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Take a listen and give me advice. *video inside
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Kirk
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:26 pm    Post subject: Take a listen and give me advice. *video inside Reply with quote

*sigh*


In addition to my exhaust leak, when i fired up the bus tonight after setting the valves, its making an odd tapping/knocking noise. Its been sitting for two weeks, so I'm not sure it wasnt there before, but I honestly dont remember it. I've set the valves numerous times with no issues, and am pretty sure I got it right (been doing it 20 years now, I should have it figured out) I checked the valves (prior to firing it up, stone cold) and they were all tight. Very. Set each one, and double checked. Fired up and its loud.

Excuse the exhaust, its crappy and leaking somewhere. Is there anything else you can tell me by the sound in this video?

(and yes, I have one blue spark plug wire. Long story.)


Link

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If they were all tight, I would guess that you had the crank 360° out when you adjusted them, and that now they are all loose.

Make sure the rotor is pointing to the plug wire for the cylinder you are adjusting.
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Westfabulous
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Kirk, that bus don't sound right. I'm with WT on there being issues with the valve adjust. Notice how snappy / clacky the valves are? They should be "nice and soft clickety like" when adjusted correctly. Start with the basics: Get the cap off the distributor, and watch the rotor for positioning as you go around and adjust each cylinder.

Your probable distributor layout

32
41

Cylinder arrangement

31
42


What did you set them to? Assuming you have solids?

Bet its something easy to fix. Keep us posted, and good luck.

Oh, and by the way, my wife just yelled at me to turn down that music, cuz she's trying to sleep. Thanks a lot. Maybe she'll find that ad for the Westy trailer?!?! Laughing
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jmstu76
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kirk, solids or hydros? I thought you were going to do some positive fiddling?
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'76 Deluxe Sage Green Westy
2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like the valves are loose...i vote re adjust and double check where the rotor on the distributor is.


hydros or solids?
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Busdriver79
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 6:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, it definately sounds like a cement mixer....but it is running on all cylinders...I would just double check the clearances on the valves....I would fix any exhaust leaks too....just to be able to hear the valves more clearly.
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Kirk
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jmstu76 wrote:
Kirk, solids or hydros? I thought you were going to do some positive fiddling?


Har dee har har har. Don't you have wheel bearings to do? Wink

Solids. Set to .006. Loose. Dammit. Ah well, I love removing and replacing valve covers on this Type 4 soooooooooooo much. Very Happy

Thats exactly what I thought it was, sadly I was tired and went to bed immediately after that video, so tonight will have to do. Thanks guys.

And Dan, sorry, but garage time is music time. Least down here in the South. Wink
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jmstu76
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kirk wrote:
jmstu76 wrote:
Kirk, solids or hydros? I thought you were going to do some positive fiddling?


Har dee har har har. Don't you have wheel bearings to do? Wink

Solids. Set to .006. Loose. Dammit. Ah well, I love removing and replacing valve covers on this Type 4 soooooooooooo much. Very Happy

Thats exactly what I thought it was, sadly I was tired and went to bed immediately after that video, so tonight will have to do. Thanks guys.

And Dan, sorry, but garage time is music time. Least down here in the South. Wink


Well you do have good taste in music. My garage was alive with tunes last nigh as well. Passenger side rear wheel bearing was conpleted last night. I got to bed at midnight. I drove the bus this morning. The drivers side is still chirping though. I'm waiting on an inner bearing to do the other side. It should be at my house Monday.

I find doing my valves alone is difficult. I prefer to be down on the ground while someone rocks the bus while in gear or bumps the starter for me so I can watch what the valves are doing. Exhaust opens, then intake opens immediately after. At that time, I know that cylinder is on the compression stroke. Time to adjust.

Take your time, play some good tunes, you'll get it.
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2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jmstu76 wrote:
Exhaust opens, then intake opens immediately after. At that time, I know that cylinder is on the compression stroke. Time to adjust.



This would indicate that you are at the top of the exhaust stroke/beginning of the intake stroke. This in not where you should be adjusting your valves.

If you were actually at TDC compression you could adjust the valves accurately 90° either side of center because the valves would not be moving.
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jmstu76
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
jmstu76 wrote:
Exhaust opens, then intake opens immediately after. At that time, I know that cylinder is on the compression stroke. Time to adjust.



This would indicate that you are at the top of the exhaust stroke/beginning of the intake stroke. This in not where you should be adjusting your valves.

If you were actually at TDC compression you could adjust the valves accurately 90° either side of center because the valves would not be moving.


Wow. It's early and posting from a phone isn't fun. What I meant to say is I watch the valve train and think about what it's doin in relation to the piston. After re-reading what I wrote, I should have added that after the intake closes, now the compression begins. A Crucial step that I forgot to type. Once the piston is safely making compression, the lifters should be on a flat, unramped part of the lobe. This is within the safe zone of 90 degrees either side of TDC.

Again, thanks for the clarification WT. It's all in hopes Kirk has a better night tonight.
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'76 Deluxe Sage Green Westy
2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020
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Kirk
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll double check it all tonight. I did the standard remove the cap, roll the motor over till the rotor points at the little line, roll over adjust roll over adjust, etc I've always done. Clearly I did something wrong this time. Thanks for answering my noob question. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Imma dummy. Seriously. I must have been drunk when I set those. They were waaaaaaaaaaaaaay loose. Got them perfect. Fired off, purrs like a kitten. I'd swear the exhaust leak is better. Very Happy

Anywhoo. Thanks for the help! Very Happy
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pittwagen
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question Very Happy
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jmstu76
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work. I think we have all done that once or twice
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2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020
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