The 1.8T

[danfromsyr]

my AEB 1.8T is quite quiet inside.
my forward wind & tire noise is far louder than the motor.

fwiw, I am using the stock 99 passat motor mounts that came with the motor.
and a stock vanagon trans mount. I do get some shifter rattle at times. but i've played hell dealing with shift bushings and such.. on one trip I used a pool noodle section and a bungee to pull some side tension on the longitudinal shift rod underneath. but have since R&Rd that one troublesome bushing.

alot plays into what muffler and where it exits/points from under the chassis
I run the $38 cheap truck muffler referenced in 1.8T swap threads. mounted to/with the engine not the chassis.
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[davevickery]

I considered adding a high output fan somewhere to push the turbo heat out of the engine compartment. It wasn't bad until I chipped the ECU. The engine lid got a lot hotter after that and I didn't think it was good for the electronics and wiring and hoses. There is no way in my mind that a rear engine vanagon gets more airflow than the front engine donor cars. I never added a fan though and eventually sold the van.

I also found the exhaust noisier than I liked. People seem to enjoy noise when they first get a conversion, and later they just want it quiet. I added a second muffler to mine and I used smaller diameter pipes after the cat. It did not seem to affect power, which there was plenty of, and it was quieter having 2 small mufflers instead of the larger open mufflers most people use. For comparison, it was noisier than an A4 but quieter than other 1.8T conversions. What you can make fit depends on a number of things. I redid it a couple times until I was satisfied. With the AEB I had enough space to move the cat closer to the turbo and fit a 12" resonator and and 18" muffler in back.

[danfromsyr]

mufflers are going to be a what you get is what you got sort of thing..

the AEB exiting towards the back does allow a cat on the side by the tire. then a larger/longer muffler (or combo i guess) across the rear

I'd wager my Walker truck muffler is quieter.. that is what I strived for..
being able to start up and drive thru a campground no louder than a camry..
my fuel injectors ticking are more audible over the muffler at idle..

I did have the muffler slide off the inlet pipe on my last roadtrip.. is quite loud w/o a muffler for sure... and the turbo whine is more defined.

as for heat and chipped... well yeah for sure it'll be alot hotter..
the turbo is mild cherry in color at ~6psi of boost.. if you are running it up to ~16psi of boost then it's going to be blazing..

regarding the airflow.. the van doesn't have a radiator 3inches away blowing really HOT air onto the motor.. in a van it's blowing on the metal pan by your accelerator foot.

fwiw I don't run my chipped ECU much.. and when I do I run it with a boost controller limiting to ~12psi.. I find that's plenty and I worry that with great power comes great responsibility and ability to break things.. like transaxles and such..
power is addictive but really ~150hp at 7~8psi is PLENTY for normal flat land driving. (and I wasn't hurting much in the CO Mtns last road trip)

remember more boost PSI equals MORE HEAT and a brighter infrared heat lamp glowing in the back.. anything that is in direct sight of the turbo suffers from the infrared light.
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[michaeltag]

I am running the awesome Stephan's AutoHaus 1.8T conversion. Mine is not "chipped," but has the upgraded mandrel-bent stainless steel exhaust. I believe that gives me, from what I am told and from confirming on/observing the ScanGauge, about 200 HP. I also have the recommended slightly taller, heavy duty Weddle fourth gear in my rebuilt transaxle. My clutch was replaced in March 2016 right after the transaxle rebuild, about 20,000 miles ago (not at the same time, but that's another story) and the engine conversion was done in January-February 2017, about 16.000 miles ago. Isn't this a bit soon for the clutch to be wearing out again? This week, my wife reported some symptoms very similar to the week before the clutch went out in 2016, like having to stop and turn off the engine before being able to put into first, and trouble shifting. However, I just drove it and I can't see anything wrong with it. She assures me that she was depressing the clutch pedal completely and we don't have anything that can get tangled under the pedal. I drive it more than she does. Could have been a fluke, but I'm putting out feelers just in case these symptoms get worse in the days ahead.
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'87 Vanagon GL Westfalia Syncro w/ rear locker
• 1.8T engine conversion from Stephan's AutoHaus
• Schwenk Springs, OME shocks, BFG All Terrains on South African 15-inch steel wheels
• GoWesty Plate Steel Bumpers w/ front skid plate & rear swing-away spare carrier
• Big Shot Shifter
• Transaxle rebuilt with taller heavy-duty 4th gear, GoWesty decoupler and oiler plates by Ken at Porter's Precision
* TruckFridge
• Propex Heater
• Vintage Air in-dash A/C

