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engine build on an as21
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Schatzi
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:11 am    Post subject: engine build on an as21 Reply with quote

First time long time. I've used these forums many times for reference, and I guess it's my turn now.

I'm finally getting around to building my engine. I'm going from the ground up, and my build style is going to be to try to balance the living piss out of this thing and try to eek as much mileage as I possibly can.

-The Problem-

My case to build with is a fuelie case ca. late '79 that's been stroked to almost 76mm (with small rods) and bored for 94mm
So, AS21, had 3 out of round lifter bores. bored and sleeved all 8 to repair. Line bore is now 20 over.

I want to build this motor to last my penchant for twisty back roads. I'm not a drag strip launcher, but I do intend to buy lots of quality guts in the hopes that by building with good gear and taking the time to balance and blueprint frigging everything, I'll be able to make good mileage on this old case and still have fun tearing up Hwy 112 in the summer and daily driving the rest of the year.

Am I wasting my time? Is a line-bored as21 with repaired lifter bores capable of providing a second go-round of use, given a quality build?


INPUT?!
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Schatzi
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, I was thinking of going with a ebay jobbie crank. 76mm chevy journal chinese (I'm assuming) crank. It's like $270 shipped

AA thickwall 92mm pistons balanced to within a thousandth.

A gentle cam - still can't decide, but probably going with either a engle w110 or a FK-42. The matter of valve train is still a ways off

Still don't know about rods. Chevy rods obv., but not sure on length or whether they'll be I or H beams. Or something else.
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tmcdade
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd pay $10 more than the crank you're looking at and buy a DPR http://dprmachine.com/Html%20Files/cranks_type_1a.htm. Recommended by both Jake Raby and [email protected]. You can ask for chevy journals when you order

Or if you're on more of a budget, there are also these, but not available in chevy journal: http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1185

Good articles worth reading:
http://www.aircooled.net/1800cc-vw-engine-no-machine-combo/
http://www.aircooled.net/vw-type-1-mileage-engine-mpg/
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tmcdade wrote:
I'd pay $10 more than the crank you're looking at and buy a DPR http://dprmachine.com/Html%20Files/cranks_type_1a.htm. Recommended by both Jake Raby and [email protected].


We no longer use DPR crankshafts~
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake Raby wrote:

We no longer use DPR crankshafts~

If you are going to come on this forum and make a statement like that then explain why you no longer use DPR cranks. Are you implying DPR no longer makes a quality product? Are you implying delivery problems?
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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Schatzi
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tmcdade wrote:
I'd pay $10 more than the crank you're looking at and buy a DPR


Aren't those reground, welded cranks? Aren't those a no-no?
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reground and welded CW cranks are fine if they are processed properly. Jose at DPR does them properly. He makes an excellent product and I would recommend it over any Chinese crank for fit and finish out of the box.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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modok
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Schatzi wrote:
tmcdade wrote:
I'd pay $10 more than the crank you're looking at and buy a DPR


Aren't those reground, welded cranks? Aren't those a no-no?


Quite the opposite, they are a yes-yes
Grinding the crank is the best way to make it the correct size.

A properly modified german crank is the way to go for 78 and shorter strokes if you have the $$.

The fuelie case is very unlikely to crack, but it can be distorted and smooshed if it has suffered a lot. Check case halves with a straightedge, check rear seal bore for out of round, check thickness of case to deck surface to determine how tortured it really is. What you find could scare you. Or not. Better to know than to wonder
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tattooed_pariah
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can vouch for DPR's quality from ten years ago.. that's how long I've had my 69mm CW 8 dowelled DPR crank and it has never had any problems.
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was stated that we use DPR cranks.

I posted a corrective statement concerning the current status of our engine program stating that we no longer use DPR cranks.

You can take that as you will, I do not feel the necessity to explain why to anyone. Read between the lines and you might be right. The details are not for public consumption.

This change to our program has only recently occurred and I will be posting the announcement on our forums in the coming week as well as altering our store catalog. The changes to our engine program have already occurred.

I would not have posted this here if my reputation with the product was not being used to justify it in the marketplace. We utilized DPR cranks for 17 years but that is no longer true~.
Please do not PM me asking for details.

Remember that we do not produce T1 engines, only Type 4 so my experiences and application has been limited to only the TIV engine.

