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randywebb Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 3815 Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
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Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 10:04 pm Post subject: Cranks but won't start |
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I used to have an intermittent no crank problem with my Vanagon, and was never able to cure it, but now...
it cranks fine but will not start.
Here is what I've done:
- replaced cap, rotor, alt. belt & spark plug wires (2 years; 3,000 miles ago)
- replaced ignition switch with FLAPS version (white one; not black/white version that VC sells); checked connections to starter
- replaced neutral safety switch
- replaced Fuel filter and all Fuel hoses (little debris seen when opened up old fuel filter)
- all fuel injectors rebuilt & tested
- tested coil resistance - OK (1o = 0.8 ohm (spec = 0.5 to 0.8 ); 2o = 2.9 kohm (spec = 2.4 to 3.5 kohm))
- oxygen sensor replaced, O2
- cleaned throttle body & adjusted idle switch on bench
- replaced Temp 2 (II) sensor
After doing all the above, I still had the int. no crank problem. After the Vanagon sat for a few months, it now will not start at all.
What else should I do? _________________ 1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans.
Last edited by randywebb on Fri Sep 28, 2012 3:33 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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rubbachicken Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2004 Posts: 3058 Location: socal
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Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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check for a spark, check for fuel pressure, check grounds
can you hear the fuel pump, fuel filter ?
what voltage do you have at the coil when cranking the engine _________________ lucy our westy
lucy's BIG adventure
meet 'burni'
markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.
619 201 0310 or 617 935 4182 |
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randywebb Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 3815 Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
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Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 5:47 pm Post subject: |
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rubbachicken wrote: |
what voltage do you have at the coil when cranking the engine |
measuring from where to where? _________________ 1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans. |
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0to60in6min Samba Member
Joined: November 27, 2006 Posts: 3416 Location: OR & CA (Oregon/California)
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Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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did you try starter fluid? |
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rubbachicken Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2004 Posts: 3058 Location: socal
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Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 6:20 pm Post subject: |
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randywebb wrote: |
rubbachicken wrote: |
what voltage do you have at the coil when cranking the engine |
measuring from where to where? |
measure from the + side of the coil, to ground
0to60in6min wrote: |
did you try starter fluid? |
i would never try starter fluid, only on old warn out diesel engines _________________ lucy our westy
lucy's BIG adventure
meet 'burni'
markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.
619 201 0310 or 617 935 4182 |
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IdahoDoug Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2010 Posts: 10248 Location: N. Idaho
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Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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Starter fluid is actually an excellent diagnostic tool. If it fires up on the starter fluid, you just cut your work in half. Yes, you can see spark on the plugs other ways, but this confirms timing, that the engine is properly coordinated, etc. It's not harmful to an engine when used normally.
DougM _________________ 1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader |
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randywebb Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 3815 Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
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Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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so, where do you spray it -- on a FI motor like the Digifant system? _________________ 1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans. |
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16CVs Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2004 Posts: 4024 Location: Redwood City, California
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Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:35 pm Post subject: |
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My Syncro which I use everyday ,died at the bank .It drove in fine and would not re Start . I checked the Fuel pump relay ,it was good . I then loosened the distributor clamp and noted the position and the turned the distributor clockwise and counter clockwise and listened for the fuel pump to vibrate the hoses , there was no noise . I went to the fuel pump and powered it up with "Powerprobe" and it lit up . I then noticed that the terminals for the pump were dirty and tarnished . I hit them with a scuff pad and put them back on .
The Truck started right up . I tightened the Distributor and away I went . A couple of side notes to this ,unplug the Idle air valve as it vibrates with the key on as well . I found that using this procedure is easier than the jump the relay as a way to test the fuel pump .
If the fuel pump is not buzzing ,the van will not start . Also check the ring on the back of the alternator as times it cracks . _________________ 1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread. |
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morymob Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2007 Posts: 4683 Location: east-tn
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Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 4:35 am Post subject: |
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Agree with start fluid as a tool, quick shot(1/2 sec),carried for yrs in my'odd stuff fits all kit'. On wbx the vac hose on press reg, if not cut to a min length, a shot goes into plenum directly, east to get to and can leave hose off to test and replace if a fuel prob is discovered. Do u hav a tac??, if it moves when cranking the hall/ecu this far is good, then u check for spark at plug(s). |
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Jake de Villiers Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2007 Posts: 5911 Location: Tsawwassen, BC
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IdahoDoug Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2010 Posts: 10248 Location: N. Idaho
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Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 9:47 am Post subject: |
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Randy,
I had someone at the ignition key and sprayed into the rubber boot's air cleaner end after pulling the air cleaner away from it and holding a good gap with something to let the spray/air go in. Once they are cranking, THEN fire it in. If you fire the spray into a stopped engine, most of it just wets the walls of the intake. So, you want vapor getting sucked in. This minimizes the amount you need, and minimizes hosing things down with essentially a powerful cleaner.
DougM _________________ 1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader |
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randywebb Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 3815 Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
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Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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ok, here is the situation - I can physically only do certain tests - I am (now) temporarily partly disabled from a bicycle accident (a hit and run that occurred when I rode my bike to meet a tow truck driver to get the Vanagon towed when it failed to start), and do not have any friends to call on for auto repair help. So I will not be able to do the starting spray for inability to do it the way Doug explained.
