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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1867
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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 Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 7:12 am Post subject: Engine Component Paint, Exhaust Paint, Exhaust Wraps, etc? |
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So i'm working on building up a 2.1 to stick back in a bus and all the bolt on components have been sand blasted, soaked in SEM Rust mort, primed with a high zinc primer, and waiting to paint.
The game plan was to paint the components body color, as i've never seen this done on a WBXer. I was going to get a quart of paint mixed up from the local paint shop and spray them, possibly clear coating them (But not sure on that).
Now people are informing me that this won't work. Some are telling me the paint has to be high heat (Though the intake system and pulleys really don't see THAT much heat) and others tell me it must be fuel/oil proof in some way. Some tell me theres no body paint that will hold up (But then what's the engine bay painted with....?), and others tell me if you don't clear coat it you will have problems. Then yet others tell me that the clear coat is what will be the problem.
Also, I'm putting on some very good used exhaust components and wondering if there is anything I can do to make these last longer here in western PA.
Does BBQ grill paint or exhaust paint actually work?
I've always been told they don't work, but that can't be the general consensus if people keep buying it, right?
What products have you used, and how have they held up?
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61Scout
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Joined: November 06, 2011
Posts: 1297
Location: Shoreline/Yakima WA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 7:46 am Post subject: |
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Well, like yourself I've received lots of varying information over the years on this subject. What I've found works best is NO primer and a good enamel paint. I've found the primer makes the paint too soft and if you knock it with a tool it will chip. So basically I just blast the crap out of the tin, wash, and then paint directly on metal. I like Rust-Oleum for this job, easy to find and inexpensive. I've used it for years, no problem with oil or cleaners. No problems with flaking off or deteriorating either. The only place I haven't been able to use it is on the exhaust, obviously. For exhaust components BBQ paint works well if you like flat black. You can also shop for VHT high temp paints, or go down to your local woodstove store and shop for stove paints which often come in more colors.
A few tips I've worked out over the years... 1) Use gloves. I use gloves from the cleaning stage all through the painting stage. I've found if I touch the paint between coats, the oil from my fingertips ruins the finish on the second coat. 2) Hang everything. I don't try to place stuff on the ground on cardboard and flip it over. It just picks up too much dust during the painting process. 3) Clean your shop before painting. I've found even if I do a quick touch up around the shop and vacuum the floors with the shop vac I get less dust in the finish. Of course if you have a booth this doesn't matter. 4) Allow it to fully cure before installing. I personally wait a week before re-installing components.
This is just the way I do things... many would not agree with my methods, and I'm sure there are other ways of doing things, but it has worked for me. Been following your project Phish, looks great man.
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Christopher Schimke
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Joined: August 03, 2005
Posts: 5390
Location: PNW
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| Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 7:50 am Post subject: Re: Engine Component Paint, Exhaust Paint, Exhaust Wraps, et |
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| Phishman068 wrote: |
Now people are informing me that this won't work. |
Sure it will...if it is done correctly.
| Quote: |
| Some are telling me the paint has to be high heat (Though the intake system and pulleys really don't see THAT much heat) |
You could prep and paint the entire engine (everything but the exhaust) and the only place that you would have real trouble with heat is near the exhaust ports on the heads. Everything else will be just fine.
| Quote: |
| and others tell me it must be fuel/oil proof in some way. Some tell me theres no body paint that will hold up (But then what's the engine bay painted with....?), |
Not completely true! However, all of the durability will come down to proper prep, proper materials and proper application...and you need all three. For instance, you could do everything right, but if you use a non-catalyzed enamel, it may stay on and look great for years, but it won't be very resistant to chemicals. Oil usually isn't too much of a problem, but fuel will attack uncatalyzed enamel. I would suggest nothing less than a catalyzed urethane or catalyzed enamel for your paint. Do not consider plain basecoat (un-clearcoated), uncatalyzed enamel or lacquer.
| Quote: |
| and others tell me if you don't clear coat it you will have problems. Then yet others tell me that the clear coat is what will be the problem. |
For this particular application, the only reason for clearcoat would be if you used a basecoat for your color coat. Basecoat is not very durable and would need to be clearcoated for protection. If you use a single-stage paint, you don't need to clearcoat it as it will be durable just as it is. Adding clearcoat over the top of a single-stage could actually make it less durable due to the increased film build.
| Quote: |
Does BBQ grill paint or exhaust paint actually work?
I've always been told they don't work, but that can't be the general consensus if people keep buying it, right? |
VHT exhaust paint can work okay for a while, but the parts have to be prepped perfectly (perfectly clean, bare metal) and it won't last forever. If you plan on keeping up on maintaining it (removing the deteriorated areas and respraying), it could help keep the exhaust in good shape, but most people expect to be able to apply it once and forget it.