I am implying nothing; simply stating that we no longer use the DPR product to create our product.
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Schatzi
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:

The fuelie case is very unlikely to crack, but it can be distorted and smooshed if it has suffered a lot. Check case halves with a straightedge, check rear seal bore for out of round, check thickness of case to deck surface to determine how tortured it really is. What you find could scare you. Or not. Better to know than to wonder


Jerry at NW ConRod checked out the case, he made a teensy flycut on the #1 main, I think it was 1 thousandth, and he decked the spigot holes a thousandth to clean them up.

Does it sound too tortured? I don't think so, but I'm not a case expert. I'm a driving expert ^.^


Jake Raby - what cranks are you guys using now for you builds?
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modok
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

.001 is a small amount, if that is all it was off then that's pretty good, better than the grand majority
Very Happy
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craigman
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Schatzi"]
modok wrote:

Jake Raby - what cranks are you guys using now for you builds?


Jake uses China cranks now. Which he's said before he'd never use. And also works on and builds water cooled motors, (suby's and porsche's), which again he's said he'd never do...
So I wouldn't take anything he says to heart...
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="craigman"]
Schatzi wrote:
modok wrote:

Jake Raby - what cranks are you guys using now for you builds?


Jake uses China cranks now. Which he's said before he'd never use. And also works on and builds water cooled motors, (suby's and porsche's), which again he's said he'd never do...
So I wouldn't take anything he says to heart...


Incorrect and unsubstantiated.
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modok
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Jake Raby"]
craigman wrote:
Schatzi wrote:
modok wrote:

Jake Raby - what cranks are you guys using now for you builds?


Jake uses China cranks now. Which he's said before he'd never use. And also works on and builds water cooled motors, (suby's and porsche's), which again he's said he'd never do...
So I wouldn't take anything he says to heart...


Incorrect and unsubstantiated.


I have been misquoted!

Fix it craig
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I figured it was just he dont do type 1 stuff any more and thought no more of it. he had told me many years ago he would not balance any type one crank assys, they were not working or something like that and he wasent going to use the china stuff nor balance any of it,his type 1 balancing was suspended. well if somebody tells me that I will not press the issue whatever it is, I dont want them balancing my stuff,(that would be kinda stupid to have someone who just told you they dont do it to do it, kinda like going to homedepot for a chicken or fish sandwitch) he has stated in the past the dpr was a good product&that the dpr balancing work was to where they did not have to do anything else to it.( thus I send all my stuff to dpr for balacing) I dont see his post anything agnist dpr(at the moment ) just different directions, and he is clearing that up witch is good on his part. from what I have read of jakes ,he pretty much tells it like it is, (or appers so) when he did the dtm type 1 and didnot realy see any improvement he abandend it and said so,instead of just telling everybody it,s the best you can get but we dont have time to make them any more,witch is a stand up thing to do. and the motor that he was so very proud of that had issues,he stated that also, instead os just redoing it & sticken it back in servise with no one knowing.(the old our shit dont stink thats not ours & not our fault, we make the best shit in the industery line)
when shit dont work out like it should or was thought it should, do the right thing like jake and let it be known. there is way tomany old school crap that just is plain rong that is still flying around at 1/2 lift. or effup your chambers like this 40 year old book shows and it will fly!! things change,it's eveloution(witch has pretty much left the ACVW in the dust)very little has trickled down.all out race stuff yes there is a lot more of it but it also works much better than these old crappy stuff we have as new stuff now, just because"" it works on a checy or v8 so it wont work on a vw" and that is the bigest line of crap I have ever heard. sorry for the rant Ill shut up for now.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kinda missed the point didnt I. I use the as21 case in my 2028, bought it new a few years ago,nos, with a cracked oil gally(where the FF fitting go's) it still had the oe push in swell/welsh plug in it, and I could see the crack befor I pulled it, that case is extreamly thin there, so i milled it back to get good material& taped it for the an fitting then pluged the now exposed oil gally from the oil pump.
I will however not buy another mag case new when I canget a better aluminum case for about the same or less,(I just got another new bubble top case for my hyd roller cam motor, thicker lifter bores&much mo weldable)
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Type 1 DPR crank might be a fine specimen- I don't know because I haven't used one in years.
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mightymouse
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chevy journal cranks suck, go vw journal.

Get a CB performance crank and smile all the way home.

Havent had an issue with one yet. Smile
bugpack cranks are my fav, CB #2 fav.

Yet clients show up with more CB cranks so im thinking CB advertises better..lol.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mightymouse wrote:

bugpack cranks are my fav, CB #2 fav.
Gene Berg always recommended the Bugpack cranks as an excellent affordable alternative to Berg's forged cranks.

mightymouse wrote:

Yet clients show up with more CB cranks so im thinking CB advertises better..lol.
Good point, I agree.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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