Steering Column Flange Bushing Replacement

[Gauche1968]

I got some of these from Van Cafe as I have a clunk in the steering (They are now back in stock).

http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_211_311/steering_column_flange_bushing.html

I did a search and found a couple of threads about them, but I am still having a difficult time visualizing this install.

The Bentley (pg. 48.2, 48.3) doesn't really describe the job all that well. So, am I taking the entire steering column off to get to these bushings or do I just need to pull the bolts that hold them out with some vice grips? How are those round headed bolts held in there?

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1984 Vanagon GL
1984 Vanagon Westy

[Gauche1968]

Found this link. Thanks to the poster. I think I get it now, once I loosen the steering column, the top column should drop down revealing the flange and providing access to the bushings. The bolts that secure the steering column to the body are what keep the flange bushings in place.

The link says to remove the cone bolts holding the top bracket with vice grips, but how do you get them back in?

http://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/SteeringBushing#5349474688463980242
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1984 Vanagon GL
1984 Vanagon Westy

[levi]

Let's see if I remember it correctly:

Steering wheel comes off ...think that was a 24mm.

The arms for turn signal comes off after you use a screwdriver to take out the 3 or so tiny screws.

This exposes a bushing over the steering column.
That bushing is about an inch long.
I use a vise grip to work it up.
Don't use the vise grip too tightly, it'll really gouge up that bushing.

Then the whole column drops down.

Once you put the new pieces in, I use a vice grip to hold it together until I can get that top bushing in place and the steering wheel etc back on.

Looking at tubaneils pics, he has the whole column propped up with a 2x4 because he's got the whole column separated for some other job maybe. This is NOT necessary for what you're doing. No need to remove those 2 brackets as shown in his first pic.
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One of these days I'm gonna settle down,
but till I do I won't be hangin round.
Going down that long lonesome highway,
gonna see life my way

https://youtu.be/cSrL0BXsO40

[IdahoDoug]

No - you don't need to remove the steering wheel or the blinker switches, etc. Just the large nuts that hold the steering column to the dash, and then the cone bolts that also hold it to the dash. Then the steering column can telescope apart where those two bushings go down lower to the floor. Pay attention so you don't let the steering wheel pivot 180 and bolt it up that way.

The cone bolts (known as breakaway bolts) come out with determined clamping with nice new vice grips or strong hands on channel locks. They go back in the same. This is simple - don't worry that it's complicated.

DougM
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[vanagonjr]

[Vanagon Nut]

[cawvin]

I replaced these bushings today and I have some questions regarding the Bentley's "dimension a":

It states Dimension a in the above figure should be 3.5 mm. As we see below, that is the thickness of the bushing's flange:

so that when installed, we see it like this:

I am assuming this is what is meant by "a"? and not an additional gap of open space between the rubber and the metal flange of the steering column.

What I don't understand is how the Bentley says "place shims under bracket (upper arrow) to adjust height." Here is a picture of the upper bracket, you can see the screwdriver pointing to where my shims/washers are.

But how would shimming that dimension change dimension a?

The shims would adjust in the direction of the red arrows above, while dimension a (blue arrows) seems better controlled by the vice grips pictured.

This might seem minor but I've found that looseness in the old bushings was the root of all my steering woes, and now I'd like to get it right. Has anyone else puzzled over this dimension?
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1986 tin top syncro w/ ahu tdi @ 50*

[spitsnrovers]

I can see the idea of putting shims under the upper bracket to adjust equal spacing between the forward edge and rear edge of the two mating pieces.

Which is why I believe they state "turn the column 90 degrees". There, I suspect they are saying "rotate the steering wheel 90 degrees".

The shims would prevent compressing or stretching the space between the two mating surfaces during rotation of the steering wheel.

But it appears that a simple adjustment in the slots of the upper bracket is all that is required to adjust the 3.5mm space specified.

I've never done this adjustment, but that is how I read it.
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'88 VW Westfalia
'75 Triumph Spitfire 1500

[RicoS]

[RicoS]

[Vanagon Nut]