Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Rear heater elimination. Plug or Connect
Page: Previous  1, 2
Forum Index -> Vanagon Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  

Rear heater elimination options for coolant hoses
A) Remove heater and just block all the lines.
18%
 18%  [ 7 ]
B) Connect coolant hoses together under the bench seat with a straight barb fitting
15%
 15%  [ 6 ]
C) Remove T fittings under the Van and connect hoses together with straight barb fittings.
65%
 65%  [ 25 ]
Total Votes : 38

Author Message
Bruce Wayne
Samba Member


Joined: May 15, 2007
Posts: 1210

Bruce Wayne is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

remove it. first camping trip we took,it made a mess. yanked it out in the campground. never have passengers in the back,plus it doesn't get that cold in western Oregon anyway. front heater keeps it plenty warm for me.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
Ahwahnee
Samba Member


Joined: June 05, 2010
Posts: 9775
Location: Mt Lemmon, AZ
Ahwahnee is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

goffoz wrote:
...Crack one of those valves open, and take a look inside
...you'll see they flow ,even when "closed"
Approx a 3mm. hole...I just figger thar may be a reason for that Confused


Possibly to make it easier to successfully bleed the cooling system?

In any case, coolant bleeding / trapped air should be considered in whatever alternative you design.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
presslab
Samba Member


Joined: September 29, 2008
Posts: 1730
Location: Sonoma County
presslab is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

goffoz wrote:
Crack one of those valves open, and take a look inside
...you'll see they flow ,even when "closed"
Approx a 3mm. hole...I just figger thar may be a reason for that Confused


Are you sure this flow restrictor bypasses the valve? Bentley section 19.10 also says '83-85 "remove flow restrictor from inlet fitting of heater valve". With my Subaru conversion I needed to open the rear valve to provide this bypass function. Perhaps different years had a different valve setup.

jrobewesty wrote:
Yep, take a good look at a system before you assume anything on it.

Little things add up and can make a difference.


Yes, I agree. Looking at the coolant flow diagram on 19.10, only the right head goes to the heater. If the bypass were required for correct operation of the engine, why would it only be on one head? So then, can you explain how this restrictor will make a difference?

What about the vans/trucks that don't even come with a rear heater from the factory?

insyncro wrote:
X2


Please, this response is pointless enough, but three posts? At least consolidate all your "X2"s into one post. Sometimes I wish the post counts were not shown like on some other forums; I think it would eliminate some frivolous posts.
_________________
1986 Vanagon Westfalia EJ25
1988 Subaru GL-10 EJ20G --- 2000 Honda XR650L
2010 Titus El Guapo --- 2011 On-One 456 Ti
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
insyncro
Banned


Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
insyncro is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Feel free to block my posts.
X and a number is like an Exclamation .
Many use it here.
If you don't like my post count use a / and divide by whatever number you are comfortable with.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Windig89
Samba Member


Joined: September 22, 2011
Posts: 184
Location: Montreal
Windig89 is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Post whore!

Oops, I am one too now.


Thanks guys, lets keep this to the best method of removal, not a debate if one should remove it or not, or how many posts inSync has lol

Just pretend the decision is made to remove the heater, now which is the best method to execute.

Cheers,
_________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia - 2.1L waterboxer
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
presslab
Samba Member


Joined: September 29, 2008
Posts: 1730
Location: Sonoma County
presslab is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
Feel free to block my posts.
X and a number is like an Exclamation .
Many use it here.
If you don't like my post count use a / and divide by whatever number you are comfortable with.


All I ask is that if you have an "X2" type of post, is that you please share some additional valuable information from your experience, so as to increase the signal to noise ratio; also if you have consecutive posts please consolidate them into one post.
_________________
1986 Vanagon Westfalia EJ25
1988 Subaru GL-10 EJ20G --- 2000 Honda XR650L
2010 Titus El Guapo --- 2011 On-One 456 Ti
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
insyncro
Banned


Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
insyncro is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Search the original Vanagon.com email list for valuable info that Dennis Haines posted in the 90s as to why you should remove the plastic Ts and not leave dead end coolant lines in your system when getting rid of the rear heater.
A hint as too why is that they fail about as ofter as the the gasoline bulkhead fitting in the engine compartment.
Get rid of 20+ year old plastic parts that have seen countless heat cycles Exclamation

RMW has nice upgraded Ts, reducers and straight connectors.

There is a direct correlation between having issues bleeding your system and having dead end coolant lines.
As it states clearly in Bentley, for the bleeding process all heater valves need to be OPEN.

Many use the rear heater loop in there conversion bypass.
If you have a conversion, a reversed coolant distributor and or don't actually know how your cooling system is plumbed...before removing anything, I would get up to speed on the layout.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
SyncroGhia
Samba Member


Joined: August 21, 2009
Posts: 2458
Location: Highnam, UK
SyncroGhia is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If anyone has removed their rear heater and has a spare trim from the rectangular hole free... I'm looking for one.. or two!

Part no:255070235

Black rectangular trim that surrounds the hole that the heater comes through like this...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website MSN Messenger Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Vanagon All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: Previous  1, 2
Page 2 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.