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Porsche 944 axles and 944 CV's for Vanagons
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Tony_de_whitt
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok

21 3/4 inch on passenger side

19 7/8 inch drivers side

Ive got 2 spacers either side. I'm tempted to take the spacers out on the passenger side bringing them both to just under 20 inch would that be better.

My shocks are land rover and so will not act as a safety net either.

If that makes sense
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tony_de_whitt wrote:
bringing them both to just under 20 inch would that be better


imo yes, Im no expert, just a consumer that has measured a lot of the vans Ive seen, including at syncrofest

I run 21" in the rear, mainly to get more ground clearance for a low hanging motor. My shocks have 1" more length, and I believe they do act to limit extension travel, they are GoWesty 4wd Fox Shocks, and the mounting perch was moved up one inch on my trailing arm. I have a Westy with 2" of shims on passenger side, and 2.5" of shims on driver side. My tdi motor weighs 300 pounds more than a stock wbx, hence the need for such tall shims

so yes, I think I do get your meaning when you say your rover springs dont act as a safety net.. I think you mean they dont act to limit downward wheel travel, which I believe OMEs do.

It might be prudent for you to ask someone with experience, to determine whether limiting straps are needed with your LR shocks, Im not familiar with the application. And I do not know if or how much, the LR shock is longer than the OME

maybe you can do a test to compare info. I put a zip tie around the rear shock shaft. Due to the action of the shock compressing, the zip tie is pushed down 3" from the base of the shock tube, when the vehicle is at rest. That tells me I have 3" of shock compression range.

Then when I jack up the wheel in the air, and measure the exposed shock shaft, to the zip tie, it comes to 6", which suggests I have 3" of downward travel, and a total range of 6" of shock travel.

It might be interesting to get similar info for your LR shock, just for curiosity. I do like my GW adjustable Fox Shocks very much.
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Tony_de_whitt
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 5:17 am    Post subject: Cv Reply with quote

Jon

Ok as i mentioned in my last post that I had purchased 944 cvs. I couldn't get lobro/gkn joints so I had to get the cheap version.

Needed to use van etc etc

Anyway I'm getting a knocking sound and now starting to doubt that the cv joints are actually any different to the ones i already had on the van. All the cv measurements are exactly the same as my old ones, do you know if the cv should be a different size? I would have thought slighty deeper to give better angle.

In your opinion what would be the max measurement from wheel centre to fender that you could run with using the 944 cv. At what measurement would u consider the 930 option. Im at 21 3/4 now I think need to check again but van up on stands.

If I manually turn the cv I can recreate the knock with the cv in my hand. I'm guessing they are rubbish or not 944.

I'm contemplating the 930 option but really would prefer the 944 option. I just dont want to buy the labor and they still not work.

I was un aware of clocking before reading this post. Do you think its worth clocking the ones I have to see if the knocking goes?


Ive read that clocking is where the cvs go big to small on the outer race and can be checked with threaded bar. Does this sound right?

Thx for your time

Anthony
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The outer ring of the 944 joint is only 2mm thicker than the stock joint. The balls of the 944 are 2.5 mil smaller than the stock joint. The extra angle comes from the smaller balls.

clocking is a relationship between the CV at each end of the axle, and yes its a wide narrow thing.

I recently had knocking at a CV joint, and it turned out the bolts had worked loose. Get your bolts retorqued, sometimes they come loose after a new install.

there is NO CV joint I recommend for 21 3/4" ride height. That is simply outside of what I am familiar with. I recommend you not exceed 21" for any reason.

Yes a 930CV has higher operating angle than a 944, but the 930 uses a different axle shaft, and a different stub axle, and a different output flange on the transaxle. I would avoid that expense if at all possible. Generally people who go to 930's have had broken CVs or broken axles, mostly due to stronger than stock motors, offroading. imo, the EJ22 motor is too weak to worry about breaking axles.

> Once new springs were put on i found my shocks to be fully extended and rather an uncomfortable ride.

sounds like your springs may be non standard, and a mismatch for the Vanagon application? I don't know what you have, but since you mention LR shocks, curious if you're mixing and matching non VW gear.

> If I manually turn the cv I can recreate the knock with the cv in my hand.

that sounds unusual, but I don't have any suggestions other than to recheck the bolt tensions.

