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Cranks but won't start
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 10:04 pm    Post subject: Cranks but won't start Reply with quote

I used to have an intermittent no crank problem with my Vanagon, and was never able to cure it, but now...

it cranks fine but will not start.

Here is what I've done:

- replaced cap, rotor, alt. belt & spark plug wires (2 years; 3,000 miles ago)

- replaced ignition switch with FLAPS version (white one; not black/white version that VC sells); checked connections to starter

- replaced neutral safety switch

- replaced Fuel filter and all Fuel hoses (little debris seen when opened up old fuel filter)
- all fuel injectors rebuilt & tested

- tested coil resistance - OK (1o = 0.8 ohm (spec = 0.5 to 0.8 ); 2o = 2.9 kohm (spec = 2.4 to 3.5 kohm))

- oxygen sensor replaced, O2

- cleaned throttle body & adjusted idle switch on bench

- replaced Temp 2 (II) sensor

After doing all the above, I still had the int. no crank problem. After the Vanagon sat for a few months, it now will not start at all.

What else should I do?
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Last edited by randywebb on Fri Sep 28, 2012 3:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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rubbachicken
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

check for a spark, check for fuel pressure, check grounds
can you hear the fuel pump, fuel filter ?

what voltage do you have at the coil when cranking the engine
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rubbachicken wrote:


what voltage do you have at the coil when cranking the engine



measuring from where to where?
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0to60in6min
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

did you try starter fluid?
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rubbachicken
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
rubbachicken wrote:


what voltage do you have at the coil when cranking the engine



measuring from where to where?




measure from the + side of the coil, to ground



0to60in6min wrote:
did you try starter fluid?


i would never try starter fluid, only on old warn out diesel engines
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IdahoDoug
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Starter fluid is actually an excellent diagnostic tool. If it fires up on the starter fluid, you just cut your work in half. Yes, you can see spark on the plugs other ways, but this confirms timing, that the engine is properly coordinated, etc. It's not harmful to an engine when used normally.

DougM
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so, where do you spray it -- on a FI motor like the Digifant system?
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Syncro which I use everyday ,died at the bank .It drove in fine and would not re Start . I checked the Fuel pump relay ,it was good . I then loosened the distributor clamp and noted the position and the turned the distributor clockwise and counter clockwise and listened for the fuel pump to vibrate the hoses , there was no noise . I went to the fuel pump and powered it up with "Powerprobe" and it lit up . I then noticed that the terminals for the pump were dirty and tarnished . I hit them with a scuff pad and put them back on .
The Truck started right up . I tightened the Distributor and away I went . A couple of side notes to this ,unplug the Idle air valve as it vibrates with the key on as well . I found that using this procedure is easier than the jump the relay as a way to test the fuel pump .
If the fuel pump is not buzzing ,the van will not start . Also check the ring on the back of the alternator as times it cracks .
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morymob
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree with start fluid as a tool, quick shot(1/2 sec),carried for yrs in my'odd stuff fits all kit'. On wbx the vac hose on press reg, if not cut to a min length, a shot goes into plenum directly, east to get to and can leave hose off to test and replace if a fuel prob is discovered. Do u hav a tac??, if it moves when cranking the hall/ecu this far is good, then u check for spark at plug(s).
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked for spark?
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy,

I had someone at the ignition key and sprayed into the rubber boot's air cleaner end after pulling the air cleaner away from it and holding a good gap with something to let the spray/air go in. Once they are cranking, THEN fire it in. If you fire the spray into a stopped engine, most of it just wets the walls of the intake. So, you want vapor getting sucked in. This minimizes the amount you need, and minimizes hosing things down with essentially a powerful cleaner.

DougM
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, here is the situation - I can physically only do certain tests - I am (now) temporarily partly disabled from a bicycle accident (a hit and run that occurred when I rode my bike to meet a tow truck driver to get the Vanagon towed when it failed to start), and do not have any friends to call on for auto repair help. So I will not be able to do the starting spray for inability to do it the way Doug explained.

