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Kirk Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2003 Posts: 5487 Location: North Texas
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:26 pm Post subject: Take a listen and give me advice. *video inside |
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*sigh*
In addition to my exhaust leak, when i fired up the bus tonight after setting the valves, its making an odd tapping/knocking noise. Its been sitting for two weeks, so I'm not sure it wasnt there before, but I honestly dont remember it. I've set the valves numerous times with no issues, and am pretty sure I got it right (been doing it 20 years now, I should have it figured out) I checked the valves (prior to firing it up, stone cold) and they were all tight. Very. Set each one, and double checked. Fired up and its loud.
Excuse the exhaust, its crappy and leaking somewhere. Is there anything else you can tell me by the sound in this video?
(and yes, I have one blue spark plug wire. Long story.)
Link
_________________ MAKE FORUMS GREAT AGAIN
Bear
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50336
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:15 pm Post subject: |
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If they were all tight, I would guess that you had the crank 360° out when you adjusted them, and that now they are all loose.
Make sure the rotor is pointing to the plug wire for the cylinder you are adjusting. |
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Westfabulous Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 4207 Location: The tropic of Canada, dodging the giant flying moose of Surrey!
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Kirk, that bus don't sound right. I'm with WT on there being issues with the valve adjust. Notice how snappy / clacky the valves are? They should be "nice and soft clickety like" when adjusted correctly. Start with the basics: Get the cap off the distributor, and watch the rotor for positioning as you go around and adjust each cylinder.
Your probable distributor layout
32
41
Cylinder arrangement
31
42
What did you set them to? Assuming you have solids?
Bet its something easy to fix. Keep us posted, and good luck.
Oh, and by the way, my wife just yelled at me to turn down that music, cuz she's trying to sleep. Thanks a lot. Maybe she'll find that ad for the Westy trailer?!?! _________________ *****************
"I will gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today." |
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jmstu76 Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004 Posts: 1227 Location: Edmond Oklahoma
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:07 pm Post subject: |
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Kirk, solids or hydros? I thought you were going to do some positive fiddling? _________________ James
'76 Deluxe Sage Green Westy
2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020 |
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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sounds like the valves are loose...i vote re adjust and double check where the rotor on the distributor is.
hydros or solids? _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
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Busdriver79 Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011 Posts: 1655 Location: The Peoples' Republic of "No" Jersey
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 6:09 am Post subject: |
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Yes, it definately sounds like a cement mixer....but it is running on all cylinders...I would just double check the clearances on the valves....I would fix any exhaust leaks too....just to be able to hear the valves more clearly. |
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Kirk Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2003 Posts: 5487 Location: North Texas
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 6:12 am Post subject: |
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jmstu76 wrote: |
Kirk, solids or hydros? I thought you were going to do some positive fiddling? |
Har dee har har har. Don't you have wheel bearings to do?
Solids. Set to .006. Loose. Dammit. Ah well, I love removing and replacing valve covers on this Type 4 soooooooooooo much.
Thats exactly what I thought it was, sadly I was tired and went to bed immediately after that video, so tonight will have to do. Thanks guys.
And Dan, sorry, but garage time is music time. Least down here in the South. _________________ MAKE FORUMS GREAT AGAIN
Bear
Coble
Super
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jmstu76 Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004 Posts: 1227 Location: Edmond Oklahoma
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:53 am Post subject: |
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Kirk wrote: |
jmstu76 wrote: |
Kirk, solids or hydros? I thought you were going to do some positive fiddling? |
Har dee har har har. Don't you have wheel bearings to do?
Solids. Set to .006. Loose. Dammit. Ah well, I love removing and replacing valve covers on this Type 4 soooooooooooo much.
Thats exactly what I thought it was, sadly I was tired and went to bed immediately after that video, so tonight will have to do. Thanks guys.
And Dan, sorry, but garage time is music time. Least down here in the South. |
Well you do have good taste in music. My garage was alive with tunes last nigh as well. Passenger side rear wheel bearing was conpleted last night. I got to bed at midnight. I drove the bus this morning. The drivers side is still chirping though. I'm waiting on an inner bearing to do the other side. It should be at my house Monday.
I find doing my valves alone is difficult. I prefer to be down on the ground while someone rocks the bus while in gear or bumps the starter for me so I can watch what the valves are doing. Exhaust opens, then intake opens immediately after. At that time, I know that cylinder is on the compression stroke. Time to adjust.
Take your time, play some good tunes, you'll get it. _________________ James
'76 Deluxe Sage Green Westy
2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020 |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50336
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:01 am Post subject: |
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jmstu76 wrote: |
Exhaust opens, then intake opens immediately after. At that time, I know that cylinder is on the compression stroke. Time to adjust.
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This would indicate that you are at the top of the exhaust stroke/beginning of the intake stroke. This in not where you should be adjusting your valves.
If you were actually at TDC compression you could adjust the valves accurately 90° either side of center because the valves would not be moving. |
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jmstu76 Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004 Posts: 1227 Location: Edmond Oklahoma
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:15 am Post subject: |
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Wildthings wrote: |
jmstu76 wrote: |
Exhaust opens, then intake opens immediately after. At that time, I know that cylinder is on the compression stroke. Time to adjust.
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This would indicate that you are at the top of the exhaust stroke/beginning of the intake stroke. This in not where you should be adjusting your valves.
If you were actually at TDC compression you could adjust the valves accurately 90° either side of center because the valves would not be moving. |
Wow. It's early and posting from a phone isn't fun. What I meant to say is I watch the valve train and think about what it's doin in relation to the piston. After re-reading what I wrote, I should have added that after the intake closes, now the compression begins. A Crucial step that I forgot to type. Once the piston is safely making compression, the lifters should be on a flat, unramped part of the lobe. This is within the safe zone of 90 degrees either side of TDC.
Again, thanks for the clarification WT. It's all in hopes Kirk has a better night tonight. _________________ James
'76 Deluxe Sage Green Westy
2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020 |
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Kirk Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2003 Posts: 5487 Location: North Texas
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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I'll double check it all tonight. I did the standard remove the cap, roll the motor over till the rotor points at the little line, roll over adjust roll over adjust, etc I've always done. Clearly I did something wrong this time. Thanks for answering my noob question. _________________ MAKE FORUMS GREAT AGAIN
Bear
Coble
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Kirk Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2003 Posts: 5487 Location: North Texas
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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Imma dummy. Seriously. I must have been drunk when I set those. They were waaaaaaaaaaaaaay loose. Got them perfect. Fired off, purrs like a kitten. I'd swear the exhaust leak is better.
Anywhoo. Thanks for the help! _________________ MAKE FORUMS GREAT AGAIN
Bear
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pittwagen Samba Member
Joined: November 08, 2005 Posts: 765 Location: North of the 49th parallel
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:52 pm Post subject: |
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jmstu76 Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004 Posts: 1227 Location: Edmond Oklahoma
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Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:14 am Post subject: |
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Nice work. I think we have all done that once or twice _________________ James
'76 Deluxe Sage Green Westy
2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020 |
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