Here are CV dimensions http://blindchickenracing.com/How_to/CVJoints_Axles/cv_joints_101.htm Type 2 is stock, type 4 is 944

and Clocking instructions. I do not think clocking is required, and it will not change your knocking noise. But, I would clock the CVs IF you have another occasion to remove the axle, and remove one of the CVs, which will be required to clock it. Here are clocking directions
http://www.californiaperformance.com/cv_clocking.htm
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Tony_de_whitt
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon

Thx for your reply.

Had another go at it today.

Managed to get the height down to 20 3/4 inches and after filling with fuel the knock went away.

The springs I bought are the progressive springs that are pretty popular with the syncro.

Bought from syncro services in Germany.

There are 2 options and I went for the heavy duty springs which are rated for syncros over 2.5 tonne.

I think this has been my problem all along.

As I've emptied my syncro whilst i rebuild interior i just think there is not enough weight to compress the springs.

As I put bits back on hopefully it will bring me lower still.

I'm also tempted to get the lighter duty springs for when I'm running lightweight.

The land rover shocks were just a recommendation from a guy on here that he had used them. Readily available and fairly cheap.
The shocks I was using before were old man emu which as I mentioned before were being fully extended which again I'm guessing was due to my springs not compressing.


So hopefully im heading in the right direction now.


Cheers for your replies sorry to have hijacked your thread
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad youre making progress

I always enjoy looking at photos of vans, dont be shy Smile, including images of your natural habitat, Perth is possibly one of the most distant points from my end of the world, California. Always fascinating to see local color.

and also open to learning more about the springs youre using, product link and photos also always welcome

good to hear your knocking went away once you got below 21" ride height, I look forward to your success keeping axles happy.
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wehrbüchse
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ride height can affect this? The Chinese axles come rebuilt with backward star hubs? Ugh. I can't believe what a headache this simple problem has been for the last couple of weeks.

I'll spare you the details but if anyone can advise me I'd be highly obliged. I really don't have time to do much research; I'm on a non-pleasure road trip to the bay area and have to be on the road back to Seattle by Tuesday.

how does the following make any sense?:

The sparkling clean complete rebuilt axle from O'Reilleys ($75, presumably chinese)(but isn't empi chinese?) I installed before heading down here a week ago started knocking yesterday, and the bolts seem perfectly tight by touch and visual inspection. I did't use a torque wrench when I installed them.

-yet-

the axle it replaced had two badly torn boots for two years, often as as a daily driver, and often on dirty, dusty roads before it ever made any noise at all on my lifted 'faux wheel drive' with 215 70 16s (forgot how to measure ride height, and I'm writing this on an iPhone while driving).

I just picked up a used axle from Sleepy Joe yesterday as something to rebuild and install or keep as a backup till I get home. There's also a 944 at a nearby junkyard, not sure what year.

Joe said both axles sound dry to him when shifted back & forth, but both were fully, thoroughly, and properly greased. Should I try injecting more CV grease in using one of those sharp needles? Or just try to rebuild the other axle and take this presumably chinese one back? Or should I avail myself of one of the 944 axles? I have a Bentley to consult during the rebuild.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grease is your friend.
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wehrbüchse
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well I did assume that.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1. The sparkling clean complete rebuilt axle from O'Reilleys ($75, presumably chinese)(but isn't empi chinese?) I installed before heading down here a week ago started knocking yesterday, and the bolts seem perfectly tight by touch and visual inspection. I did't use a torque wrench when I installed them.

I think you should confirm the bolts are tight and drive home on that axle. Then figure out the rest

2. Joe said both axles sound dry to him when shifted back & forth, but both were fully, thoroughly, and properly greased.

not convincing, get him to tighten the bolts. Or if you like, Im sure he has an axle to sell you.

3. Or should I avail myself of one of the 944 axles?

not for the immediate problem, they would need cleaning inspecting, possibly new boots, are not an immediate fix for a van on a trip.

ride height is wheel center to bottom of fender lip. I don't think you have to worry about that factor. After driving on newly installed axles it is typical to retorque bolts after a couple hundred miles.

let us know if your bolts were loose. Torque setting is 33 ft lbs
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bump for the best source for 944 cv's and the best quality boots.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

newfisher wrote:
Bump for the best source for 944 cv's and the best quality boots.


