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carterzest
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Joined: January 22, 2008
Posts: 3842
Location: Eagle, ID/Sun Valley, ID
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 Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:30 pm Post subject: Available, Syncro Power Steering Lines? Gas Tank Straps?HELP |
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In prepping my van for a 2,200 mile round trip in late May, I have run into a few obstacles which I am reaching out for help on. So many Syncro specific parts are becoming not readily availible. Can anyone help me out with the following:
Cannot seem to find a source for replacement Syncro Power Steering Lines.
My mechanic says he can braze a set from a parts, but that will cost me 3-6 hours in labor.  My line has a leak right in front of rear tire. Any advice greatly appreciated.
Also need some help sourcing good replacement Gas Tank straps:
Some upper straps are still available from dealer,
lower straps NLA. Bottom straps, left and right are different. Anyone have a source? I am assuming that if someone makes the lowers they likely also make the uppers. Where did I see these for sale recently?
Thanks in advance. My searches proved futile 
Seems I have seen a few posts about someone remanufacturing the Stainless Steel variety.
Thanks in advance for your help.
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PDXWesty
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Location: Portland OR
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carterzest
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Joined: January 22, 2008
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Location: Eagle, ID/Sun Valley, ID
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| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:54 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Rick. Just talked to Tyler at GW...they will have a high pressure flex PS kit in @ 8 weeks. I may just have to slap a 2wd seton until then formt trip, or just keep topping it off 
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syncrodoka
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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foodeater
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trailnewt
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Joined: February 17, 2008
Posts: 248
Location: Northern California
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| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 4:28 pm Post subject: |
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Chances are your local hydraulic supply can make the lines for you. Can't find a hydraulic supply? Ask the next guy you see operating a tractor.
Brent
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'87 Syncro Westy TDI
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Alaric.H
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Joined: March 28, 2009
Posts: 2529
Location: Sandy Springs GA
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| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:02 pm Post subject: |
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I do not have any lines but I sifted through my syncro stuff and found a set of straps that have been sandblasted and ospho treated. They need to be Por 15 or whatever paint you worship. Send me your address if you would like them.
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carterzest
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Joined: January 22, 2008
Posts: 3842
Location: Eagle, ID/Sun Valley, ID
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| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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Dude, thanks. I knew I had seen someone do it somewhere on here 
| trailnewt wrote: |
Chances are your local hydraulic supply can make the lines for you. Can't find a hydraulic supply? Ask the next guy you see operating a tractor.
Brent |
That is what I am thinking after seeing Mario's link. Looks like there are some good specs there so I could just print it out and have it made. Why pay my shop 3-6 hours for something I can do myself.
And Alaric.H, sent you a PM. Thanks so much all. I will post up what I come up with after I work the next 4 nights.
this just is perfect:
| creativemind wrote: |
Post subject: How to make New High Pressure Power Steering Hoses!
Okay People,
Here's the definitive answer on making the HP Power Steering Hose.
Total time required to make the hose 10 minutes at Parker Dealer.*
1. Locate a Parker Hose & Fitting Hydraulics Dealer Near You.
2. Tell them you want the following:
For Straight Fittings:
Metric Fitting: #1C343-10-6 (2) - This is what I used for PSPump & Rack connections works great.
For a curved 90˚ rack fitting use the following:
Parker #10691N-6-6 crimp swivel nut coupler to attach hose to Parker Metric swivel adapter 6-10L HXU86-S (confirm with Parker Dealer as I did not use this setup myself)*
Hose:
Hose # Parket 302/301-6 (Rubber 3/8th" core with Steel Braided Shell and Tough Wrap Exterior)
Length:
High Pressure - 11.5' long
Installation Process:
You will need:
19MM Wrenches
PB Blaster
Container to drain fluid into
Rags
Metal Brush to remove any rust around the fittings
Flashlight
Longs Black Plastic Wire Ties
Scissor
Dex/Mercon ATF)
1. Disconnect the HP line at the rack and check your fittings fit properly.
(If you use the straight fittings above which is what I used it will.)