[NorCalbuggy]

michaeltag:
You might take a look at your clutch slave cylinder - it may be starting to leak

Or the clutch master cylinder could be starting to fail
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"Steam seems to have killed all gratitude in the hearts of sailors"

1987 Westfalia Vanagon - "Clifford"

[Zeitgeist 13]

Yeah, those are classic clutch slave symptoms
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Vnyd Dog]

Thanks to Pcforno and Izzydog for help via PM on doing the pedal mod. I recently received the pedal and a pigtail. Spent $50 on eBay so pretty low risk. But I guess I’m lacking creativity and the top bolt has stumped me as I can’t figure out what to do for a spacer and for a “hat” on the top spot to make the bolt level. Hacking off the bottom bits was easy. Any additional tips?

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'87 Westy 1.8T Conversion, Orignal Owner, European Delivery @ Westfalia factory in Weidenbrueck.
The Story:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=713391&highlight=life

[Pcforno]

Vinyl - I cut all that stuff on the bottom off flush as well. I then just moved the pedal up and down the firewall and experimented with various angles of inclination until I was happy with my foot position and then used a m8 bolt through the hump flange sticking slightly out of the way of the pedal on the left hand side and bolted it to the firewall/floor. It’s been snug as a bug ever since...

[izzydog]

Hey v-dog. That's a sexy pedal...LOL.

If you need a "cap" washer for the top bolt, I would suggest trying to find a plastic foot from an old chair and sanding it down to the correct angle you need. Furniture feet are usually at least 1-2" tall and often already have a hole through the center so all you need to do is sand it down to the correct angle.

If you look at the picture attached, you can see what I used for my front bolt (#2). I believe it was an old chair foot that I found. You could also drill out a short piece of wood dowel. You just need something thick enough to sand down an angle so your top bolt sits flat on it.

[Vnyd Dog]

Thanks again guys for the pics and tutorial. If I understand PCforno, looks like it may be possible to avoid that large hole at izzy used with spacers etc. Anyway, my real concern is my fear of cutting the SAH pedal pigtail and splicing/tapping the new one in. That kind of thing always disturbs me. I'll work on more plastic trimming this weekend and play with mounting positions etc. It is one SEXY pedal. Should easily be good for another 10whp...
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'87 Westy 1.8T Conversion, Orignal Owner, European Delivery @ Westfalia factory in Weidenbrueck.
The Story:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=713391&highlight=life

[Pcforno]

I wanted to report on my new turbo setup. I’ve got a Syncro westy and started with the stock 1.8t tune. Was reasonable but didn’t quite cut it on higher altitude passes. I did a stage 1 APR chip which was pretty good, but it still struggled. I recently finished installing a K04 with GIAC tune. I think I’m finally happy with power levels. The k03 stage 1 gave a nice spike to 21 psi but then would run out of breath and could only hold around 16-18 on hills. The sharp torque spike of the smaller k03 was also a little annoying as you had to pay attention to gas pedal pressure to not be too jerky. The k04 in contrast is quite smooth without any jerky spikes. It’ll hit 23psi than hold 20-21 as long as you ask it to. What this translates to is smoother power and quite a bit more. Probably around 20 more ft lb of torque compared with a stage 1 tune, which seems to be just enough to keep me from constantly shifting back between 3rd and 4th on uphills. I can now build power and RPMs in 4th on a hill which was quite difficult with the k03. The other benefit, which I haven’t been able to test yet will be in keeping the engine bay cooler. The k03 with a stage 1 chip, pushing a Syncro westy up passes at altitude is certainly operating at the limits of its volumetric efficiency and the engine temps can get quite high. I’m hoping this summer the k04 and it’s greater volumetric efficiency will help some with engine temps. Anyhow, thought I’d report as I haven’t seen anyone mention the k04 upgrade on the samba, but I’m super stoked with the power and smoothness so far.
Cheers

[danfromsyr]

pcforno, It's certain your tire OD is impacting your comfort and speed at higher elevations. but man.. 21psi.. that's alot of boost alot of torque and ALOT of HEAT being generated..

drop it down into 3rd.. and I barely have to pull any PSI on my AEB through NM, CO mtn roads. spare the transaxle some greif as well.

also I'd be interested in where your intercooler is mounted
and
what you are seeing as INTAKE AIR TEMP numbers. this will have a very DIRECT impact on performance as the ECU pulls back timing.

lastly is your PSI numbers from an actual boost pressure gauge or from a 'calculated' boost on an torque or scan gauge style device? they're not always providing an accurate 'calculated' PSI figure.