Porsche dealer/supplier....and know what you want and do not want.
Be prepared to pay for the good stuff.

If you want used to rebuild...same as Vanagon parts, you want originals off of unmolested and cared for vehicles...but most will not be selling as they only have junk to replace it with in the lower price points.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

newfisher wrote:
Bump for the best source for 944 cv's and the best quality boots.


I get mine new at AutoZone only because they carry a lifetime warranty, so when one breaks I take it in and replace it for free. So far I haven't had any problems and do not do extreme off roading. I want to say they were about $140-$150 last year so I am not sure what they cost now.

I kept my old CV's for a quick fix to get home as a spare and the core charge was so cheap it was worth keeping them

They do carry all 4 cv axles for the front make sure you get new ones since the rebuilds are incorrect for some reason.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought my 944 CVs thru Pelican Parts.. make sure you get the proper spline count for the Vanagon axle shafts.
T3 technique has the Rockford CV boots.. Have not ordered a set yet myself.. but soon. My OG boots are holding their own for the time being.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

j_dirge wrote:
I bought my 944 CVs thru Pelican Parts.. make sure you get the proper spline count for the Vanagon axle shafts.
T3 technique has the Rockford CV boots.. Have not ordered a set yet myself.. but soon. My OG boots are holding their own for the time being.

Me too, here's the page (33-spline) for my manual transmission 2WD westy that I put these on:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_inf...N%20Loebro
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Insyncro..too rich for my blood.

I did contact Chris at T3 and probobly going that route.


smurfpike wrote:
newfisher wrote:
Bump for the best source for 944 cv's and the best quality boots.


I get mine new at AutoZone only because they carry a lifetime warranty, so when one breaks I take it in and replace it for free. So far I haven't had any problems and do not do extreme off roading. I want to say they were about $140-$150 last year so I am not sure what they cost now.

I kept my old CV's for a quick fix to get home as a spare and the core charge was so cheap it was worth keeping them

They do carry all 4 cv axles for the front make sure you get new ones since the rebuilds are incorrect for some reason.


All I can find at Autozone are the rebuilds.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

luVWagn wrote:
j_dirge wrote:
I bought my 944 CVs thru Pelican Parts.. make sure you get the proper spline count for the Vanagon axle shafts.
T3 technique has the Rockford CV boots.. Have not ordered a set yet myself.. but soon. My OG boots are holding their own for the time being.

Me too, here's the page (33-spline) for my manual transmission 2WD westy that I put these on:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_inf...N%20Loebro


Thanks guys for the info on Pelican!
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

newfisher wrote:
luVWagn wrote:
j_dirge wrote:
I bought my 944 CVs thru Pelican Parts.. make sure you get the proper spline count for the Vanagon axle shafts.
T3 technique has the Rockford CV boots.. Have not ordered a set yet myself.. but soon. My OG boots are holding their own for the time being.

Me too, here's the page (33-spline) for my manual transmission 2WD westy that I put these on:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_inf...N%20Loebro


Thanks guys for the info on Pelican!


All parts listed on the link provided are the same CVs that you would get from any of the Vanagon vendors, just so you know.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
newfisher wrote:
luVWagn wrote:
j_dirge wrote:
I bought my 944 CVs thru Pelican Parts.. make sure you get the proper spline count for the Vanagon axle shafts.
T3 technique has the Rockford CV boots.. Have not ordered a set yet myself.. but soon. My OG boots are holding their own for the time being.

Me too, here's the page (33-spline) for my manual transmission 2WD westy that I put these on:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_inf...N%20Loebro


Thanks guys for the info on Pelican!


All parts listed on the link provided are the same CVs that you would get from any of the Vanagon vendors, just so you know.

I thought the 944 CVs are different than stock vanagon ones for articulation, and thus a better fit especially if lifted?
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You get what you pay for Exclamation

Do a little research on the subject.
I have posted pictures of the "real" 944 CVs vs the ones for $75.

If you dont believe me, read the Porsche forums, you will hear tons of bitching over low quality parts that are now seen as "universal" by large parts warehouses.

Again, if the joint isn't north of $200, you are not getting what you think you are getting.

Edit: If you want more articulation and much better quality...930s are the answer.
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