2. Disconnect the HP line at the PS Pump. You will need two 19MM wrenches & some elbow grease!
3. Let the fluids drain out of the lines if you can before cutting them up into sections for easy removal.
4. Once the fluid is drained from the lines, cut the lines in 2-3 foot sections so you can easily remove the corroded metal lines.
(Wear Protective GLOVES! to prevent metal debris going into your hands and to prevent the ATF from getting all over you! If they are really corroded wear Eye protection as well.)
5. Wrap the ends of the New Parker Hose Connectors with some plastic bags and some electrical tape.
(this is done so no dirt or debris from the undercarriage will clog and contaminate the fitting connections when feeding the hose through.)*
6. Get a good flash light so you can see where your putting the hose.
7a. Use the flashlight here ad feed the Hose from the middle of the Van forward following the path of your coolant lines as they flow above the gas tank. *Be careful here as you have venting lines and other hoses that you do not want to disturb so do not forcibly push the hose. Look and see where it is going first. I placed my hose above the existing gas hoses as to not put pressure on any of them.
7b. Once you have the front area cleared you can now push the line forward a bit then move the hose toward the back of the van, thread the hose above your rear brake line hoses.
8. Clean off all the connections on the Rack and PS Pump. Be sure to remove any debris, rust etc. around the connectors. A wire brush can be helpful here.*
9. Connect the front High Pressure Fitting first and lock it down tight.
10. Connect the Rear PS Pump Fitting. Lock it tight.
11. Clean up any ATF leaking on the hoses and connectors with your rags or paper towels.
12. Now grab your Plastic Wire Ties which need to be long, grab your scissor and locate the small spaces within the frame there next to the coolant lines which can feed your Ties through. They are clearly visible if looking from the passenger side of the van. I used 3-4 of them in the mid section of the frame. Works great.
13. In the rear of the van you will place one just over the passenger side rear axle as there is also a space which you lock your tie to on the frame with the hose.
14. Check up front for an appropriate location to Wire Tie the front hose.
15. Lastly check it all again for a good fitting and appropriate routing and tightness on your wire ties, once done with all that your onto filling and bleeding the system.
Adding the ATF to the Power Steering Fluid Container and Checking the System:
1. Add your Dex/Mercon ATF to the container at the recommended level.
2. Disconnect the center position wire feeding into the distributor (note not to touch this or have it near any flammable substances)*
3. Turn the ignition key and let the power steering pump cycle a couple of times. This should remove some of the air in the pump. (sparks will come from this disconnected wire! stay clear!)
4. Check the ATF level it may need to be topped off.*
5. Reconnect the center distributor cable back to the center position on the distributor.
6. Start the Van
7. Slowly turn the wheel left to right all the way in each direction till it locks fully to that side!
8. Check the level of the ATF now, most likely it will need more, fill to recommended level.
9. Again turn the wheels left to right all the way this time a little faster!
10. Check again the ATF level fill and if necessary top off, if you did top off repeat the process of turning and checking till the ATF level is consistent. Once it is consistent you are done.
I hope this helps everyone out there who is not a mechanic like me.
Thanks to "TimWhy" for his assistance with the Parker Hose #'s!
Total removal time, install time, filling & bleeding was 45 minutes with a lift. Without one I would expect to be 1hr and 30 minutes of work time.
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Just wondering if I would need a bit longer hose for a Syncro to be able to tuck the hose up like the original is bent?
Any thoughts?
from this thread.
You guys are the best,
Jeffrey
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vw7266
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Location: the point, ohio
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| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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| I had the PS lines for my sycnro made at the local hose and hydraulic shop for under 60 bucks. Just took the ends in to show them what I needed and told them the lengths...couple hours later went back and picked them up. Was very happy and they installed easily. check around locally I bet you can find someone who can do it for and it will save you money! |
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carterzest
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Joined: January 22, 2008
Posts: 3842
Location: Eagle, ID/Sun Valley, ID
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| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:14 pm Post subject: |
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| vw7266 wrote: |
| I had the PS lines for my sycnro made at the local hose and hydraulic shop for under 60 bucks. Just took the ends in to show them what I needed and told them the lengths...couple hours later went back and picked them up. Was very happy and they installed easily. check around locally I bet you can find someone who can do it for and it will save you money! |
Thanks so much. It's a simple enough hose and the fittings are well known. My goal for this post is to help document the simplicity for future generations. While doing this, I scored a set of stock tank straps and a set of front shocks for a couple six packs this summer(thanks AlaricH). This community rocks!
