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Static Valve timing
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ballbag
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 8:58 am    Post subject: Static Valve timing Reply with quote

I've taken my engine out to clean and freshen it up. I found two loose nuts on the head of 1&2, a crushed fuel pipe and splits in the flexible tube onb the balance pipes along the way. Anyway after fitting new push rod tubes and a new gasket kit, I've come to put it all together, along with the valve timing and my pulley has 3 marks on it and I'm a bit lost as, I thought it should have 4???

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Anyway a friend (who has built lots of type 1 motors) and me did the static valve timing while the engine was out of the car and TDC always seemed to be the left hand side mark on the pulley, which is now obviously 7.5 BTDC, according to this link http://home.clara.net/hallvw/type3ign.htm

My motor is R0800###
It already has a 009 dizzy although number 1 cylinder on the dizzy was top left as you look down on it, which makes the dizzy 180 out, so we set it accordingly.

I've put it back in today, topped up the carbs (twin solex') and turned it over enough times to fill the float chambers and tried to start it but, it didn't seem to be firing, then my battery died.

I left it then as I had to come to work.

Any advice for when I appproach it again in the morning?

This was the only thread I could find on here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=462648&highlight=valve+timing
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SamSmith
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you haven't adjusted your valves yet, you aught to.
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vdubin
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If memory serves me correctly, that pulley is marked 5, 7.5, 10 degrees with no 0 marked. Although you could mark your own. Set for the middle notch and then set you timing after you set your dwell.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 11:23 am    Post subject: Re: Static Valve timing Reply with quote

ballbag wrote:
my pulley has 3 marks on it and I'm a bit lost as, I thought it should have 4???

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Early cars (up to about 70) only used 3 notches on the pulley. They are from left to right 7.5, 10, and 12.5 degrees. If you look in the you posted, there appears to be a line scribed in the pulley that is very close to zero. You could measure the distance from the left mark to the right mark (which is 2.5* between marks, for a total of 7.5* total), and use that measurement from the left mark, to go further left (to get 0). Or if you have the belt cover completely off, you'll find a casting mark on the bottom of the pulley, that if you brought straight up will give you "0".

You're going to need to completely re-set the valves though, as depending on how you did it, all 4 (the Russ Wolfe method) or 2 (the Muir method) cylinders will be off. Shocked Just something to keep in mind.

Edit; since you have an 009, you're going to need to time it (ignition) to 28 to 30* at 2500 rpms, and then let the idle timing fall where it will.
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ballbag
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Bob, I'll give that a whirl tomorrow Smile
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6T5 square
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

did you pull the hose of the vaccum beofre you timed it?
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ballbag
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It has a 009 dude, it hasn't been electically timed at all.

I'm going to have a look in the morning, double check everything it right.
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ballbag
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 2:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorted, all running sweet. Just got to time it with a light when I get the chance Smile
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know if this will help, but here you go. This is from my 1971

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