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joseph928
Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2011
Posts: 2114
Location: flagstaff az.
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 Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:36 am Post subject: syncros in Flagstaff |
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 Nice to see another Syncro tin top restoration project, I've got one also. I'm 90% done. Just time and lots of $$$$$$ , welcome to the club, will look forward to your progress. 
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1987 syncro westy tin top sun roof , GW2.3, rear locker, decoupler, Gary Lee tire rack & winch mount, lift, south african grill, big brakes , rhein alloy ,15 BFG AT, Fiamma 10 foot awning ,140 watt rear 85 watt front solar , mppt, truckfridge, automatic fire extinguishing system, tencent oil cooler, And a RMW SS exhaust! - 1971 bug convertible 1776 engine- 2010 Subaru turbo - 1993 Toyota 4x4 truck - 1999 Harley 95 CI, big bore, Andrews cams . Also 80-84- vans. Stock 65 sunroof bug. |
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corter
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 148
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2012 3:41 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, finally starting work and rust repair is first. Stripped most of the interior to get to the back of the seam rust, and then cut into the rocker after seeing it was rusted through. This is the first time I've ever done any of this so it's a bit scary (but fun). Here's what I found:
Looks pretty bad, I think a plug came out (I found it in the rocker cavity) and that caused the whole thing to rust out over time. That might explained why the rest of the body is in really good condition except for this spot. I'm going to try and save the lower rocker but that may have to go as well, which means a new one's gotta be welded in. I've got an upper rocker panel coming in from Bus Depot this week, so that project is on hold until the replacement tin is in so I know what more to cut/grind/etc. I don't know how to weld, but I think panel adhesive is best for this job to prevent future rust so that's the direction I'm going with it- anything structural I'll get welded in.
Big brakes came in the mail, and my new wheels to fit them. Got a really good deal on some CLK rims that needed cosmetic work so I spent a day or two grinding down curb rash and polishing them back up. Not perfect, but I'm not building a show car- they look nice, and will work great. Crazy how light these things are!
Tomorrow I'm going to take the front bumper off and really check out the rust I can see under there- might need to order a new panel for that as well. More rust overall than I was lead to believe ("All surface, no holes at all!" previous owner said) but this is a project- I've never done this stuff before, and it's a great learning experience. Very happy to just be working on my own Syncro! |
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corter
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 148
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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The last week has been crazy! Moved my business into it's first real workshop and now work continues on the van. Boring stuff mostly- still waiting for back ordered replacement panels, but seam rust has been taken care of from the inside with por-15 and under-front-bumper rust has been ground down/smoothed. Started sanding/priming, got the roof done and the nose started.
Exciting news, I got bumped up to the current Bostig group. In an Overhaulin'-like situation the push is now on to get the van done for a trip out to Chicago in mid-October. Because of this, I'm going to head over to Bostig to have the conversion installed as well as have the gas tank dropped/ resealed etc. Living in the city, and having only a tiny amount of mechanical car knowledge, I just think it's better to let pros do it and maybe help a bit. Don't think the landlord would be happy with me doing an engine swap in front of my apartment!
So here's the list, in order, of what needs to be done in about 1 month (this is probably more for me than the thread, sorry!)
-finish body work, including replacement rear quarter and driver's rocker panel, and get the van in primer
-engine installed and gastank resealed
-install suspension and bushings
-install big front brakes
-pick out tires, mount, install
-convert power windows and locks to manual
-strip crappy home-tint job
-Paint!
After this, it will be good to go mechanically- I can do interior stuff in November, my priority is getting a reliable driver on the road so I can sell the civic and get rid of the extra insurance. Here's to getting it all done! |
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BillM
Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2004
Posts: 1381
Location: Stonington,CT
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| Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 6:39 pm Post subject: |
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Corter I told you the Bostig guys were great. It's not a
difficult install but nothing beats dropping it off. Then
a short time later pick it up done. With Bostig you know
it will be done right. Keep this thread updated with photos
as you make progress. I enjoy watching major projects.
