My attempt at a 1904

skills@eurocarsplus · Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 4:06 pm Post subject: My attempt at a 1904

well, i have this:

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need to jam it in this

and stuff it in here

the build:

1904
full flow (filter and cooler)
mocal sandwich plate adapter
110 cam (reusing cam and lifters. all checked out fine)
ac.net L3 heads
90.5 p/c's
74mm crank
13 lb flywheel
5.3 rods
berg o ring 26mm oil pump
stock (well aftermarket) heater boxes
1 3/8 header
019 distrubutor
34 ICT's
dual pressure relief case
10mm studs w/case savers
.040 deck 8.1 compression
62cc chambers
^^^^^^^^^^^^
may have missed something

i am hoping for a decent amount of torque. i may or may not get it dyno'ed, the shop that will be doing the balance job has a dyno.

so what do you think? did i miss anything? any shoulda-woulda-coulda things i should know about? this is my first stroker, i think i did my research but you never know. i am all about doing it right the first time.

all my measurements seem ok. not crazy about the rod side play it seemed a bit big. i used plastigauge on all the bearings, mic'ed the ones i couldn't and the oil clearance is .002 average. seems about right from what i have read.

i have mocked this thing up about 100 times, and still have another 100 to go.
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jfats808 · Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 4:30 pm Post subject:

It'll do. I would've went a 15lb flywheel personally and the h beams are overkill. Everything looks good to go for a daily.
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75smith · Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 4:44 pm Post subject:

looks good, the carburetors may be a bit restrictive, would have gone with Dual Weber 40 IDF's

also agree with the flywheel, 15 pounds might have been better(all opinion on this one I think)

are you gonna post build pictures along the way? I think it would be nice to see more of these short strokers built and with pictures
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Glenn · Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 4:46 pm Post subject:

Dual 40mm Dellorto DRLAs and a Bosch 019.
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SRP1 · Samba Member Joined: January 06, 2007 Posts: 4340

Looks pretty good.
The 5.3" rods will pull harder on the intake track which will help with low RPM torque.
The higher piston speed will also help improve the signal to the carbs, are you familiar with the idle quality from a 110 cam when running ict's?

Clearences sound ok, not sure what I can say here when using plastigauge other than make sure nothing goes under .002" a little more is better at the #1 and #2 mains.
Sounds like this engine will be perfect for 10w-30 or lighter oil.
Did you check the end play in the oil pump gears?

skills@eurocarsplus · Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 6:50 pm Post subject:

DarthWeber · Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 8:31 pm Post subject:

I think your original parts list is fine with one exception.................drop the 90.5's and get a set of machine in 88's. Your combo will match up better with 1800cc's rather than 1904cc's.
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[email protected] · Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 8:41 pm Post subject:

you can do it for under $1k, but you have to be willing to do a lot of the work yourself. Like clearancing the case.

If you are like me you say "eff that" and buy the H-beam rods so they drop right in without clearancing. That's $270 "wasted which blows the "budget", but it's easier! All the optional stuff is what allows the price to get away from you.

We had one guy who we just heard back from in Florida, he retained his stock cam and FI, and used his stock rods and flywheel, so he could afford a pair of L3 heads. Stock rods require a lot more clearancing, H-beams drop in without it.

Came in well under budget for his Type 3, and he's VERY happy with it.

It all depends on what your time is worth.
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SRP1 · Samba Member Joined: January 06, 2007 Posts: 4340

Nah, stay with the 1904 and if the ict's don't meet the need once underway then step up the carbs to dual 40 idf's. Easy bolt on option at that point.
What ring and pinion is in that bus? I think the13lbs flywheel will be just right with the added crank weight being the crank is counterweight, and stroked.
Stock crank and 13lbs flywheel not so much, but thats a much different combo.
I think the combo is pretty close to perfect if you sit down figure in all the changes and factors involved when compared to a stock engine.

skills@eurocarsplus · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 5:00 am Post subject:

John....no worries. My time is worth something for sure. I am of the mindset spend your time or spend your money....don't spend both. I really don't have a buget but I don't *need* this engine. It is being built because I have nothing going on right now.

As for switching pistons/cylinders not gonna happen. What I have now is what I'm running with.

Now should I seriously look into carbs? You guys have me worried that I will want to kick a puppy if I run the ICT's (which I already have). Tell the truth...I'm a big boy and can handle it. SRP...you have been more help than you know and I value your input. As far as a ring and pinion I am unsure. The po claimed a freeway flier. I am turning about 35 3600 at an honest gps'ed 68 mph

If you think the ict will run like a bag of shit I am willing to buy some hpmx's I just worry that old used carbs will be walking backwards.
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luckystiff · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 5:18 am Post subject:

yep studying the hell outta different parts is where/how you can save a little build money. mock up is to come possibly later this week but it really looks like with my 5.5" Revmaster I beams and 92b's i may not have to do any clearancing and if so it's going to be VERY minimal and they were $125 shipped to my door. i dug around and got my web 163 and web lifters for and $35 less than the next cheapest place and almost $50 cheaper than if i went straight to web. i'm still well over a grand but probably still under 2 grand and for a 2021 i'll be happy with that...ken....
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[email protected] · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:23 am Post subject:

I really don't like dual 1bbls, but of all of them ICTs are the best ones. For the engine you are building they are fine, especially if you already have them! Just don't get your panties in a wad about the "idles on 2 cylinders" thing that all dual 1bbls have.
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skills@eurocarsplus · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:06 am Post subject:

No wadded panties here. I do have the balance tube in it now and that allowed me to tap for my power brakes.

The only change I was going to do to them was use tall cast iron manifolds and a re jet. Is this a good plan? I have the shorty alum. manifolds now

If I do use them am I really cheating myself? It is going in a bus that probably won't see over 4500 rpms. I am also using stock heater boxes. My thought is why suck it in if I can't blow it out.....

But I'm not opposed to different carbs if the icts will cause any lean or overheating issues.
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[email protected] · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:52 am Post subject:

for your build the ICTs will be fine.
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SRP1 · Samba Member Joined: January 06, 2007 Posts: 4340

And now......we've come full circle... Laughing

Lets get to building that little beast.

yamaducci · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:25 am Post subject:

What is the condition of the 90.5's and are you matching the camlobe with it's original lifter? or did they get all mixed up when the case was split?
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skills@eurocarsplus · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:36 am Post subject:

yamaducci · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:42 am Post subject:

skills@eurocarsplus · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:59 am Post subject:

Hone and ring for sure. I am going to install the pin clips in line with the rod like I do on my 2 stroke stuff. More than likely the open end will face the piston....unless I have been doing it wrong Embarassed

Sealers....curil t for case and ultra grey for cylinders
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W1K1 · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 12:25 pm Post subject:


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