Syncro Westy Build Log - With Pics

[Hodakaguy]

[Hodakaguy]

Not a lot of progress on my Westy lately, Been working etc. Did manage to take a camping trip with family and friends last weekend, it sure would have been nice to have the westy along!

Tonight's progress....well on Mikes bus anyways . Mike recently sold his H6 and he's going to install a 2.5L, tonight was the night to remove the H6 so it can be transported to it's new home.

Almost ready to pull.

Using a shop vac to suck the coolant out of the system, just crack the bleed up front and you can suck most of the coolant out of the system....nice and clean.

Dropping the engine/trans down.

Disconnecting a few last minute wires/hoses.

Disconnecting the Link ECU

Raising the rear a little more to get clearance to slide the engine out.

Engine/Trans out

Hodakaguy
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[Hodakaguy]

Started tearing down the CV joints last night, I was tired and didn't feel like going out to the bus so thought I'd try and get something done in the garage before bed.

First up was to fabricate a crude tool to remove the CV joints from the axle. This is just a notched piece of stainless scrap I had laying around, I welded on the angle to give it a little more strength.

Ready to pull

Was tired and in to big a hurry to put cardboard down.

Cleaning for me today

After cleaning up the CV joint I took it apart to have a look. Everything is indexed upon disassembly so all the balls will go back in the same race upon re-assembly. In this shot everything is laying out in the order it was assembled in.

All the races looked really good, except one that has a couple flat spots in it that's large enough to catch with my finger. The ball for this race is also pitted and the finish is dull unlike the others. The red arrows are pointing to the worn race.

Worn ball

And worn flat spots

It might be fine once packed with fresh grease.....I think I will install new CV joints and start fresh though, I don't want to have to pull these apart again for a long time

Hodakaguy
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[Hodakaguy]

Ok...probably not what I should be messing with right now.....but...

I borrowed my friends vinyl graphics plotter today and started playing with a couple sticker ideas. Wasn't really in the crawl under the bus mood today

A picture of the plotter....you can cut soooo many cool things with this baby!

After cutting the sticker you have to "weed" it, or remove the sticker material that you don't need.

Once it's all weeded you apply the transfer tape, it's a tape that is sticky enough to lift the graphics off the paper...then once placed on the intended item the graphics are stickier than the transfer paper so you can peel the transfer paper off leaving the stickers behind.

Before....

After....

I have a few more ideas for later

Hodakaguy
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[Hodakaguy]

Progress report.

This am I removed the other CV from the passenger side axle, since making the decision to install new CV joints removing it went faster....I wasn't concerned with keeping all the parts indexed.

Next up...remove the drivers side axle assy. I couldn't find the 6mm Allen socket that I had used previously with my impact to remove the bolts, I did manage to find a 6mm Allen socket with a ball end on it though. I was leery to try it since it wouldn't have a lot of surface contact and might strip the bold head. Oh well...slap that baby on the impact we have progress to make! Pull the trigger and SNAP...now I have a Allen stuck in the bolt...Dohhhhh

. I knew better that to try that!

On to plan B....I will remove the brakes and push the stub axle out the back with the drive axle attached. First up..remove the cotter key holding the axle nut on. Easy you say? Well it's rusted in solid and won't budge. I pry around on it long enough to break off the ends then switch over to using a drift to punch it out. No dice, it's in solid. At this point I attach the nut removal tool and smack it hard a few times with a small sledge...it sheared the cotter pin flush and the nut was off. I'll worry about getting it out of the hole later.

Dissembled the brakes and used a wooden block to knock the stub axle out the back side of the bearing housing. Now just pull the axle assy out....nope, won't clear the trailing arm with the CV still attached.

On to plan C, Pull the trailing arm/axle as an assembly. That went smooth.

Looking pretty bare.

Snapped Allen.

Now that's the assy is off the bus it's time to get the axle out. Removed the 4 bolts on the bearing housing and pulled the axle assy out the front. Done!

A pair of Vise Grips and a hammer quickly removes the offending bolt.

Removed the bearings/seals from the housing, removed the CV joints from the shaft. One CV was nice and smooth the other was stiff...in the garbage they go.

Now to get everything sand blasted and Powder Coated.

I'm also playing with the stickers still....trying to nail down what design I like best.

Hodakaguy
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[MsTaboo]

Looking good! Are you gonna pull the fuel tank while you have the chance?

When I did my Zetec install I contemplated pulling mine, wish I had now.
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[Hodakaguy]

[Hodakaguy]

Got up early and Mike and I removed the fuel tank, it's a tight fit! Now that it's out I will re-seal it and install new fuel lines.

The tank straps and original insulation are in great cond.

Fuel tank

Not much rust behind the fuel tank, small localized spots. They will be dealt with soon.

Parts ready to glass bead.

Cleaned up and ready to be Powder Coated.

Time for a little steam cleaning. Borrowed a steam cleaner and went to town.

This wand is great for cleaning under a vehicle, it adjusts on the fly to get hard to reach areas.

Steam cleaned the engine bay. The original undercoating looks like a tar based stuff and is on there like glue! I can get it off by going really slow with the want but I don't think it's neccesary to remove everything. It's done a great job of keeping the original metal/paint in great cond under it, every spot that I removed it completely looked like new underneath. I will prep it and re-apply undercoating to cover it all again. Once everything is back together I will apply Waxoyl over everything, living in the desert it will stay in great cond for a LONG time

Time to clean up the trans....Before...

And after steam cleaning.

Lots more to go..

Hodakaguy
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[Hodakaguy]

Update.

