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dan macmillan
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2003
Posts: 3110
Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
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 Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:58 pm Post subject: Oil leak #2 cyl area |
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A friend just dropped of his bug. It has a 1500 sp. major oil leak coming out from the head to cyl area of #2 cyl. Runs fine and barely burns any oil. It is not the pushrod tubes or the valve cover. Drivers side is dry. Any ideas before I tear this thing down?
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66 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, 79 Bradley GT2
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EVfun
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012
Posts: 5475
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 10:03 pm Post subject: |
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Weird. Push rod tubes and valve covers are the main things that come to mind and you have ruled them out. You can't leak oil from between the cylinder and head, unlike most water cooled cars. A crack in the back of the head?
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
Last edited by EVfun on Mon Sep 17, 2012 4:58 am; edited 1 time in total |
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geoffwestmore
Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2008
Posts: 95
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 11:04 pm Post subject: |
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| leak from bottom of generator stand or oil filler/breather tube ? |
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Glenn73
Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2011
Posts: 1190
Location: West Jordan UT
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jlex
Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2009
Posts: 2902
Location: NW Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 4:32 am Post subject: |
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You CAN leak oil from between the cylinder and engine case.... It's why there's been so much written about how to seal them up (permatex aviation gasket sealer vs silicone vs gaskets etc.) May be a crack, but may also just be the gasket/seal has let loose. I don't know that it would cause a heavy oil leak, though; probably more like messy seepage...
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jlex.
'70 std. "Elsie"
'88 Carrera |
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EVfun
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012
Posts: 5475
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 5:00 am Post subject: |
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You caught my typo. You can't leak oil from between the cylinder and the head, which is where Dan mentioned the lead was located. Old bug engines can leak oil from almost everywhere else.
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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Cadaver
Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2012
Posts: 2338
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 5:26 am Post subject: |
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#2 head to jug, he said.
cracked head.
or just bad valve cover gasket leaking and wind blowing it funny.
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in Samba classifieds....1968 T1. |
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HRVW
Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2011
Posts: 2531
Location: Rosarito, Mexico
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:58 am Post subject: |
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 A licensed Tech asking for others to help diagnose a problem.
Hmmmmmmmm....I would be embarrassed to do that. |
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dan macmillan
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2003
Posts: 3110
Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 10:44 am Post subject: |
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| HRVW wrote: |
A licensed Tech asking for others to help diagnose a problem.
Hmmmmmmmm....I would be embarrassed to do that. |
Life is a constant learning experience, no one knows everything. I have never run across this situation before. head to cyl cannot leak oil, v/c cannot leak in this location, cooler would leak on 3-4 side, pushrod tubes cannot leak above cyl, gen stand leak would show up outside the cooling tin, cyl to block is a possibility. Anyone, licensed or not should not feel embarrased to ask a question to learn. Smart people make use of all information sources available. Are you embarrased when you have to open the manual. I hope not.
_________________
Licensed Automotive Service Technician
Licensed Truck and Coach Technician
Licensed Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
CFC/HCFC/HFC A/C handling and installation license
Alignment specialist
66 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, 79 Bradley GT2
Current projects:
Built for others:69 Manx Clone |
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19super73
Hardcore Stock Nazi
Joined: October 18, 2007
Posts: 4351
Location: Cité Soleil
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 11:32 am Post subject: |
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| dan macmillan wrote: |
| HRVW wrote: |
A licensed Tech asking for others to help diagnose a problem.
Hmmmmmmmm....I would be embarrassed to do that. |
Life is a constant learning experience, no one knows everything. I have never run across this situation before. head to cyl cannot leak oil, v/c cannot leak in this location, cooler would leak on 3-4 side, pushrod tubes cannot leak above cyl, gen stand leak would show up outside the cooling tin, cyl to block is a possibility. Anyone, licensed or not should not feel embarrased to ask a question to learn. Smart people make use of all information sources available. Are you embarrased when you have to open the manual. I hope not. |
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jlex
Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2009
Posts: 2902
Location: NW Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:53 pm Post subject: |
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Amen. Let us know what you find out... weird situation.
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jlex.
