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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Joel. I signed up for SubaruVanagons this morning and found it under "FILES>Speed Sensors>subaru-VW speedsensor.pdf" The drawing is done by Andy Malec. If I can (somehow) find him, I'll ask if I can repost the drawing here for non-members with Non-Vanagons to benefit from... Now I just have to get it to scale correctly. the 3/8" CV bolt holes print out at 5/16"

Thankfully I have a couple spare drive axles with CV's still attached so at least I don't have to climb under the car and unbolt those stupid 3square bolts to check fitment.... It's all about life's little victories! Very Happy
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To follow up on a conversation from the previous page, I got an email from Tom Shiels concerning the price of a wiring harness for a Bug:

Quote:
Hi, Nice to hear from a neighbour.

I have done quite a few special harness for Bugs, Beetles, Porsches, Ghias and hover craft.
For these special harness - I always prepare a lay-out diagram and get agreement on it before starting the harness.I charge $40.00 for this additional work. Typically my harnesses will run between $625 and $700 depending upon how many of my options you select.

Holler if you have any questions,
Tom


I put mine together for a little less than EDIT*** $29 *** in parts and a bunch of relaxing labor in the summer sunshine. To me, the decision is a no-brainer as I have more time than money in the summers. As an additional benefit I have a decent understanding of what's going on electrically AND have a bunch of wiring diagrams (with chickenscratch notes on them) to assist me should anything electrical go wrong in the future. Besides, the vast majority of the time I spent was in removing the harness from the car (which you would most likely have to do anyway). All told, I would say that if you can follow a recipe / directions / whatever then the wiring harness part of the conversion rates around a 3/10 on a scale of difficulty.

For those of you who want to use Tom or whoever else.. I fully understand that as well. Everyone's situation is a bit different Very Happy
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Last edited by Nepenthe88 on Wed Jul 18, 2012 2:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha! Google is so awesome! I found Andy Malec-- the guy who originally drew the VSS wheel of death-- and he gave me permission to post his drawings for the benefit of the VW community:

Quote:
Granted!

Thanks for asking. I'm happy to have a small contribution to groups I probably taken more than added.

Btw, my speed sensor is still going strong.

Thanks,

Andy Malec


Thanks again Andy!! (the "original" file was a PDF, but I don't know how to link a file on theSamba, so these fotos are the best I can do. I kept them their original size, but-- due to differences in printers, margins, etc they might need to be re-scaled)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm pretty sure THIS ^^^ is the template / instructions Joel used for his speed sensor. (Once again) I hope he doesn't mind, but he linked to an ebay ad with a speed sensor in some other thread, and I'm going to link to it here. It's old, but you can still get a general idea of what you'll be looking for:

Joel's "NPN Proximity sensor" for wheel of death:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&...3660wt_907

Blue - Ground
Black - VSS signal to ECU
Brown - 12volt ignition power - this is to power the LED that lights up when it detects metal.

*** and to answer the inevitable question, the reason I plan to make a VSS wheel of death speed sensor is because without one, SOME ECU's will generate a check engine code and may cause the car to stall on deceleration / idle. I figure it's better to spend the $10 as "preventative maintenance" now than deal with issues later when I might be more busy***
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

***EDIT***

Pay no attention to the post that WAS here. I bought the wrong sensor (PNP v. NPN)
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Last edited by Nepenthe88 on Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:20 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Joel
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just make sure its NPN not PNP for the earlier ECUs.

Mine didn't do the stalling at stop lights thing or stalling in general without a VSS.
It was drivable without one but fitting one certainly made it much smoother and stopped the check engine light coming on with code 24.

I didn't print mine to scale, I just use the cut out to get the basic shape of the blades right.
Those T25 Vanagons have a bigger bolt pattern than bug anyway.

Needs to be on the outer CV joint with a bug too as the Chassis fork doesnt leave room

It's been working well for 3 years now in all sorts of crappy weather.
Even powers my Digital speedo as well now.

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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joel wrote:
Just make sure its NPN not PNP for the earlier ECUs.


well crap...
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Joel.

The seller had both PNP and NPN units for the same price. I contacted him and asked if he could send me the correct one. Hopefully he can make that happen. If not I'm out $7 (so much for the budget build Laughing ) The one I wanted is as follows:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LJ18A3-8-Z-BX-NPN-3-Wire-C...2267wt_962

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***EDIT-- the seller got back to me pretty quickly and changed my order from the incorrectly titled one to the one I needz. Life is good***
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vdubjim
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im still more curious radiator mounting and longevity. Tried to see yours joel but wayyy too many posts.
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Joel
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jim, yes I'm going to write up a new condensed down thread just with the basic specs of the car so it's not a marathon to read through.

I've redone my radiator setup since the first install, original worked well it just took up too much trunk space, the new one is on page 19:

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=77027&page=19
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vdubjim wrote:
Im still more curious radiator mounting and longevity. Tried to see yours joel but wayyy too many posts.


