Spark Plugs not firing, coil getting extremely hot.

[Greg!]

[drscope]

[Greg!]

I would also start with replacing the points and condensor.

[61SNRF]

Not sure what you mean or what you may have done, so just start with the basics.

If the coil is getting too hot with the key on while cranking, it's probably because it is grounded all the time and current is constantly flowing through it. That is not supposed to happen during normal operation/running.

It's the points job to ground the coil on and off much like a switch at regular intervals (with some dwell time) when the engine/distributor rotates. If it's grounded all the time, a coil will get very hot, and run your battery down pretty quick too.

If you can see that the points are opening and closing and they were working before, then you may have wired something wrong. As in the diagram above, the black wire to coil terminal #15 should have 12v power only when the key is on or while cranking. The green "negative" wire from the coil terminal #1 does not go to ground, it goes to the points only. It should not touch the distributor body or any other ground.

The condenser is not shown in this simplified drawing, but it's main function is to suppress the arcing of the points. It's lead wire is connected to the points/coil "negative" terminal #1 in parallel only, and it does not connect to the distributor body or any other ground except at it's mounting base.

Hope this helps, and please post a picture of your coil/distributor/wiring if you have any other questions.
_________________
-Bruce

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

[tasb]

As above- Me thinks you are having an issue with your condenser. It may look fine but... The condenser wire is supposed to go to the negative side of your coil.
_________________
Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[Culito]

Sounds like you need a basic reference manual of some sort.

The negative side of the coil hooks to the condenser. The positive side to the ignition switch.

_________________
Copyright CJ Industries, Inc.
'64 standard w/2.0L type 4
'62 bug

[Twest451]

I have a 1963 beetle baja. The engine was running but had a severe popping issue. I notice a bad air leak in the carb so I took it off and sealed the gasket that was leaking. After doing this, the car wouldn't start. It would crank but it wouldn't start. At first I assumed it was the carb since the problem happened right after I messed with the carb. However after inspection, I realized the carb is sucking air and getting gas so it cant be the carb. I realized the spark plugs weren't firing so I began to diagnose the ignition system. I had a 6 volt coil in before hooked up to a 12 volt battery. I bought another 6 volt coil and installed it and it didn't work. Then I bought a 12 volt coil and installed it and it still wont start. I heard it may be my condenser and points so I checked and they dont appear to be fried or anything. I just cranked the engine with the distributor cap off and the coil became so hot I couldn't touch it for more than a second without being burned. I am wondering what the problem could possibly be. The spark plugs still aren't firing. The negative wire from the coil isnt hooked up to anything, however my condenser doesn't have a spot for it and the car started just fine before and the negative wire wasn't hooked up to anything. Please help