Official Type 34 thread

[Kharon8]

[Kharon8]

[Kharon8]

We've progressed so far that quarter window is going back and we got new seals for it, but really no idea how the seal goes in.
Basic form is U-seal, but it has a groove on the other side and long lip on the other side.

BobNotch had used a type14 seal which is different, so his pics aren't helping to this problem.

Sorry for no pics about this, I should have taken camera with me. I also sent an email to seller, they should know but no idea when they've time to answer.

Also some other questions:

Are the locking mechanisms in doors same as typ3? As driver side lock is somehow broken from the inside and latch doesn't really work properly. Getting another one from spare part T3 shouldn't be to hard.

Hood lock button also has a seal, but ISP West is asking $20 for one, the remains of the old one more or less look like an o-ring so one should do the job. Any objections?
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Kharon -- '62 typ1, '63 typ14, '61 typ21, '65 typ34, '74 412, '75 typ26
FVWA.fi support group.

[gregson1]

Kharon--not sure what's going on, but I can't respond to you via PM through the Samba.

Martin Hoontrakul is making the Type 34 Hook Deflectors through Shapeways. He's done a number of other products, as well. Check them all out here:

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=Type+34

Thanks for the link to your restoration page. There's some VERY NICE work being done, in my opinion.

[Kharon8]

[Kharon8]

Had some time yesterday so I fixed bunch of weird electric problems.

Front right parking light wasn't working as the small copper spring which does provide the ground contact to bulb was a bit of out of shape and did't reach to bulb, barely visible gap.

Took some time and bunch of resistance/voltage measurements to find as it was looking OK. It wasn't.

Other register plate light wasn't burning and missing ground contact was found fast, but cleaning contact point didn't help at all. What the heck?

The seal was so hard (*clink* -hard) that it didn't give at all and so the contact pin didn't reach to bumper when you tightened the screws. Hah!

Cut most of the seal between light frame and bumper away, so now it works and rock hard seal doesn't seal much anyway, better try to find new seals.

Then the real mystery: Speedo & clock background lights.

~6V comes to lamp, no lights. OK, quick measurements show that no ground. What the heck, take 2.

This caused a lot of pondering as there's zero grounding points visible for those and eventually we deduced that the backside of instrument panel doesn't have paint from the factory, so the gauge attachment band has had double function as grounding point.

We of course painted that part also so no ground. Fixed that with separare grounding wire and now we've lights in gauges, nice. Those are very, very dim and really can't be seen in normal room lighting at all. Probably work when it's dark, but at least the bulbs are lighted.
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Kharon -- '62 typ1, '63 typ14, '61 typ21, '65 typ34, '74 412, '75 typ26
FVWA.fi support group.

[gregson1]

After seeing the horrible amount of rust on other cars, I made sure my body shop sealed/primed/painted everything, inside and out. I've had the same problem as you with grounding points for the dash lights and wiper motor ground. I had problems installing the fog lights because there was too much paint on the outer lip of the bucket. Grounds for the front turn signal housings were another problem area.

We are 'over-restoring' our cars!

356 license plate light seals work OK for our cars. There are two seals:

Base Gasket:
http://www.nlaparts.com/store/license-light-base-gasket-p-1624.html

Lens Gasket:
http://www.nlaparts.com/store/license-light-lens-gasket-p-1909.html

[Bobnotch]

[t3kg]

[Kharon8]

Thanks for the comments, so it was what I thought it was: Over-restored backside of the panel. Well, nothing major.

And yes, the problem with fog lights is familiar also, very tight fit.

Did some work in Monday and fixed brake lights (grounding problem between bulb and frame, nothing major), connected wiper motor (it works and even stops at rest position, nice) and cigarette lighter (said grounding problem for it too, separate ground wire fixed that).

Almost all electric parts are now connected sans side blinkers (the small plastic/copper part between wire end and bulb has been lost and AFAIK is not sold separately) and interior light (forgot to cut hole to roof canvas at installation and now it doesn't have a place).

Horn wasn't working at all, totally oxidized breaker points, but disassembly, cleaning and assembly helped and now it works. Made a page from previous round (with type14 horns but same horn):
http://kharon.suomiforum.com/www/horns/

We've only one horn so I'll have to look for another. The one we have is marked 'hoch', so low tone horn is missing.

Base engine is now assembled and some of the accessories are connected so it also progresses.

Better start early in the winter so there's less panic in the spring ... somehow the time from January to May is much shorter than time from August to December when you ought to have everything done by start of May.
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Kharon -- '62 typ1, '63 typ14, '61 typ21, '65 typ34, '74 412, '75 typ26
FVWA.fi support group.

[Chuck67]

Stupid question
1965 T34 converted to 12V by PO
How do I know if the wiper motor is 6V or 12V?

Thanks,
Chuck

[tanhis]

[Chuck67]

[Bobnotch]

[reay]

[Bobnotch]

[Chuck67]

Anyone using a hidden type stereo? If so how do you like it?
Which one do you have?

Thanks,
Chuck

[Kharon8]

[Chuck67]

[notchboy]

Link


Link

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