Time to install new output seals.

I've read where some people are able to remove the output stubs by tapping with a hammer...these are on tight and required a puller. I added a thick washer behind the puller to keep from damaging the threads on the end of the output shaft (Red Arrow).

A seal puller made quick work of removing the seals.

Installing the new seals

...more powder coating.

Freshly coated output shafts installed

Now to remove the shift shaft seal and install a new one. Well I removed the seal but there is a plastic bushing behind it that was either broke or got broke while removing the seal. Hmmmm......

I called Daryl at AA Transaxle to ask him about removing the bushing. He said I could place the trans in nutral and remove the shaft from the trans by removing the reverse switch assy from the opposite side. Once the shaft was removed I could break the latch tab off the bushing and remove it from the trans.

Removing the shift shaft

Broken bushing removed. A replacement will be installed shortly.

Got the POR15 applied ( 3 coats) as well as the POR15 Top coat. I will be using Waxoyl (or similar) to top coat the entire underside and down in the nooks and crannies. Living in the desert it should keep it in great cond for years to come

Hodakaguy
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[honda650r]

[Hodakaguy]

Been working a lot lately so I haven't had a chance to work on the bus much. Did manage to get a little work done today though. Installed the new input and shift shaft seals. Now on to the starter.

I decided to install a Diesel TDI starter so I will have a reliable modern starter that will crank the 2.5L over without a problem, as a side benefit this starter is self supporting so you don't need to use the support bushing in the bell housing that is prone to wear.

I ordered a Bosch SR0408X starter and a Westy Ventures adapter plate, now to install them.

Starter and adapter plate.

Since I'm installing the setup in a Syncro the Diff Locker brackets need to be trimmed. I trimmed the brackets (at the red arrows) so they will clear the starter and powder coated them black.

With the adapter plate temporarily in place the starter is test fitted. You need to trim a small notch in the starter so the upper mounting plate nut has room to seat. (at red arrow)

Starter notched....

Installing the Diff lock brackets, here you can see why the notching is needed for clearance.

Another angle. Here the starter is bolted up tight, I applied a thin layer of Ultra Grey gasket maker to the mating surfaces to keep water out.

You need to notch the corner of the diff actuator to clear the edge of the starter.

Assembled, it's a tight fit but it all goes together.

Shift assy installed along with new rubber shift boots.

More to come

Hodakaguy
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[kuleinc]

That's REALLY impressive quality work. Makes my van look like a heap.
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[ALIKA T3]

Very nice work.

I do like the fact you're doing everything yourself
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[Hodakaguy]

Today's progress.

Pulled the cross shaft bushing.

Using dry ice and denatured alcohol to shrink the new cross shaft bushing for install.

New bushing in place.

The new cross shaft was the same as the old one, welded good on one side and the other side was almost not welded at all, very little penetration. I've read and been warned where the arms are prone to break off since they are really only welded on one side. Since I will be running a higher than stock pressure plate this will need attention.

Here's the side that's welded from the factory.

And the other side....

Now to take care of this problem before installing the new cross shaft. I placed a clamp on the outer edges of the arms before welding. I welded the outside first so the arms would want to pull towards the clamp, then across and to the inside edge. I measured the gap between the arms with a dial caliper before welding and after..no change

Cross shaft with new bushing kit, ready to be installed. For a long time the bushing kit and seals were non existent, you can now get a new set through VanCafe.

Cross shaft installed.

New clutch slave cylinder bolted up with fresh hardware.

New bearings going in the dry ice solution to be installed in the drivers side carrier.

Hodakaguy
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[T3 Pilot]

Great work.

The image of the clutch slave cylinder installed reminded me of how I wished that those nuts were tack welded in place the last time I had to swap the slave out.
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The most important part in every vehicle is the nut behind the wheel......

[Syncroincity]

Isn't the slave cylinder mounted with the hydraulic connection facing the bellhousing? That's where the factory line on my van wants it to be, anyway.
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[Hodakaguy]

[Hodakaguy]

Small amount of progress after work tonight.

Removed the rear bumper and tail lights in preparation for undercoating. This bumper won't be going back on the bus

Removed all the "bolt on" items in the engine bay. Lot's of cleaning and sanding now

Started on sanding....Lots of prep work to go still. There are a few areas that I will spot treat with POR15 before shooting the undercoating. Can't wait to get the undercoating applied....that will be the turning point and things can start going back together again

Drilled out the froze cotter key on the drivers side axle, now I can finish putting the carrier together.

More to come.

Hodakaguy
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[Hodakaguy]

Time to apply the Undercoating.

So far my father and I have spent about 9hrs just on prep of the engine bay getting it ready to coat. I spent 3/4 of the day today under the bus cleaning and prepping. I removed any POR15 that didn't have a secure bond.

Starting to mask things that shouldn't get coating on them.

More Masking....You can get free slip sheets of cardboard at Costco, they work great for things like this

Time to do battle with the undercoat gun. I'm using a Eastwood gun and Wurth undercoating.

The gun...

Ok....Lets go at it.

Not Bad . I would have liked to apply another coat but I ran out of undercoat . The gun worked great but you have to be careful tipping it upside down, the undercoating will flow into the air passages and the gun stops working pretty fast. Had to stop about 3/4 of the way through and clean the gun so I could finish up. I ended up applying 4 bottles of Undercoating to the engine bay/wheel wells.

Now I will apply cavity wax to the frame and any nooks and crannies. Then install the fuel tank, suspension etc.

Going to start looking like something soon!

More to come.

Hodakaguy
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