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Another coolant horror story.....
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ss1642
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 3:12 pm    Post subject: Another coolant horror story..... Reply with quote

Doing my annual west coast trip from San Diego up the coast, usually stop at Big Sur, this year the goal was Oregon and I convinced the wife to come along (uh oh).
Made it to Ventura, stopped for gas, 5 mins into pumping I hear a loud "Wooosh" and see coolant spreading across the concrete. Blown hose. I am not a mechanic and I dont carry extra hoses (should !?) (is duct tape an otion?) Took it to a non-VW place, after day one they replace the hose but cant get the fan to go on (it was working before), on day two they replace the reservoir sensor seal and the radiator fan switch. blinky light is flashing but they say it is not out of the ordinary.
On the road, made it to San Jose, blew another hose. Tow it to a VW guy in Watsonville, he says I need the bleeder junction, and he replaces the hose. He charges me 235 for fancy metal junction, I see van cafe has it for 175. My wife and I rent a car to Eugene.
On the way back, I pick up the van, it runs like a charm, no blinky light Smile Make it to Santa Barbara heading south and woooosh, blew hose #3.

Tow it to a Firestone, they replace hose, do a pressure check and it runs like a charm (no blinky light). They even run it for 30 in their garage and fan runs like a charm. 15 mins into the freeway run, blinky light comes on and I pull over and I realize fan is not coming on. The Firestone is closed, so returning is not an option. Freeway driving ok, but heats up during city driving. Limp back home.

Qustion: Is the radiator fan switch the most likely cause of the fan not coming on? Work at Ventura shop was warrantied for one year, do I drive it back up and have them redo it?
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theDrew
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

check the reservoir cap? -- it should let pressure out at something like 12psi. too much pressure in the system will do all kinds of bad things, like blow hoses.
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PDXWesty
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it could be a bad radiator. The fan should only need to come on when you're sitting in traffic. If it comes on while driving (unless you have the AC on), there's something wrong.
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theDrew
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

is the radiator warm/hot/cold?
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eeebee
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blowing hoses could be the pressure cap. It's cheap and easy to replace so do it.

The blinky light is usually just low on coolant. After bleeding it can take a while to get all the air out. On new models, the air will generally find its way to the reservoir if it was bleed correctly. I have heard that the older models are more difficult and may need to be bled again at the radiator.

The fan didn't work, then did work, then didn't again? The fan is controlled by a different sensor half way up the radiator. If the radiator is not full and the sensor is not wet then the fan won't come on. Could be other things though.

Get it bled correctly. I have done my '87 many times and it is not that hard. I don't know about the earlier ones except what I've read on The Samba. What are you driving? Use the search if necessary.

Good luck.
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duderanchero
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just wanted to say, i've been running the morymob unpressurized system (drill 1/16" hole through disc in pressure cap), and things have been working much better. i live in el paso, tx. it's way hot.

there is a root problem to address here (clogged radiator, low-speed fan resistor busted, pinched hose, etc.), but drilling a hole in the pressure cap (not all the way) could take some stress off the hoses, gaskets, etc.
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Petervw
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

duderanchero wrote:
just wanted to say, i've been running the morymob unpressurized system (drill 1/16" hole through disc in pressure cap), and things have been working much better. i live in el paso, tx. it's way hot.

there is a root problem to address here (clogged radiator, low-speed fan resistor busted, pinched hose, etc.), but drilling a hole in the pressure cap (not all the way) could take some stress off the hoses, gaskets, etc.
,,,on another vw vehicle I have owned blew hoses because of a headgasket leak..cylinder compression entering the coolant...
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MSmyth
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Petervw wrote:
duderanchero wrote:
just wanted to say, i've been running the morymob unpressurized system (drill 1/16" hole through disc in pressure cap), and things have been working much better. i live in el paso, tx. it's way hot.

there is a root problem to address here (clogged radiator, low-speed fan resistor busted, pinched hose, etc.), but drilling a hole in the pressure cap (not all the way) could take some stress off the hoses, gaskets, etc.
,,,on another vw vehicle I have owned blew hoses because of a headgasket leak..cylinder compression entering the coolant...