All in good time bud. But if youre interested in doing a swap you cant skimp on the research. Being mentally prepared is every bit as important as having the skill or tools to complete the job. Joel's thread is an excellent resource that i've probably read thru three times... And each time I pull out something new! I suggest everyone interested in a swap read Joels thread AND all the others i've linked to. Why? Cause theres more than one way to do things! And someone else's solution might be better for your specific application....
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I took the engine harness back to the car and hooked everything up to test things out. I'd intended to use the Subaru ignition switch for testing purposes, but my idea was too clever by half. (unfortunately the subaru ignition switch uses random letters, NOT the #30, 50, 15/54 designation that I'm used to. to make things worse none of the wire colors matched up with the subaru wiring diagrams?!) It was all messed up, and I didn't really care to troubleshoot it since... it's only a temporary portion of the harness anyway. As a result, I tore it out and just hotwired the bloody thing with my fingers, as you'll see in the video.

Here's test #1:


Link


Sorry for the crappy quality, it's difficult to hotwire and film at the same time and it was a bit windy. As you can probably tell, something's wrong Very Happy It was a pretty easy fix though. when I took out the power steering pump out a few days ago I disconnected a breather line from the donkey dick. Then, in my enthusiasm to fire her up today, I forgot to plug her back in causing a huge vacuum leak. I also forgot to buy a new alternator belt, so that's not hooked up. Here's try #2:


Link


(haha! That's a REALLY fast mustang WAY far in the background. My buddy gets all sorts of hot-rodders come thru his shop. The VW is the red painted stepchild of the bunch Very Happy ).

The Subee engine sounds a lot different (and better) in person, I'm guessing the camera's mic is picking up more exhaust note echoing up and out of the engine compartment than can be heard in person. FWIW, the exhaust has rotten away just past the catalytic converter which is right next to the tranny. Regardless, life is good! I had a big smile on my face when she fired up and started purring. Truth is, in reality, she sounds really nice!
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Last edited by Nepenthe88 on Thu Jul 26, 2012 5:07 pm; edited 3 times in total
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a pic of the offending breather tube causing the vacuum leak in vid #1

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Next step is to pull the front bumper, cut the front of the car off and then tear the engine and tranny out VW style Cool . I also need to get the fuel tank / fuel lines out, and finish the VSS sensor mounting plate and wheel of death. In the mean-time, I also want to do a real nice, color wiring diagram of the engine harness... just so I have everything documented for future troubleshooting.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 4:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stop making the electrical look so easy Laughing

The next most satisfying moment will be hearing that rumbling note emanating from the back of the bug.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, I took a mental break from the 57 Ghia I just stumbled on to this past weekend to do some Subee stuff (see my thread here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=522035&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0)

Getting the engine and tranny to split required me to jackstand the tranny up until the engine mounting studs cleared the subframe, and then take the weight off the engine with a second jack. I then stuck a large prybar in a subframe slot and used that to get leverage against the engine flange. The wood block on the firewall "trick" didn't work.

Once the case and trans were split, I cut the remaining pieces holding the front of the car on (I'd previously removed the bumper and cut the lower sections with a sawzall). After that the engine slid out just like a VW, radiator and all (it's still full of fluid):

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


oh, and don't forget to take the mounting stud that gets stuck in the trans

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


note the stellar exhaust welds and ghetto flexy pipe Rolling Eyes Unfortunately there's a hole in the header, which means I'm gonna eventually need an exhaust
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can I use a Kennedy Stage1 clutch and pressure plate (that would be great!) or do I need a stage 2?
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, and does anyone know offhand what size belt I need to run the alternator sans power steering pump? I'm actually not sure how to measure that..
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nepenthe88 wrote:
Oh, and does anyone know offhand what size belt I need to run the alternator sans power steering pump? I'm actually not sure how to measure that..


Try a Bosch 5PK685. 5 rib, 685mm length. 5PK695 might work too.

In general, back off the alternator mount adjustment so you have enough adjustment left to tension the belt. Take a string and wrap it tight once around the pulleys. Mark the string on both ends where the string crosses itself and measure between your marks. That's the length of belt you need.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joel, used a DAYCO belt 5PK0690
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ Awesome guys, thanks! Does anyone know about the clutch and pressure plate? I've just been silly busy lately and haven't had time to troll thru all the good conversion threads to find that info... and... I kinda want to get the adaptor/ clutch/ pressure plate ordered, so I can mount the engine to a spare transaxle before the weather hits (I know it's still summer, but...)

So, just a quick update...
I originally bought the car for $250. I was paying it off in drips and dribbles and my buddy waved the last $50 for me cause I did some work around the shop. So. The car only wound up costing me $200 Very Happy Then, I sold the remote start out of it for $15. So as it stands, I'm currently into the CAR for a mere $185. Not bad.

Then I had a guy call me looking for the transmission. Seeing as how Subaru still uses this exact same automatic transmissions in their cars today, I kinda think his offer was bunk. Besides, it was HARD to get that bloody thing out. it got stuck on the subframe and firewall and I couldn't get it to separate from the drive axle for the life of me....

Thats where the bobcat came in. Hooked it up to the top mount with a chain and swung the car back and forth-- six feet this way, six feet that way-- until it jiggered free. Ugh! All I know is that I have renewed appreciation for the VW, where all you need is a small box of hand tools, and a jack to do damn near everything.
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Speaking of transaxles....

uh-oh! (but look how relatively easy that was... Bet'cha Joel didn't even have to cut the axles like I did on the subaru Confused )

Joel wrote:
f**king gearboxes...... how do they work????

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