in engine compartment and fuel pressure (to make sure the fuel system is not punctured).
In the water cooled application additionally the radiator fan is switched on to remove hot air from the engine compartment.
Of course there also is a timeout to prevent discharging the battery.

Perhaps this relais would help with your hot engine issue.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:07 am    Post subject: Re: Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild Reply with quote

Bashr52 wrote:
I've never messed with a Mega squirt system before, so I may be a bit off base here, but I had an idea. The FI system has an IAT sensor correct? Is it possible to write a line of code into the system that when the IAT is above a certain ambient temp, when the key is shut off it will continue to flow fuel through the system for a set amount of time? If you could trigger off the IAT that would prevent unnecessary fuel circulation in conditions where the vapor lock issue would normally occur.


Yes, what you propose would be a reasonable approach. A lot may have changed in the meantime. Maybe the MegaSquirt team has added some option like this.

At the time, I looked into it and found that the 3-second prime pulse was hard coded. No way to change it in the normal configuration. I would have had to download the tools and code and recompiled it on my own to make the change.

Later, it occurred to me that there is really no reason to shut the pump down. If you are driving all day, it is running all day anyway. So what we might do is just wire the pump to come on with the ignition and stay on. There is not normally any reason to be in that state of having the ignition on and the engine off--the pump running can just be a reminder to switch the key back to the accessory position or finish starting the car.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 5:45 am    Post subject: Re: Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild Reply with quote

I've never messed with a Mega squirt system before, so I may be a bit off base here, but I had an idea. The FI system has an IAT sensor correct? Is it possible to write a line of code into the system that when the IAT is above a certain ambient temp, when the key is shut off it will continue to flow fuel through the system for a set amount of time? If you could trigger off the IAT that would prevent unnecessary fuel circulation in conditions where the vapor lock issue would normally occur.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 7:10 pm    Post subject: Road Trip and Random Pics Reply with quote

Road Trip and Random Pics

By random chance parked next to a newish VW, nearly the same color:
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Local car show, mainly Detriot muscle, but there was an import category, and he won an award:
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Here is a shot of the dash with the Android tablet showing the Megasquirt real-time data:
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The work in the above 2017 posts had a goal: To go to the Vintage Meet in Seattle and the VW Nationals in Seattle. This is ~5 hour trip of ~300 miles over the cascade range through Snoqualmie pass.

In the driveway, loaded with gas, tools, and parts:
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2017 Vintage Meet in Seattle:
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He picked up another award at the 2017 VW Nationals:
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On the way back, we hit a couple of local landmarks. First was the cafe from Twin Peaks. We had a piece of pie, of course.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Then we dropped by the diner from Northern Exposure:
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That was a great trip.

There are two fiddly bits we are working on.

1) The gas tank sender still has a leak, even after several attempts to seal it.

2) If it is really hot, and you turn off the engine, it will vapor lock. We need to add a way to manually run the fuel pump continuously to get the lines cooled down. We found this out on a hot as hades stretch of freeway near George, WA. An accident a few miles ahead brought us from freeway speed to stopped quickly. We turned off the engine and we were not able to restart it. Of course, traffic started flowing so we had to push it off into the center median. Eventually, it cooled enough to restart. Later we learned that cycling the key on and off multiple times would help. The MegaSquirt primes the fuel pump ~3 seconds each cycle, and eventually it could punch enough cool fuel through to start.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 6:46 pm    Post subject: Repairing Broken Defrost Trace Reply with quote

Repairing Broken Defrost Trace

(Disclaimer: This work was done in summer of 2017 . . . and I am only writing it up now in 2019, so there may be some errors in my recall.)

While we had the bug in the shop, we wanted to fix the defrost. We knew from the FLIR images that the window was originally good. so the trace must have been broken when we installed:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Originally we tried to bridge the small crack with solder. I used too much heat for too long and the hot solder basically dissolved whatever metal (silver?) was on the glass. We then tried again with a strip of copper and much less heat. Ugly as can be, but it does work:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 6:04 pm    Post subject: Cruise Control Clutch Interlock Reply with quote

Cruise Control Clutch Interlock

(Disclaimer: This work was done in summer of 2017 . . . and I am only writing it up now in 2019, so there may be some errors in my recall.)

The cruise control clutch interlock really never worked well. There was no way to adjust it, and any time the clutch freeplay needed adjustment, the switch would need adjustment also.