[Pcforno]

Thanks dan-
Yes I could easily pull passes in 3rd with the stock 1.8t without any chip. But i get tired of pushing 3rd gear speeds. So of course a chip wasn’t necessary and neither was a k04, but what fun would that be?
My intake temps are fine, I’ve got a water over air intercooler with radiator mounted up front on the skid plate and rarely get high IATs. I just like to be able to go 70 mph up hills - I like to feel like I’ve got the power and I’m nut running the engine at 4000 rpm.
My boost numbers are actual vacuuum line pressure. Remember that stock is 12, stage 1 k03 is 21 and then falls to 16 or so, and the k04 can keep going st 20. This is all pretty standard stuff in the 1.8t community (not Vanagon-specific)

[danfromsyr]

stock for a sedan which won't go into that much boost for that long of a time.
I'm just thinking of the heat/glow from the turbo and the (side) loads on your transaxle bearings. it's a pricey & precious transmission.

4ooo rpms for a mtn pass won't bother the 1.8T one bit.


I also run a water/air front mounted cooler system.. so glad to hear you are also.. many just have a air/air stuffed in the corner with a fan..

also glad to hear you run a true vac/boost guage.. like I mentioned the 'calculated' ones aren't really all that true.

of course there are differences between I40 and the million dollar in how fast and what gear you can use/cruise at.. so each is quite variable.

lovely country you have out there, I hope to return to ABQ for another balloon fiesta some year.
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[Pcforno]

Cheers dan!
Love to have you out next time you’re here. Yes it’s a lot of heat for the turbo, yes it’s a lot of load for the transaxle. Having said that I cool and filter 4th gear and obsessively monitor the filter. Still hardly produces any debris in the filter. Interestingly, I can monitor real time torque from the crank with a scan gauge I have and you’d be surprised how little more (10-20 ft lbs) a 4th gear pull at 3000 doing 70 vs a 3rd gear pull doing 4000 at 55 or 60 mph there is. Also the boost dosent really stay long at 20. You just need it long enough to get the RPMs Up to the efficiency zone of 3200 or so in 4th and then it’s usually maintaining around 5psi to keep going 70. Prior to the k04 getting the RPMS up enough to not lug the engine and get up into the boost zone was the issue so you’d have to stay in 3rd
Anyhow I guess you can say I’m doing some transaxle and turbo testing - I’ll let you know how it turns out!

[Vnyd Dog]

Curious for recommendations on what oil change kit you guys like??
I've used FCP Euro and ECS Tuning for convenience of ordering and having all the bits in one click, though it seems I could piece together a kit off AMZN and save a few pennies. Anyways, just looking for ideas...
Oh and haven't needed to change air filter yet...for those with the SAH kit, what's your preferred method of getting it out?
Cheers and thanks.
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'87 Westy 1.8T Conversion, Orignal Owner, European Delivery @ Westfalia factory in Weidenbrueck.
The Story:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=713391&highlight=life

[Pcforno]

Make sure the oil is at least 502 VW spec approved.
Use a large can filter.

Don’t go longer than 5000 miles between changes.

Personally I use penzoil platinum ultra euro 0-40 and Fram ultra synthetic filter.

[Zeitgeist 13]

You can't go wrong with Hengst, Knecht or Mahle filters. I'm lazy, so I run Chevron Delo 15W40 semi-synthetic in all my rigs. It meets MB specs, and that's good enough for the ladies who tolerate my nonsense.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[tgraham]

[revolution337]

I like FCP, they have lifetime warranties on all their products, including oil change kits.

You simply have to cover the cost of shipping the used oil, filter, and drain plug back to them, and then they will refund you the cost of the oil service kit. I've done this already. Is it a bit of a hassle, maybe? But for the ~$15 it cost for me to ship it back, it was worth it for a ~$50 oil service kit. Just food for though.