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Bill M
87 Westy |
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corter
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 148
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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went out and pulled the rest of the interior today to prep the floor for bed liner before the engine install, and found out that the gas leak was much older than just the past couple weeks and had done a pretty large amount of damage. Floor rusted out from the gas behind the heater, peeled right up when I got to it. I'm obviously not going to explore how deep it is with a cutting wheel or grinder seeing as how there's a strong smell of gas, but no clue what I'm going to do next.
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bosruten
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Joined: February 11, 2011
Posts: 551
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 1:09 pm Post subject: |
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I assume you'll be removing the tank? after that you should be able to cut out that area and replace it. keep the garden hose close by....in case.
Good luck!
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'87 Syncro Weekender |
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corter
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 148
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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| yea, well now I suppose it's "if" the van's not too rusty I was planning on having the gas tank dropped and resealed when the new motor goes in, have some images into Jim over at Bostig to see what he thinks because they're doing the install. It's not super clean all around, there's some rust- but nothing as bad as this. I wasn't lead to believe there was any rust this bad or any holes anywhere when I bought it, live and learn I guess |
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bosruten
Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2011
Posts: 551
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:02 pm Post subject: |
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It would be wise to drop the tank and replace the rollover valves and fuel lines while the engine is out. I doubt the PO was hiding anything and was probably unaware of the corrosion you found...maybe? Hang in there...we like seeing Syncros breathing. 
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'87 Syncro Weekender |
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BillM
Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2004
Posts: 1381
Location: Stonington,CT
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:13 pm Post subject: |
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| corter wrote: |
| yea, well now I suppose it's "if" the van's not too rusty I was planning on having the gas tank dropped and resealed when the new motor goes in, have some images into Jim over at Bostig to see what he thinks because they're doing the install. It's not super clean all around, there's some rust- but nothing as bad as this. I wasn't lead to believe there was any rust this bad or any holes anywhere when I bought it, live and learn I guess |
If you want to feel good about your van go see Bradys syncro.
Especially the pass rear control arm mount. That's what I call
rust..seriously go look and you will see what I mean!
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Bill M
87 Westy |
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corter
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 148
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:22 pm Post subject: |
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| bosruten wrote: |
| It would be wise to drop the tank and replace the rollover valves and fuel lines while the engine is out. I doubt the PO was hiding anything and was probably unaware of the corrosion you found...maybe? Hang in there...we like seeing Syncros breathing. |
I'm going to try and get it all patched and fixed, believe me- just pretty hard with no welding skills and working in a driveway of a rental in the city.
The thing that bothers me is that the PO told me that all of the rust was surface rust, but even besides this spot(which you're right, wouldn't have known unless you dug a bit like I'm doing) I stuck a screwdriver right through the rocker panel the day after it came off the truck after seeing pictures and saying hmmm, that looks a bit deep. Then came the step rust out, then the nose panel which had visible holes behind the bumper- I fixed those, stronger than they were from the factory. However this is just a bit frustrating, for a dude that rebuilt the motor and replaced a whole bunch of big mechanical stuff on the van I can't help but think the PO knew what was going on.
Either way, positive thoughts. I can patch the floor stuff no problem with panel adhesive and sheet metal, I can get under there and really seal the underside with por-15, and hopefully I can find someone to help me get this larger piece fixed and get the new motor in. Just going to take a whole lot more work to get it to the awesome beach van I want it to be. |
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BoneMachine
Samba Member
Joined: January 15, 2012
Posts: 202
Location: MA, Boston Strong
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Corter,
Congrats on the syncro! Very cool that you're getting the Bostig conversion, you're going to love it. Plus, Jim, Brady and Nate are fantastic people to work with. They're just putting the finishing touches on upgrading my van to their current specs. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow.
If you're ever out around Groton get in touch. You can take my Bostig for a spin.
Good luck with the van.
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'85 Wolfsburg Edition Westfalia Weekender, Zetec #36, w/ Peloquin TBD
'83.5 Westfalia, full camper (we'll never forget you) |
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corter
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 148
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:23 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks man, will do once it's on the road.