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32592
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:13 am Post subject: |
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Yet again........we are traveling the same path!
Same thought processes, same "discovery" time frame.
On the exhaust, this I know...... The majority of Exhaust decay comes from the inside out.
This is why the life span is less for exhaust systems used for short local runs. The heat doesn't build up hot enough to displace the moisture out of the pipes that is naturally found in the atmosphere and from the combustion process.
Yes, exterior paint will help, but it isn't the answer to a long exhaust life........ Long drives are.
I am using single Stage automotive paint to redo my engine compartment, cleaning it up and dealing with minor unsightly rust.
My Engine case?........ I'm thinking of leaving it alone or maybe a clear coat.
The manifolds? I'm going with Black.
I could use single stage automotive black but for convenience I'd rather use a rattle can.
Apparently Motorcycle shops market a good chemical resistant rattle can paint for use on the frames and fuel tanks. I've yet to stop by and see what they stock.
What intrigues me is finding a solution to the Gold color anodized coating found on so many parts such as the pressure regulator, the latch hatch, door strikers, etc.
How to renew and restore this color.
Dave
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Phishman068
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Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1867
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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240Gordy
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Joined: May 15, 2008
Posts: 2354
Location: Vancouver, BC
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| Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 12:09 pm Post subject: |
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| djkeev wrote: |
What intrigues me is finding a solution to the Gold color anodized coating found on so many parts such as the pressure regulator, the latch hatch, door strikers, etc.
How to renew and restore this color.
Dave |
Methinks that is a kind of zinc plating. The swiss race taxi site has great pics of some restored suspension components.
I think Christopher is not to be doubted on this. It is an area of his expertise.
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spacecadet
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Joined: June 02, 2012
Posts: 158
Location: San Francisco
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| Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 12:11 pm Post subject: |
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I wrapped my exhaust headers in 1200 degree Kevlar wrap.. not saying it will improve longevity, but my engine bay got significantly cooler! - Might be good for paint. It definitely helps with working under the van after running it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051US5M4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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jimeg
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Location: PNW
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bluebus86
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Joined: September 02, 2010
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| Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 9:05 am Post subject: |
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The exhaust system i had ceramic coated (kind of like powder coating, but higher temp) I had a specialty place do that for me. it worke best on new metal, on the old parts, dispite them sand blasting them clean rust did return, but sicne I used black ceramic, i was able to fix the bad spots with rustoleum high temp BBQ paint. I have also used Rustoleum BBQ paint with good results on my 914 ad bug's mufflers, lasts pretty well and touch ups are easy. this is much more economical than ceramic coating.
i useDuplicolor engine enamal or rustoleum enamal on the other parts, brackets, intake headers and such. the duplicolor engine enamal holds up a tad better than rustoleum on parts that get warm like the ends of the intake runners near the heads (the rustoleum enamal darkened a bit near the heads.) the duplicolor also dries faster than rustoleum.
the exaust bolts need a high temp paint, like BBQ paint. also use lots of antiseize when assembly is done on these bolts.
the engine bay (body sheet metal) should be given a rust proofing, teh factory did mine in a wax type material over the paint. this will avoid seam rust |
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PDXWesty
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kirsplat
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Joined: April 30, 2008
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Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 9:33 am Post subject: |
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I've seen Por20 used on exhaust with good results.
The exhaust was sandblasted before it was applied.
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90weekender
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Zeitgeist 13
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Joined: March 05, 2009
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Location: Port Manteau
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| Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2020 6:26 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Component Paint, Exhaust Paint, Exhaust Wraps, etc? |
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I have had really good luck with Rust-Oleum High Heat BBQ paint. It's held up for several years, even on mufflers and other piping on my TDI van. Super happy.
[EDIT] I guess I should mention that I painted my exhaust manifold prior to wrapping it with a thermal wrap, and after many years there's been no rust showing at the seams or edges. Mind you, I was pretty skeptical when I painted it, but it's holding quite well so far.
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Californio
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Joined: May 17, 2007
Posts: 1305
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| Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2020 6:43 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Component Paint, Exhaust Paint, Exhaust Wraps, etc? |
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| Sharkhide says it's 100% proudly American made. At $40 for 11 ounces how could you go wrong. Inert ingredients include huile de serpent. |
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Jake de Villiers
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Joined: October 24, 2007
Posts: 5911
Location: Tsawwassen, BC
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| Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 8:05 am Post subject: Re: Engine Component Paint, Exhaust Paint, Exhaust Wraps, etc? |
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| Californio wrote: |
| huile de serpent. |
That sh*t's mighty expensive for a product that seems to be readliy available just about everywhere!! 
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