I did turn the key to "on" and then walk around to the other side and get down and listen to the fuel pump - also felt it (with the hand that has pretty good sense of touch). I heard nothing; felt nothing.
BUT, I have never heard the fuel pump run from the driver's seat, even when listening for it (that's with key to 'on'; engine not stater; also with engine idling - never hear the pump).
So SHOULD I definitely be able to hear the pump when next to it?
I assume the DigiFunky EFI system is similar to most others - the pump always runs when the key is set to 'on' and extra fuel is simply bypassed by the pressure regulator and returned to the tank. i.e. there s no timer, etc. that will kill the pump if the engine is not turning over...
Correct? _________________ 1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans. |
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IdahoDoug Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2010 Posts: 10248 Location: N. Idaho
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Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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No u wont hear r feel pump that way. More later phon batt dying _________________ 1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader |
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kamzcab86 Samba Moderator
Joined: July 26, 2008 Posts: 7916 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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randywebb wrote: |
I did turn the key to "on" and then walk around to the other side and get down and listen to the fuel pump - also felt it (with the hand that has pretty good sense of touch). I heard nothing; felt nothing.
So SHOULD I definitely be able to hear the pump when next to it? |
Not that it's the problem with your van, but: The fuel pump is primed for approx. 3 seconds when you turn the key to "on". If, after 3 seconds or so, you have not turned the key to "start", the fuel pump relay shuts off power to the pump. So, by the time you walked around to the passenger side and knelt down, the pump was done priming so you would not have heard it anyway.
Don't know about the other vans out there, but on mine the pump priming is definitely heard just sitting in the driver's seat (with all accessories off, of course)... and I've got a slight hearing loss.
You should be able to jump the fuel pump relay to run the pump. Pull the relay out and jumper the socket terminals:
■Jump terminals 30 and 87. If the pump runs, the wiring to and from the pump is fine.
■Jump terminals 15 and 87 and turn the ignition key to "on" (not "start"). If the pump runs, the ignition wiring is good.
■Connect terminal 31 to ground and check for continuity. If there is continuity, the ground connections are good.
■If all of the above tests are passed, that leaves the ignition coil feed to check (consult your repair manual for instructions). _________________ ~Kamz
1986 Cabriolet: www.Cabby-Info.com
1990 Vanagon Westfalia: Old Blue's Blog
2016 Golf GTI S
"Real knowledge is to know the extent of one's ignorance." - 孔子 |
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randywebb Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 3815 Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 12:15 pm Post subject: |
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The Black wire to the coil is seeing about 11 V when the key is turned to On (the battery terminals measure 12.5 V). Is that too low?
I also was able to get both relays in the box above the coil removed. Externally, the terminals look nice and clean. Both are the gray "24" relays -- is there an easy way to test them? _________________ 1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans. |
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crazyvwvanman Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008 Posts: 9923 Location: Orbiting San Diego
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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Unplug all the black wires from the black wire side of the coil except the one from the key switch. Then measure again.
Mark
randywebb wrote: |
The Black wire to the coil is seeing about 11 V when the key is turned to On (the battery terminals measure 12.5 V). Is that too low?
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randywebb Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 3815 Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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there is only 1 Black wire on the coil
- do you mean unplug the Black/Yellow wire?
- there are also some Green wires on the other primary terminal... _________________ 1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans. |
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crazyvwvanman Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008 Posts: 9923 Location: Orbiting San Diego
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:28 pm Post subject: |
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Some early 2.1 harnesses used a black/yellow to pass 12 volts from the junction on the black wire power on side of the coil to the FI harness for relay control. Unplug everything from that junction except the wire from the key switch.
EDIT:later harnesses have the same power on wire branching off from the coil for relay control, it is just solid black instead of black/yellow or black/white. Some very early 86 used a different wiring scheme for relay control entirely. You must look at the VIN# and verify the harness if an 86 vin prior to about 55,000.
Mark
randywebb wrote: |
there is only 1 Black wire on the coil
- do you mean unplug the Black/Yellow wire?
- there are also some Green wires on the other primary terminal... |
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OrganicMechanic Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2009 Posts: 93 Location: St Louis MO
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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the hall pick up could be an issue as well. If you chafed the wires when doing the cap and rotor, it would give crank and no start. |
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randywebb Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 3815 Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
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Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 12:52 pm Post subject: |
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with the black/yellow wire disconnected - I measure 11.5 V at the coil terminal
with the black/yellow connected, 11.0 V
- both are with ign. switched to ON and are in between the relay clicking noise I posted about in another thread, which is coming from somewhere up higher than the relay fuse panel
This "cranks but will never start problem" happened after the van was parked for about 2 months - previous to that it has had an intermittent problem of the same nature (for years) but always seemed to eventually start. Over several years I did all the replacements & checks in the OP, trying over & over again to fix the issue. So, no, I don't think any wires were bumped/chafed except maybe by an ant crawling around or something... _________________ 1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans. |
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