Question for those that know- re: repairing the sheet metal.
I'm figuring out my options. Now, the goal for this van is a nice safe beach driver, something I can get a bunch of miles out of. Not a beauty queen, I got a not-so-perfect van so I wouldn't be scarred to drive it. both of the options I think I have involve pulling the motor and resealing the tank.
the first would be to have a body shop repair the panel while the motor and tank are out, then have the new motor installed. Probably super expensive, and I can honestly say I don't think I want to put thousands into one spot of body repair on this specific shell.
The second would be to go in and cut out all the rust/por-15 once the motor's out, install the new motor, and repair it from the inside once the motor's in. I can't really tell if this is a structural part or not- I've been working with panel adhesive to fix other parts, and would be able to shape and adhesive in a new panel myself if this would be safe. Or have a friend weld in a panel if it needs to be welded. I understand how threads about panel adhesive usually go, just looking for options here.
Keep in mind- this shell is not super clean. It's going to be driven a lot. I don't need pretty (especially since it'll be covered by the seat) I need functional and safe.
Edit- from doing some reading, I'm going to assume the mounting points for the tank are rusted beyond repair as I can see the bracket badly rusted through that giant hole. This means a new bracket will have to be fab'd up and welded into new sheet metal once all the rust has been cut out. I'm gonna assume panel adhesive is a no go |
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Greystar
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2007
Posts: 48
Location: CT
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| Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 6:26 am Post subject: |
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Hey Eric nice to watch another Syncro project. Tough luck about the rust. I too have a stock Syncro and wanted to take it on the beach at the cape but my upgraded 15's aren't big enough (205 65). So I called the oversand permit office yesterday and they said a 215 65 16 would work. Just another option for you, let us know what tire you decide on. Good luck!
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'87 syncro gl |
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bosruten
Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2011
Posts: 551
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| Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:07 am Post subject: |
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| corter wrote: |
Thanks man, will do once it's on the road.
Question for those that know- re: repairing the sheet metal.
I'm figuring out my options. Now, the goal for this van is a nice safe beach driver, something I can get a bunch of miles out of. Not a beauty queen, I got a not-so-perfect van so I wouldn't be scarred to drive it. both of the options I think I have involve pulling the motor and resealing the tank.
the first would be to have a body shop repair the panel while the motor and tank are out, then have the new motor installed. Probably super expensive, and I can honestly say I don't think I want to put thousands into one spot of body repair on this specific shell.
The second would be to go in and cut out all the rust/por-15 once the motor's out, install the new motor, and repair it from the inside once the motor's in. I can't really tell if this is a structural part or not- I've been working with panel adhesive to fix other parts, and would be able to shape and adhesive in a new panel myself if this would be safe. Or have a friend weld in a panel if it needs to be welded. I understand how threads about panel adhesive usually go, just looking for options here.
Keep in mind- this shell is not super clean. It's going to be driven a lot. I don't need pretty (especially since it'll be covered by the seat) I need functional and safe.
Edit- from doing some reading, I'm going to assume the mounting points for the tank are rusted beyond repair as I can see the bracket badly rusted through that giant hole. This means a new bracket will have to be fab'd up and welded into new sheet metal once all the rust has been cut out. I'm gonna assume panel adhesive is a no go |
I'm a welder by trade(many moons ago)so I'm biased, but I think in your case...I would do the repair while the engine and tank are out. Maybe those Bostig fellows would put the conversion on hold for you to pop over(since you're so close)and do the repair before installing the tank and Zetec. Pop rivets would probably work instead of welds if no one wants to tackle that approach.
Good luck!