'70 std. "Elsie"
'88 Carrera |
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HRVW
Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2011
Posts: 2531
Location: Rosarito, Mexico
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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  Relax OP...just pulling your leg. I'm an old Cannuck from Hamilton and on my last visit to Welland (family) only saw one SB and it never moved the whole time I drove by.
What your looking for is not in any book and can only be learned from tearing into the engine or by first visual inspection.
I have rebuilt over 1000 engines so have seen your problem many times.
Clean dry spk plug ellminates rings.
Compression and leakdown will answer a bit.
NO loud popping (exhaust noise) means cyl/head contact okay.
Check for oil at exhaust gskt at #2.
Pull tin and spray Brakleen up into cyl/case area for any visible oil from the studs top and bottom on #2. Jack car up on stands and lay underneath while engine is running (wear goggles). Have air hose to blow any debris etc.
Oil may seep from cyl/case area from a previous gskt installation/repair etc.
I have in the past used 2-4 paper gskts as a fillin where/when needed...can be done with no harm.
Crankcase pressure from cyl firing going past rings will force oil out via rear seal, Case seam, front crank pully, Oil filler, Gen stand (baffle w/2 gskts needed) and any other worn gskts not sealing.
On a occasion found where the sheet metal would cut into the bottom corner of the head (#1 or #3) and oil collecting in that corner would drip on the heat exchanger and SMOKE.
Could go but won't bore you....too many things not in the books.
(VW Mechanic/engine builder/parts house owner of 28yrs) |
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dan macmillan
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2003
Posts: 3110
Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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| HRVW wrote: |
Relax OP...just pulling your leg. I'm an old Cannuck from Hamilton and on my last visit to Welland (family) only saw one SB and it never moved the whole time I drove by.
What your looking for is not in any book and can only be learned from tearing into the engine or by first visual inspection.
I have rebuilt over 1000 engines so have seen your problem many times.
Clean dry spk plug ellminates rings.
Compression and leakdown will answer a bit.
NO loud popping (exhaust noise) means cyl/head contact okay.
Check for oil at exhaust gskt at #2.
Pull tin and spray Brakleen up into cyl/case area for any visible oil from the studs top and bottom on #2. Jack car up on stands and lay underneath while engine is running (wear goggles). Have air hose to blow any debris etc.
Oil may seep from cyl/case area from a previous gskt installation/repair etc.
I have in the past used 2-4 paper gskts as a fillin where/when needed...can be done with no harm.
Crankcase pressure from cyl firing going past rings will force oil out via rear seal, Case seam, front crank pully, Oil filler, Gen stand (baffle w/2 gskts needed) and any other worn gskts not sealing.
On a occasion found where the sheet metal would cut into the bottom corner of the head (#1 or #3) and oil collecting in that corner would drip on the heat exchanger and SMOKE.
Could go but won't bore you....too many things not in the books.
(VW Mechanic/engine builder/parts house owner of 28yrs) |
I am relaxed, there are a lot of people on here that do not have a clue and just post crap. As I do not know you or your background I can only read your post as an attack on myself.
Thanks for the tips but it is not my first BBQ, I know how to diag and check for leaks. My first post said LEAK not seeping.
This car had been certified in southern Ontario and within a week the owner lost all brakes. Further inspection found
Leaking master cyl/leaking wheel cyls, leaking axle seals, flattened wheel bearings, contaminated brakes, drums oversize, rear drum splines about to be sheared, bent spindle, hogged out wheels to fit wheel adapters, gas tank not secure, major fuel leak, butchered wiring, 6v flywheel with 12v starter, bent single port intake to install wrong carb, generator installed wrong {over 3/4" out of alignment}, holes in floor, split axle boots.....
The list goes on. It will be a while before I get to the oil leak.
Due to all the repairs needed and the fact that the oil leak is uncommon I posted to see if anyone had an idea as to the cause. I will probably be putting in a rebuilt engine but will definitely update the cause of the leak.
_________________
Licensed Automotive Service Technician
Licensed Truck and Coach Technician
Licensed Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
CFC/HCFC/HFC A/C handling and installation license
Alignment specialist
66 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, 79 Bradley GT2
Current projects:
Built for others:69 Manx Clone |
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