This is also my guess... replace the pressure tank cap first (cheap fix and worth the effort), but if you still have an overpressurization issue such as blown hoses, temp gauge light blinking, it sounds like an internal exhaust gas head leak.

When I had this issue I could keep the RPMs up on the motor and the water pump could "keep things moving" and prevent the gases in the cooling system from pooling in the tank, pushing them away from the sensor. I was able to keep the revs up, even when stopping, and limp home.
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ss1642
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont fully understand the 1/16" hole, is that in the reservoir cap, or the cap in the main coolant container.

After running hot in city traffic, the fan finally comes on but after the needle is over 3/4.

After another hot day driving, after about 10 mins I opened the cap of the main coolant container and "glug, glug, glug" coolant flowed into the container filling it up, I dont know if it came from the reservoir or the main system, but now the system runs fine, no blinky light, needle stays at about 2/5 even in heavy traffic.... What happened?
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atomatom
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
After another hot day driving, after about 10 mins I opened the cap of the main coolant container and "glug, glug, glug" coolant flowed into the container filling it up, I dont know if it came from the reservoir or the main system, but now the system runs fine, no blinky light, needle stays at about 2/5 even in heavy traffic.... What happened?


It's not clear which container you mean - the one behind the licence plate is the overflow tank. I'm guessing this is what you mean.

The overflow tank should have a hole in it - it should not be pressurized. Based on opening the cap and fluid filling it, it sounds like the hole is blocked. I've no idea where that hole is, but I just replaced my overflow tank and the new one is not pressurized (I simply squeezed it and hear the sound of air going in and out. Like a squeaky toy with no squeaker!)
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Homercules
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure but isn't all the excess pressure in the system vented through the expansion tank? ie Pressure builds in the system as it heats up until the cap senses too much and vents by pushing liquid into the expansion/overflow tank. When the system pressure drops (vacuum) that fluid is pulled back into the pressure tank. As long as the pressure cap is working and the expansion/overflow tank can breathe all should work fine. If the expansion tank is plugged then the system could easily overpressure right?

So check the blue cap and the expansion/overflow cap.[/i]
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Last edited by Homercules on Fri Jul 27, 2012 12:45 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Homercules wrote:
Not sure but isn't all the excess pressure in the system vented through the expansion tank? ie Pressure builds in the system as it heats up until the cap senses too much and vents by pushing liquid into the expansion tank. When the system pressure drops (vacuum) that fluid is pulled back into the pressure tank. As long as the pressure cap is working and the expansion tank can breathe all should work fine. If the expansion tank is plugged then the system could easily overpressure right?

So check the blue cap and the expansion cap.


You probably have your terminology wrong. What should more correctly be called the pressure tank and has the blue pressure cap on it, VW calls the expansion tank.
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Homercules
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right! I should have said overflow not expansion. Fixed.
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Navy_Flyer
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 'overflow' tank (the one behind the license plate) is not pressurized. There is a vented tab at the top of that tank to let air in/out as coolant comes in/out from the expansion/pressure tank (w/blue cap). Make sure that the vented tab opening is clear on the overflow tank.

Another thing to check is that the hose from the blue cap that connects to the bottom of the overflow tank is not kinked closed by being too short (happens if you trim the end to the cap once too often - I know from experience), or blocked by debris so there is a free path to/from the overflow tank.
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duderanchero
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ss1642 wrote:
I dont fully understand the 1/16" hole, is that in the reservoir cap, or the cap in the main coolant container.


sorry, didn't check back til now. i'm talking about the blue cap on the coolant reservoir, not the overflow tank. like morymob, i drilled a small hole through the underside, but not so far as to go through the blue plastic. i guess there's a metal disc between the blue and black plastic pieces--it's this that needs to be pierced.

what it does is allow coolant to flow from the reservoir into the overflow tank (which is not pressurized). it's probably not ideal; it's a cheap workaround for a cooling system that is problem-prone.
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