Lightest Street Valvetrain Parts Available

[bugguy1967]

Can Anyone inform me on some of the lightest off the shelf streetable valvetrain parts? I've never used CB lifters, but I hear they are some of the lightest available, aside from exotic Udo B. lifters. What about pushrods, valves, retainers, keepers, adjusters, and rockers?

Also, while I'm on this, are there certain valve guides that wear less than others?

I'm only interested in streetable parts that can hold up in a daily driven car. Also, no super exotic custom made parts. Thanks.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[66brm]

Is this for a HP engine or a stockish driver? Dual valve springs?
_________________
Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval

[bugguy1967]

My engine is a 2110 and W120 cam. I'm not concerned with info regarding springs. Just everything else.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[66brm]

You mightn't be but it will affect your choices, stock pushrods are lightest but also weakest, titanium spring retainers and valves.

But I wouldn't use stock pushrods in your engine, I would run ACNets HD ali rods though
_________________
Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval

[MURZI]

Why bother......a simple cam change will make more power than lighter parts... W120 is pretty mild.
_________________
62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam

[yamaducci]

This is a great question.
It really applies to stockish engines and 1600 class race cars that are limited in what can be done. Why bother? if you are limited on what you can modify then lightening parts nets HP. The HP would otherwise be lost as kinetic energy. Another tweek that is in-line with lightening the valve train is reducing the size of the oil pump but blueprinting it to maximize it's pumping ability..
This combo can easily handle 6000-6500 RPM safely; more with careful attention.
Keeping what you have streetable and ONLY changing the valve train components to the lightest matching parts would look something like this.
Bugpack single springs, Titanium retainers, Chromoly Keepers, Billet Aluminum Rocker arms like Pauter Machine. Manley Stainless Steel valves kept as small as possible, Silicone bronze guides, Aircooled.net Aluminum pushrods, and either CB Performance Ultralight lifters or the lightest Udo Becker tools steel lifters (about $600).
There are other tricks that can be done like taking Chromoly retainers and endmilling the edges to remove material, turning down lifter faces, tapering the pushrods if using light springs, welding the pusrod tips closed to keep oil out and adding spray bars to accomplish the valve train oiling task, removing excess adjusting screw material, using beehive springs which allow you to turn-down the retainer to a very small size..
OK now I am getting too far in to the machine shop and not so much "off-the-shelf".
There is your recipe! Enjoy.
_________________
-John Cox
My 2498 Turbo Re-Build Thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5578697#5578697

3rd Brake Light Safety Stars- I still have a couple with blue light left. Email me if interested.

[Eaallred]

Find out if Remmele lifters are still avaliable. Those will be the lightest lifters avaliable for the T1.
_________________
Eric Allred

You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn.

[tmcdade]

[Eaallred]

http://remmelemotorsport.com/

I clicked around, but didn't see anything for thier lifters anymore. Wonder if they discontinued them. They were quite awesome while they were avaliable.
_________________
Eric Allred

You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn.

[tmcdade]

[SRP1]

Here's the straight answer based on your combo using affordable and avilable parts;

CB lightweight 28mm lifters
CB titanium retainers
CB 1.3 rockers (yes I know w-120 cam)
Standard heavy duty dual valve springs
AC.net straight wall HD aluminum push rods
Stainless steel valves (titanium is not practical for street use)

That's it.......beyoud that your stepping out and spending some bigger dough, and
waitng for one off parts.

[tmcdade]

[bugguy1967]

Some people aren't getting what I asked. First, titanium retainers and valves are 1. not street worthy and 2. not specifying a specific type or brand. Titanium retainers will wear very quickly according to a few machinists that I've spoken to over the weekend. Also, I'm not looking to make more power or power in a different rpm range. A bigger cam will only make more power if I modify the rest of my recipe to match the cam.

Thanks for everyone who's sticking to the original question.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[SRP1]

FYI, the CB titanium retainers have proven to be more durable than I ever expected!
Normally I would agree with your machinist, but these are made right.

[tmcdade]

[bugguy1967]

I posted before I read on. It seems a lot of people are recommending Ti retainers. Are any of you using them? The machinists are old dogs, stuck to what they know. I am very open minded to trying to get away with what is not the norm or proven. I was told that the retainers would wear out in short order.

Edit: Read up on ACDN's aluminum pushrods. What's the difference from their normal aluminum pushrods and their dual tapered? I'm going to order a set of CB titanium retainers and lifters as well.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[SRP1]

I am an engine builder by trade, and I use the TI retainers I recommended. Like I said I would normally agree with your machinist, but I found something that has proven otherwise.

The AC dual taper push rods are directed more toward really high valve spring pressures.
They are very strong, and more than what you will ever need in your combo.

[tmcdade]

[bugguy1967]

I'll try to look into Bugpack's as well. I'm glad to hear that they've held up against regular driving.

What about Ti valves makes them un-streetable as far as we know? Will the stem wear more rapidly? Long term head temps? I wonder if ceramic coating them will make them hold up.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[Bruce]

Forget Ti valves.
First you must swap out the valve seats in the heads for Ti compatible seats.
They are not as stable as steel valves. A buddy tried them on the street a few years ago. Every time he drove the car, he had to set the valve lash. It was always changing.

Ti retainers are reliable. I bought a used set in the 90s then ran them for 60k miles. They're still in great shape and will go into another engine one day.
_________________