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ach60 
Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2001
Posts: 4139
Location: Santa Maria
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 Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 1:14 am Post subject: Collecting Parts for a 1904 build for a late model Beetle |
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Questions I have for a 1904 motor I'm collecting parts for.
What do you guys think about using Dual Weber 40 IDFs?
For me I'd feel more comfortable buying these carbs and using Aircooled.net's set up service.
What about once I get this thing put together, I've got new carbs, and a new SVDA distributor,
How do I get this thing started, and break in the cam, but not blow this thing up.
I feel like I understand the cam break in part (run it at 2500 rpm for 20 minutes),
but does that mean I just have to hope for the best with the initial carb tuning, and static timing on the distributor?
Here are the parts I've collected:
Engle 110 cam, and lifters
5.325" short rods (H beams) balanced
Crank Gear & Spacer Set
Stock size Santana Pulley
Bus Pressure Plate
AA 90.5 p/c's balanced
ACN's SVDA Distributor
Full Flow Oil Filter Kit
AH case, drilled, tapped, for full flow, Align bored, and bored for 90.5's coming back from Bugformance so then I can order bearings.
1.5 qt. deep sump
100% Stock VW doghouse tin set.
Planning to buy:
74mm DPR crank
DPR lightened flywheel
Then get the rotating mass dynamically balanced
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Good Luck
Al |
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vwracerdave
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Joined: November 11, 2004
Posts: 15307
Location: Deep in the 405
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| Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 4:46 am Post subject: |
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If you are using Engle cam and lifters I suggest you follow the printed break in instructions that come with the Engle cam.
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jfats808
Samba Member
Joined: December 10, 2007
Posts: 5022
Location: oahu hawaii
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| Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 5:25 am Post subject: |
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Only thing I saw that was above and beyond were the H beams. If you have them already , no worries use em. Dual 40 idfs are perfect, but you dont list what heads you have or plan to get. Setting up carbs are easy if you just read up on the process. It pays later to learn when you do have problems on the road you can fix/adjust your own issues. Carbs do fall out of wack and require adjusting af mixture or idles every now and then. Not logical to send them in or have a shop retune them all the time. Just saying... Like Dave already said follow the cams instructions. Everything else has to be set up prior.
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[email protected]
Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2002
Posts: 12785
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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| Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:25 am Post subject: |
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the short H-beams are strong, balanced, and will "fix" any deck height increase from the 74 crank. They also require less clearancing than "stock" rods do. It all boils down to money.
If you have no money but have time, clearance the case yourself. If you have more money and no time, buy the H-beams. Both approaches work fine.
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