I did turn the key to "on" and then walk around to the other side and get down and listen to the fuel pump - also felt it (with the hand that has pretty good sense of touch). I heard nothing; felt nothing.

BUT, I have never heard the fuel pump run from the driver's seat, even when listening for it (that's with key to 'on'; engine not stater; also with engine idling - never hear the pump).

So SHOULD I definitely be able to hear the pump when next to it?

I assume the DigiFunky EFI system is similar to most others - the pump always runs when the key is set to 'on' and extra fuel is simply bypassed by the pressure regulator and returned to the tank. i.e. there s no timer, etc. that will kill the pump if the engine is not turning over...

Correct?
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No u wont hear r feel pump that way. More later phon batt dying
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
I did turn the key to "on" and then walk around to the other side and get down and listen to the fuel pump - also felt it (with the hand that has pretty good sense of touch). I heard nothing; felt nothing.

So SHOULD I definitely be able to hear the pump when next to it?


Not that it's the problem with your van, but: The fuel pump is primed for approx. 3 seconds when you turn the key to "on". If, after 3 seconds or so, you have not turned the key to "start", the fuel pump relay shuts off power to the pump. So, by the time you walked around to the passenger side and knelt down, the pump was done priming so you would not have heard it anyway.

Don't know about the other vans out there, but on mine the pump priming is definitely heard just sitting in the driver's seat (with all accessories off, of course)... and I've got a slight hearing loss.

You should be able to jump the fuel pump relay to run the pump. Pull the relay out and jumper the socket terminals:
■Jump terminals 30 and 87. If the pump runs, the wiring to and from the pump is fine.
■Jump terminals 15 and 87 and turn the ignition key to "on" (not "start"). If the pump runs, the ignition wiring is good.
■Connect terminal 31 to ground and check for continuity. If there is continuity, the ground connections are good.
■If all of the above tests are passed, that leaves the ignition coil feed to check (consult your repair manual for instructions).
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Black wire to the coil is seeing about 11 V when the key is turned to On (the battery terminals measure 12.5 V). Is that too low?

I also was able to get both relays in the box above the coil removed. Externally, the terminals look nice and clean. Both are the gray "24" relays -- is there an easy way to test them?
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unplug all the black wires from the black wire side of the coil except the one from the key switch. Then measure again.

Mark



randywebb wrote:
The Black wire to the coil is seeing about 11 V when the key is turned to On (the battery terminals measure 12.5 V). Is that too low?

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randywebb
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is only 1 Black wire on the coil

- do you mean unplug the Black/Yellow wire?

- there are also some Green wires on the other primary terminal...
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some early 2.1 harnesses used a black/yellow to pass 12 volts from the junction on the black wire power on side of the coil to the FI harness for relay control. Unplug everything from that junction except the wire from the key switch.

EDIT:later harnesses have the same power on wire branching off from the coil for relay control, it is just solid black instead of black/yellow or black/white. Some very early 86 used a different wiring scheme for relay control entirely. You must look at the VIN# and verify the harness if an 86 vin prior to about 55,000.

Mark


randywebb wrote:
there is only 1 Black wire on the coil

- do you mean unplug the Black/Yellow wire?

- there are also some Green wires on the other primary terminal...
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the hall pick up could be an issue as well. If you chafed the wires when doing the cap and rotor, it would give crank and no start.
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

with the black/yellow wire disconnected - I measure 11.5 V at the coil terminal

with the black/yellow connected, 11.0 V

- both are with ign. switched to ON and are in between the relay clicking noise I posted about in another thread, which is coming from somewhere up higher than the relay fuse panel

This "cranks but will never start problem" happened after the van was parked for about 2 months - previous to that it has had an intermittent problem of the same nature (for years) but always seemed to eventually start. Over several years I did all the replacements & checks in the OP, trying over & over again to fix the issue. So, no, I don't think any wires were bumped/chafed except maybe by an ant crawling around or something...
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