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Real time ignition switch help needed...
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childofthewind
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 4:05 am    Post subject: Real time ignition switch help needed... Reply with quote

Yep.. think my ig switch is bad. Parking lights and high beam work (when pulled towards me) but no low beams or wipers. Good news is I have a spare but have only watched someone do this once. I remember there being a handy step by step guide on here but can't seem to easily find.. can someone share the link if it exists?

Thx.. (it's getting light finally so can drive w/o lights but need to fix later..)
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BoneMachine
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 4:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey!
Ben explains it here;
http://www.benplace.com/dash.htm

Are you still on the cape?
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BillM
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 5:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can reach down under where the switch is and pull the plug off.
Plug the new switch in and use a screw driver to operate for now
just to make sure that's your issue. You will have to remove
the plastic covers between the steering wheel and dash
but all that takes is a screw driver to get access. If it is
your problem you can at least drive until you get time/place
to repair it permanently.
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childofthewind
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, friends! Bone Machine- no longer on the Cape.. at a rest area in Ohio off I-90 Westbound about to do this. Wish me luck!
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jkidd152
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BillM wrote:
You can reach down under where the switch is and pull the plug off.
Plug the new switch in and use a screw driver to operate for now
just to make sure that's your issue. You will have to remove
the plastic covers between the steering wheel and dash
but all that takes is a screw driver to get access. If it is
your problem you can at least drive until you get time/place
to repair it permanently.



I've done this lots. Works like a charm! You have to keep the key in the ignition to keep the steering wheel from locking. And it is always a smile for me when I am ready to shut it off and I turn the key and nothing happens. "...oh yeah, where did I put that screwdriver..." Smile
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childofthewind
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet Jesus- I did it!! Had to find a Napa for a 24 mm socket but 15 min later I have lights and wipers and blower fan!!

What an amazing feeling. Once again.. couldn't have done it without you, Samba.

Billowing hearts!! Smile
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childofthewind
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grrrr....
So, two ignition switches in a few days? Wtf?!

More info: this morning the gas gauge doesn't work.. but did when I first started it.

What do you think? Is there a short somewhere?
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Load reduction relay and grounds should be checked.
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childofthewind
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably stupid question but can I just switch out that relay with another to see if that's it?
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The X relay has nothing to do with the headlights. Did your headlights go out again? How about the dash fan and wipers? How about when all 3 are turned on while the key is on?

X relay = load reduction relay (not for headlights)

Mark


vermontgirl wrote:
Probably stupid question but can I just switch out that relay with another to see if that's it?
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childofthewind
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No lights (except for parking lights and high beam when pulled back); no wipers or fan. I did notice that if I switched high beams on and off that the fan/wipers would sometimes start working but stop the moment I released the switch.

Maybe related but seems like aux battery is draining faster than usual. Oh and also a dash light has been flickering over bumps.. maybe just a loose bulb. Guess I better start looking for another ig switch for now (I'm in the middle of N. Dakota Sad)
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

with most relays you can just use a jumper (short heavy gauge wire with 2 male ends) to jump the 2 wires that teh relay switches.. it is afterall only a switch that is controlled remotely by a signal. this will tell if you have a bad relay, or bad input/signal trigger to the relay.

I have a heavy copper strip that was OEM on my 80's Audi to eliminate a relay but continue the circuit thru the fuseblock

*Doing this will allow the circuit to power as long as the jumper wire is in there, you'll have to remove it (watch for hot side contacts) each time you want it off.

vermontgirl wrote:
Probably stupid question but can I just switch out that relay with another to see if that's it?


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

from thispage on jumping a fuel pump relay to get one home.
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/jumping.htm

you can get a little more complicated with a test/jumper to include a fuse and a switch.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

all parts available a aan allnight truck stop Wink
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vanagonjr
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I had some funky light issues (no head lights, hi-beams when stalk is held back, blue indicator on) work on the headlight ground solved all. Might not for you, but worth doing.

On the star grounding location, above the fuse box towards the left side of the van, there are two brown headlight grounds that combine into one. Cut those back just a little bit (mine looked fine, but I could see corrosion only after cutting.) Crimp on a new spade connector for each, clean the star ground and re-attach.

http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/HTML/04/10/slideshow.html
Scroll through slide show and you will see the circular start grounds
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are some crappy replacement ignition switches out there. If you install one of the headlight relay kits it will take most of the load off the ignition switch and the switches will last longer. Most of the load that causes the burned out ignition switches is the headlight load and the added headlight relays remove that load. If you drive a lot with high beams on and/or you have upgraded the headlight bulbs to brighter ones you can burn out the ignition switches faster than you would otherwise.

The headlights use the same ground whether they are running from the normal switch or running while you hold up the high beam lever. If they work while holding up the high beam lever the problem can't be the headlight ground.


The wipers and dash fan have nothing in common with the headlights other than one contact inside the ignition switch. We call it an ignition switch but there are really 4 switches inside for 4 different functions.

1 contact for ignition on
1 contact for starter cranking
1 contact for X loads (powers headlights, and turns on X relay that powers other stuff)
1 contact for key inserted detection (not important in most vans)

Mark

vermontgirl wrote:
No lights (except for parking lights and high beam when pulled back); no wipers or fan. I did notice that if I switched high beams on and off that the fan/wipers would sometimes start working but stop the moment I released the switch.

Maybe related but seems like aux battery is draining faster than usual. Oh and also a dash light has been flickering over bumps.. maybe just a loose bulb. Guess I better start looking for another ig switch for now (I'm in the middle of N. Dakota Sad)
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, one contact in the switch powers both the X relay and the headlamp switch.
My comment check the load reduction relay should have included...for power with the ignition on.
No power = bad connection in the ignition switch.

Mark takes plenty of time to throughly answer wiring questions.
I am sorry for my quick post.

I bought a bunch of ignition switches from the dealer a few years ago and they are holding up well.
The $9-$13 ones found elsewhere...not so much.
They all ended up in the trash.
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childofthewind
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help, guys. When I get to Montana I'll track down a shop somewhere.

Additional info: John, you reminded me of an instance last week or so when I went to turn my lights on and nothing happened so I turn them off and back on and they worked.
Also, now my gas gauge isn't working at all and my temp is reading higher than usual. Is this the works of electrical gremlins? Could it be a short? The inaccurate gas/temp readings have been happening for a while. I've never had to replace ig switch though and now I've gone through two in three days.

Can I find a switch at an auto parts store just to get me to a VW shop? Also.. is it bad to be driving so much with a bad ig switch? Sorry for the basic questions.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grounds Exclamation
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childofthewind
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The circular cluster grounds??
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes and any local grounds that may have been added over the years
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childofthewind
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question: I did nothing with the grounds the other day when I put in my new switch and everything started working perfectly again. Can a bad ground short my switch?
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