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'87 Syncro Weekender |
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corter
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 148
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:24 am Post subject: |
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| Greystar wrote: |
| Hey Eric nice to watch another Syncro project. Tough luck about the rust. I too have a stock Syncro and wanted to take it on the beach at the cape but my upgraded 15's aren't big enough (205 65). So I called the oversand permit office yesterday and they said a 215 65 16 would work. Just another option for you, let us know what tire you decide on. Good luck! |
Hey thanks dude, hopefully someday we'll meet there! I'm going 235/70 on some 16" clk wheels and GoWesty Springs, because the largest tire size needed for any beach is 235 on a 16" rim for Race Point and they'll fit the big brake kit I've got. Frustrating because all the new parts are just sitting in our extra bedroom!
And thanks for the advice Bosruten, after research I agree 100%. While it's not the easiest route, I'm going to have someone who knows what they're doing weld in new sheet metal, because I'm pretty positive a new tank bracket will have to be fabricated- the stock mounts are no doubt rusted beyond repair from what I can see. Just have to find someone that can do the work as this is way over my head, that's the hard part |
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corter
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 148
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 11:27 am Post subject: |
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| Welp, after calling all of the well known VW mechanic shops in MA that I could find, I can't find anyone that will fix the floor. I've got an email with pictures in to one last place, this is turning out to be way more of an issue than I had thought. Anyone have any suggestions for a shop/home mechanic that could handle this repair? |
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snowsyncro
Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2009
Posts: 1557
Location: East Preston, Nova Scotia, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 11:48 am Post subject: |
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| corter wrote: |
Thanks man, will do once it's on the road.
Question for those that know- re: repairing the sheet metal.
I'm figuring out my options. Now, the goal for this van is a nice safe beach driver, something I can get a bunch of miles out of. Not a beauty queen, I got a not-so-perfect van so I wouldn't be scarred to drive it. both of the options I think I have involve pulling the motor and resealing the tank.
the first would be to have a body shop repair the panel while the motor and tank are out, then have the new motor installed. Probably super expensive, and I can honestly say I don't think I want to put thousands into one spot of body repair on this specific shell.
The second would be to go in and cut out all the rust/por-15 once the motor's out, install the new motor, and repair it from the inside once the motor's in. I can't really tell if this is a structural part or not- I've been working with panel adhesive to fix other parts, and would be able to shape and adhesive in a new panel myself if this would be safe. Or have a friend weld in a panel if it needs to be welded. I understand how threads about panel adhesive usually go, just looking for options here.
Keep in mind- this shell is not super clean. It's going to be driven a lot. I don't need pretty (especially since it'll be covered by the seat) I need functional and safe.
Edit- from doing some reading, I'm going to assume the mounting points for the tank are rusted beyond repair as I can see the bracket badly rusted through that giant hole. This means a new bracket will have to be fab'd up and welded into new sheet metal once all the rust has been cut out. I'm gonna assume panel adhesive is a no go |
The area you have pulled up is not really structural. It does form part of the box structure that gives a little rigidity to the rear portion of the body, but there is a frame crossmember directly below. So, I think you would be OK to use sheet metal and panel adhesive/rivets to patch it up, at least temporarily until you skills/toolset/workspace improve to the point where you could weld it up.
That gas tank support bracket you see through the hole is what caused the panel to rust out. It has holes that allow dirt and salt to deposit in there, where it all stays wet and rusts out the sheet metal and the bracket.
Take a look at this thread -- you can see the bracket, and a good suggestion by crazyvwvanman on how to make a substitute.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=524802&highlight=
RonC |
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BillM
Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2004
Posts: 1381
Location: Stonington,CT
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| Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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I know someone in North Stonington CT. If you got issues getting
down there. I might be able to help. I have a truck and
car trailer. Check out the distance and if it's do able
pmail for his info..
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Bill M
87 Westy |
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corter
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 148
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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| Thanks for all the help guys! I did see that thread- seems that's what I'll have to do, just have to find someone to do it. Bill- sent you a PM! |
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corter
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 148
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:51 am Post subject: |
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Work continues on the things I can do while trying to find someone to fix the things I can't
Got the new rocker panel in- got a picture of the test fit, made some adjustments and glued it in, it's now drying. Tomorrow I'll get it all smoothed out and in primer.
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