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Area 67 58 Kombi adventure and 59 SC Iowa Drive out convoy!!
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Floor is ah, well, totally shot, brake and clutch pedal move fine and the frame is a-O.K. even the cross supports are fine and all dedicated tabs ( MC/accelerator) are also good.
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Donor nose section will provide many sections that are rusted, its a 64 so there will be some creative modifying on the dog legs, harvesting the sections will be time consuming..now getting that steering wheel off>>>>
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?
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 58's parcel tray (thin lip) had some nasty rust outs (mostly in the center), I had a 64 fat lip donor with bad rust along the lip. So I clipped out the rusty fat lip and overlaid the remaining section onto the 58 thin lip, gave it a few rivets and a good coat of rustoleum. Presentable.
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

still a bit tacky..
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Stocknazi
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

good to see some progress made on that 58 manfred.

it will be cool to see it being used instead of sitting in a scrap metal pile somewhere
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn Manfred, you were not kidding about the trip and all of the work entailed! You are a better man then me! Now I know why you are so tired when I call you.
Keep up the good work, and I will see you soon, hopefully before Winter hits....I need a road trip! Wink
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gave it a few more hours today and I now have a good idea of what needs replaced,what I have, and how to do it...I think. This is a first time adventure for me, Colorado does not have this level of rust. I will tackle drilling out stitch welds on the donor bus first, if I can get the floor out then I should have good access to the lower nose. I do not have the welding skills to reattach so I will bring in a pro. It has kind of a cool look...maybe waxoil treatment, except for the roof, it really needs something to protect it..
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Last edited by Manfred58sc on Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whatta nose!!!
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Last edited by Manfred58sc on Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a bit intimating, what view!!
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

!!!yellow cargo doors!!!!Yee-haw
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a little more to work with on this side...
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Manfred58sc wrote:
Yes there is a bit of a Sam Elliot resemblance now that you mention it. I had never met a professional tractor mower, an amazing career, he drives town to town field to field at 18mph, stays in many motels and is rarely home. He had been doing it for 24 years! He was super curious about AC and often compared them to Chevy 350's he worked on. We get an early start in the am, nice and cool with a breeze. The "keys" have had it so time for a jumper set up. 2 shots of starting fluid and 2 cranks...Starts right up! Wait, it is in gear and I am driving already (without brakes). Foot on the clutch and still moving forward, shifter feels strange...to loose. Power off and a check underneath, coupler is broken and has been for a long time, this is not good. I put heavy vise grips on the trans shift rod and try like hell to get it into another gear. No go..it is demonically locked in first. Clutch cable is good and properly adjusted but still locked in first. I had hoped the engine died long ago and the trans was good, however it appears that the trans locked into first, the PO tried to force it out of gear, sheered the coupler and then probably cooked the engine trying to get it home. This driveout is canceled. Now we need a close storage area as we can only tow at 10mph so we don't hurt the 40h.p. We have become idle news in Osceola so the locals are drifting by to check out the "hippy Bus's"..


I had a similar symtom once and it turned out the splines were too rusty and would not allow the clutch disc to slide away from the flywheel with the clutch depressed. I pulled the engine, cleaned the splines up with a chainsaw file, test fit the clutch disc to make sure is slid on easily, and reinstalled the engine. It worked perfectly.
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rust issue on the spline is a good analysis, I spent a good deal of time cleaning, but maybe I missed some burrs/etc. I was most bothered by not being able to get the trans to shift, I had heavy vise grips on the shaft right by the nose cone and gave it lots of force and it would not move in or out. The SC is going to a new home and I will pass the observation along to them. In the future if the splines are rusty, I will wire wheel them and then put the disc on it to make sure it moves "clean". Thanks
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the donor floor removed from the nose and frame..quite a job. the donor has its own issues with rust but it is savable. Time for some heavy gauge aluminum sheeting,rivets, and Alex paint-able outdoor siliconized caulk. This is a low budget repair but it will hold fine in the dry Colorado conditions. We are shooting for getting this on the road by then end of the year, still lots to do.some pics,,
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

swiss cheese has fewer holes
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tomorrow it gets heavy coat of rustoleum paint, should be presentable from the mat side any way..
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Bulli Klinik
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Manfred58sc wrote:
Gave it a few more hours today and I now have a good idea of what needs replaced,what I have, and how to do it...I think. This is a first time adventure for me, Colorado does not have this level of rust. I will tackle drilling out stitch welds on the donor bus first, if I can get the floor out then I should have good access to the lower nose. I do not have the welding skills to reattach so I will bring in a pro. It has kind of a cool look...maybe waxoil treatment, except for the roof, it really needs something to protect it..


Hey Manfred,

If you need some advice on the nose/floor, give me a ring. I'm fresh off doing a floor and nose on a 67. I used a WW floor on this one and can't imagine there being a better replacement. Just modified a couple of small things to get it a bit more accurate, but it fit like a glove. If you're doing a nose and floor, I'd recommend removing the nose and drilling out the floor from the backside. This allows you to rosette weld from the front of the Bus which is far more comfortable than laying on the cab floor. An added bonus is that the welds won't have to be finished at the front of the floor since you welded it from the back.


Good luck, Buddy!
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Last edited by Bulli Klinik on Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:25 am; edited 1 time in total
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Mike, I totally see what you are saying. It was a bear getting the floor off the donor section. I decided not to remove the nose of the 58, amazingly it was unwrecked and only rusted below the belt line. I will get John ( our fab guy) to replace the lower nose. I will slip the replacement floor onto the frame of the 58 and do the dreaded under the car welding. You are the VW "Godfather"!!
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Manfred58sc
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the final result, good solid finish with the heavy coating of rustoleum. I also got a rebuild on the master cylinder from the 64 nose, I had a NOS rebuild kit in stock..after chipping out the rusty guts and giving the cylinder a hone ( who has that tool anymore??). I also "gooped up" and painted the "street" side as well, pics of that tomorrow...
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