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syncrodoka
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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| Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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So did you build the power steering lines? I will be tackling the project on monday since the gas tank is out and the access is so good, the rust is concentrated next to the tank.
I want to know if the lengths are right for syncros. |
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carterzest
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Joined: January 22, 2008
Posts: 3842
Location: Eagle, ID/Sun Valley, ID
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| Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 1:38 pm Post subject: |
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| syncrodoka wrote: |
So did you build the power steering lines? I will be tackling the project on monday since the gas tank is out and the access is so good, the rust is concentrated next to the tank.
I want to know if the lengths are right for syncros. |
Buimding them off the plans next week. Taking them off first to verify the fit and fittings, then going to the Parker shop with my friend helping me install. I've only burned through 3 quarts ATF to Moab and back
I'll post up here what I do. Thanks for reminding me.
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stumpy
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Location: york, pa.
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| Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 2:03 pm Post subject: PS |
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| I had both lines made at local shop a few years ago for under 100 dollars. All I remember was that the one fitting was a Gates fitting--- part number G25645-0610 Works really well!! |
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syncrodoka
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Joined: December 27, 2005
Posts: 12005
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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| Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 9:51 pm Post subject: |
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I popped off my compressor hose and taped it to the power steering lines to use as a dummy for new hoses. I marked the hoses and removed it to measure them. I got 11' 11" for the HP line and 12' 2" for the LP line.
I routed the PS lines through frame at the rear next to the heater hose and starter cable instead of under it though.
My local parker hose shop doesn't have any of the fittings and needs to order them. I have other bigger projects to worry about right now though so it will have to wait. |
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Terry Kay
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Posts: 13331
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| Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 10:05 pm Post subject: |
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I have a question.
As you guys are having the PS pressure hoses made--what are you doing about replacing the throttle ( or restrictor ) valve that's just forward of the pump??
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syncrodoka
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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| Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 10:37 pm Post subject: |
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| I measured to the stock connection points on the firewall. I don't believe that people selling the kits are bypassing that hose either since they don't show a banjo fitting in their pictures. |
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Syncroincity
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Location: New York City
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| Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 10:55 pm Post subject: |
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I used Frank Condelli's replacement hydraulic hose kit, works great.
You re-use the original leader hose (lederhosen!) from the pump.
It even works perfectly with my diesel engine conversion, although I had to remove the pressure sender on the pump end banjo fitting because of clearance issues.
Here's the original pigtail hose coming off the pump, it mates right to the replacement hose fitting.
I think this is what Terry was asking about; this is where the noise muffler lives, right?
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Terry Kay
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Posts: 13331
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| Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 11:00 pm Post subject: |
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From what I have heard, (from a fellow Vanagon owner) that Fearless Frank was making his lines from the pump forward--and all in hose so you couldn't hear them pounding on the bottom of the van.
That restrictor valve keeps the pressure down from the pump to keep the lines ( steel ) from pounding under pressure on the bottom of the Van.
I just was curious if the guys replacing the lines with hose were going from the thottle valve forward or getting it all, and splicing the valve back in--or not?
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syncrodoka
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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| Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 11:13 pm Post subject: |
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So it looks like frank uses the stock hose off of the pump as well.
I should also add that since my LP measurement was to the connection point not to the reservoir, that length should be added. My conversion differs at that point and i have a connection that i need to retain at the firewall there. |
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Terry Kay
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| Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 11:23 pm Post subject: |
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OK--I see what exactly I was looking for--& answered my question.
The hose kits fit on the front side of that valve--
Thanks for the picture's--perfect.
How did you splice into that pressure line?
With a compression fitting or just a inline splice & some clamps?
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