What we really needed to sense was that the clutch pedal was not depressed--so we decided to measure the position of the clutch cable. The best choice seemed to be a motorcycle brake switch:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


We modified the clutch Bowden tube bracket to hold the switch:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is a closer pic of it mounted:
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We then fashioned a simple clamp around the clutch cable. In this pic the clutch is depressed, the ball chain is loose, the switch is closed and the cruise is disabled:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


When the clutch is released the ball chain goes tight, the switch is activated and the cruise is enabled:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 5:33 pm    Post subject: Cruise Control Sensor Magnets Mounting Ring Reply with quote

Cruise Control Sensor Magnets Mounting Ring

(Disclaimer: This work was done in summer of 2017 . . . and I am only writing it up now in 2019, so there may be some errors in my recall.)

I was not very happy with the original cruise control magnet/sensor setup. It just seemed that it was very likely to fail or be damaged over time.

To make the magnets smooth, we 3D printed a ring and placed the magnets into it. The "real" magnets are inside the ring, there is an extra set of magnets outside, just to hold the real magnets in place:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


We used JB-Weld to glue the magnets into the ring. JB weld has steel particles in it, so it bunches up around the magnets Smile :
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The ring has grooves in it to make space for the JB-Weld. We slobbered those with JB-Weld:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


We then cleaned and slobbered the outside of the CV joint with JB-weld:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After pressing the magnet ring on, letting it cure and cleaning it up it looks great:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is a shot of the sensor and the new magnet ring mounted:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 5:01 pm    Post subject: Wrapping the Stainless Sidewinder Exhaust Reply with quote

Wrapping the Stainless Sidewinder Exhaust

(Disclaimer: This work was done in summer of 2017 . . . and I am only writing it up now in 2019, so there may be some errors in my recall.)

Since we had the engine out:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Based on the heat of things when operating, I decided to wrap the ever-loving snot out of the custom stainless sidewinder exhaust from (from Genuine A1):

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 4:46 pm    Post subject: Parallel-flow / Micro-Channel condenser for ICE AC Reply with quote

Parallel-flow / Micro-Channel condenser for ICE AC

(Disclaimer: This work was done in summer of 2017 . . . and I am only writing it up now in 2019, so there may be some errors in my recall.)

Originally, we never had the AC working. At one point we had the tube & fin "extra condenser" that ICE supplied (which they recommended putting in front of the main engine cooling air intake) installed under the back seat, above the transmission on the left, but it really did not fit correctly and had a pretty bad interference with the heater hoses that required removing one of its two fans.

After some communications with a nice Chinese acquaintance I made by way of Alibaba, a beautiful, custom micro-channel, parallel flow heat exchange showed up:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The main thing that I wanted was to have the new condenser fit with the same Derale fan that I used on the other side for the oil cooler:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is how the new AC condenser fits in the engine bay. The existing oil cooler is on the right.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I had to re-route the oil cooler lines with a sharp 90-degree elbow coming out of the oil thermostat:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The lines clear the transmission . . . at least by a little bit. We did not have interference issues with the oil cooler, so it is probably OK:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is a pic of the condenser mounted with the (rebuilt) transmission in place:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


For reference here is the oil cooler:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Since the AC system was uncharged for something like a year, I decided to get a new dryer/filter:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After tightening some fittings that had never been more than hand tight, the system pulled vacuum OK. However, as soon as we introduced the freon, the custom 3-d printed fitting we made for connection to the AC compressor leaked. After trying to find some kind of sealant that was rated for freon, I ended up trying JB-Weld. Yes, epoxy is apparently resistant to freon. The o-ring is still in there, under all that epoxy. It also looks like I used JB-Weld to seal the little blow-off safety valve:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


With that leak fixed, it would maintain a hard vacuum pretty much indefinitely. If I recall correctly, I left the vacuum pump on overnight to be sure all traces of moisture in the system would be boiled out, then checked the gauge after another couple of days. The leak down was imperceptible:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


We had never charged an AC system before -- how hard could it be -- we ended up putting in the number of ounces that ICE AC recommended. Here is what the gauges read after charging (non-operating):
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


When the compressor is going, here is the gauge readings
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the temp our at the dash vent on a nice hot summer day:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 2:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild Reply with quote

Toggle switch
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 1:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild Reply with quote

I did an external pump also. The inlet of the pump is flooded so it always works. Used a momentary toggle switch under the dash. Working great.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 8:09 am    Post subject: Re: Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild Reply with quote

Whatever happened to this build? Any interior shots of the ICE A/C system in place?
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 8:09 am    Post subject: Re: Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild Reply with quote

Whatever happened to this build? Any interior shots of the ICE A/C system in place?
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