Brake Booster to Master Cylinder Shims

[busdaddy]

OK, so try adjusting with the brake cables slack, the stuff you bought doesn't look too bad, no need to upgrade anything unless it starts leaking. You might try sanding the insides of the drums with some 50-80 grit if they are really shiny like a mirror to help seat the shoes.
The brake cables may be OK as they are, when the flexible outer section near the back gets rusty or stretched 1/2 the effort exerted by the lever is udsed compressing that jacket instead of pulling the arm in the drum.

Another item to try if you aren't happy with braking force is disconnect the vacuum line to the booster (cap the maniflod) and see how it stops, it should take much more effort, if it doesn't there's something wrong with the assist system.

I assume you've thoroughly bled the system?
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[SGKent]

bleed the brakes again. It sounds like you still have a little air in the lines. Right after we finished our 1977 including new brakes we were going down a street about 40 mph and the light in front of us went from green to red with no yellow and a fellow peeled out in front of us. I suspect he had one of the devices like police and firetrucks to trip the lights and the codes. Anyway I slammed on the brakes and the bus stopped in about 40 feet with all four locked up at one point. It was well balanced because all four locked and unlocked about the same time as to pedal pressure. I stopped about 25 feet short of the light. If yours don't work that well then something is wrong and it may be air in the lines.

[Davidcu]

OK, I did everything everyone said. Then I drove down the street going 20 mph and stomped on the brakes and they locked up and I stopped in about a bus length. Pretty good. I did find something weird though when I was under the bus. I had earlier replaced the check valve from the hose on the servo to the engine. The valve was in the engine compartment. I found another valve under the bus around the gas filter area that was a different shape than the one I replaced in the engine compartment but still on the same hose going to the brake servo. It said ATE and the word motor was on the side with an arrow pointing to the motor. Is this another check valve in the same line??????? I will see if i can find a photo of one like it. Sort of a round thing as you look at it like you were looking at a tobacco pipe with two ends one for in and one for out. Sorry, only way I can explain it.

[busdaddy]

Good to hear, that check valve you describe is the one VW put there (if you have a 72-74), where the bonus one in the engine compartment came from is something only your PO can answer. Maybe one was attached to a replacement engine?
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[Desertbusman]

When doing bus repairs it's always good to double check everything
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[busdaddy]

[Davidcu]

Thanks Buss Daddy. <Mine is a 76 but maybe the replacement hose came from a 72-74. Should I take one out and leave the new one or does it make any difference. If I remember right when I re-did all the fuel lines and injection there were 2 fuel filters on the bus. A clear glass one and the original white one underneath. I took out the glass one. By the way, how did you know I had a Parole Officer (PO)??????????Just kiding R R R.

[busdaddy]

Po means previous owner, we all deal with thier little gifts nearly every day, sometime leading to other meanings for PO

Seems like yours liked to double up on things, you really only need one check valve but another wouldn't hurt, unless the added connectios start leaking. Good thing you ditched the glass filter, they look great in magazine ads but tend to leak and start fires in real life.

A German car differs from a US one in that nearly every part does more than one job and deleting or misadjusting it has a trickle down effect on the rest of the system. Sometimes you don't find out about that until something else acts up but if you try your best to get every thing you touch dialed in the best you can things usually play along, just don't go thinking some little part is insignificant as you usually end up missing it when it's gone. It's hard to outsmart an office tower full of meticulous German engineers.
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[Davidcu]

OK, here is a new one. I work like a dog to make the bus stop and now it won't go. LOL Isn't that the way it always works. Here is what is happening. The idle seems to be lower than usual but the bus runs fine and cruises. On the way home from the Auto Show the Bus starts dying when you push on the brake and come to a stop at the red lights. I turn the ignition and it starts right back up and cruises on. It is now doing it at all the stop lights but sometimes doesn't do it if I press softly on the brakes. I got home and read Bentleys. One thing to check was the EGR as I noticed that the idle screw to turn up the idle didn't have any effect when I turned it. Once I pumped the EGR rod going from the throttle housing to the EGR the idle went up and now doesn't seem to be dying at stop lights. Any comments on this. Has anyone else had the same problem. Did I fix things or am I just kidding myself and the real problem is lurking out there just to come back when my wife is somewhere driving the Bus? I have also heard to spray a little electronic cleaner on the AFM pointer arm to make it run better. (Sorry I don't know the right words for the AFM pointer)

[busdaddy]

Don't go messing with the AFM yet.

The EGR shouldn't leak and should only open near full throttle IIRC. The other thing to check is remove and cap the line leading to the brake booster, I know it's just been rebuilt but that's often when they fail.
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[Tcash]

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