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Headliner Flocking replacement on 78 Westy
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seen it in person...it looks better than even the pics suggest Very Happy dale does some seriously quality work yall!
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DaleNW
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Stuart! Appreciate it. Embarassed
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey there Dale,
Looks DYNAMITE! Wife got me a new canvas tent so I'm gonna go ahead with a full poptop overhaul while I'm at it. I have the sand/stratos hull liner sitting in my garage ready to go for this (great tip!). Gonna add some dome lighting to the poptop too while I'm at it so top bunk can have some reading light at night and cabin gets more light when top is down. I'll post pics when I'm done.
2 more questions:
What did you use to remove the flocking?
What type of paint did you use for the fiberglass top and how did you apply it?
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DaleNW
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Jjrady! It took a bit, but worth the time, for sure.
I used good ol' elbow grease and sand paper to remove the flocking and its glue. I actually redid the whole top - reinforcing corners with new fiberglass, reglassing the wooden support frame (the one you are going to staple the tent into), adding reinforcements where my racks mount, filling hairline cracks with marine filler, new stainless steel hardware, etc. So, it was a massive project.

so, answers:
1) Sand paper, finish sander, beer (lots).
2) Dupont Imron (before the new eco friendly version). I sprayed it on (turned my shop into a spray booth). Before applying the Imron, I used a medium to heavy body polyurethane primer to apply the texture to original. I used a foam roller to texturize it and developed a technique to leave no roller marks/lines. Took me 3 tries to get it down perfect. Each time that I wasn't happy, I sanded the whole top smooth again and started over - each time. Yes, I am "that guy". Embarassed

Lights - I installed a strip of natural white LEDs (not the blue white) in my top. I ran the electrical inside the side seam of the tent so that the wiring is invisible. the LED strip is mounted on the front cross member. For a switch, I purchased a RF remote control switch so that it too is invisible (it's hidden behind the trim). I can dim the lights or have them on bright. As you suggested, it adds great light in the top bunk and nice light below to augment the original kitchen light.
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Xevin Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaleNW wrote:
Thanks Jjrady! It took a bit, but worth the time, for sure.

Lights - I installed a strip of natural white LEDs (not the blue white) in my top. I ran the electrical inside the side seam of the tent so that the wiring is invisible. the LED strip is mounted on the front cross member. For a switch, I purchased a RF remote control switch so that it too is invisible (it's hidden behind the trim). I can dim the lights or have them on bright. As you suggested, it adds great light in the top bunk and nice light below to augment the original kitchen light.

And those lights are so sweet. DaleNW is a straight up pimp Wink The pictures do not do it justice. If you can pull off half of what DaleNW did, you will still be pleased. Good luck, have fun, and show us some pictures.
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Jjrady
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaleNW wrote:
Thanks Jjrady! It took a bit, but worth the time, for sure.
I used good ol' elbow grease and sand paper to remove the flocking and its glue. I actually redid the whole top - reinforcing corners with new fiberglass, reglassing the wooden support frame (the one you are going to staple the tent into), adding reinforcements where my racks mount, filling hairline cracks with marine filler, new stainless steel hardware, etc. So, it was a massive project.

so, answers:
1) Sand paper, finish sander, beer (lots).
2) Dupont Imron (before the new eco friendly version). I sprayed it on (turned my shop into a spray booth). Before applying the Imron, I used a medium to heavy body polyurethane primer to apply the texture to original. I used a foam roller to texturize it and developed a technique to leave no roller marks/lines. Took me 3 tries to get it down perfect. Each time that I wasn't happy, I sanded the whole top smooth again and started over - each time. Yes, I am "that guy". Embarassed

Lights - I installed a strip of natural white LEDs (not the blue white) in my top. I ran the electrical inside the side seam of the tent so that the wiring is invisible. the LED strip is mounted on the front cross member. For a switch, I purchased a RF remote control switch so that it too is invisible (it's hidden behind the trim). I can dim the lights or have them on bright. As you suggested, it adds great light in the top bunk and nice light below to augment the original kitchen light.


Ok that's a whole different level. My "can do" spirit faded a little reading your reply. I understand your perfectionist penchant but with my two young kids getting the lions share of my time, I need to execute this in as efficient manner as possible.
Was your glass wok preventative or were you doing necessary repairs?
My top is in pretty nice condition as is. Just some fading and dirt. No cracks, though I haven't climbed on to and really inspected every inch closely. I just planned to sand and repaint to freshen it up and get it ready to last the next 60 years I plan on keeping it. So I don't foresee much glassing happening. I DO really like your idea of reenforcing your roof rack mounts. How'd you do that? Any chance you can photo? Adding some surf racks will be part of this overhaul. Is it a bad idea just to bolt them to the side of the top?

Would also love to see a pic or two of where you ran wiring, the seam etc. I bought an RV LED pancake dome (warm)light from justcampers.com that has the switches alread on it. Hoping it will attach through headliner to formica well enough... But would love to see how you ran wires. Think I'm gonna add some directional spot/reading lights to those small strips of headliner on either side of the rear bench while I'm at it. You know what they say, the more light the brighter.

I have no ability to spray (no air, no gun) (nor have I ever sprayed anything) (DO have garage, though) (I'll stop using parentheses now). I was imagining pull the top, remove flocking, sand down whole thing (250 grit enough?), then brush/roll on primer and paint. Ive hear some people liked Interlux paint as well. Do you think I'm doomed if I don't spray it? If I were able to borrow tank and gun from someone, Is spraying difficult? Can the DuPont paint you used be brushed/rolled on?
I like your idea of stainless steal hardwear too, was that tough to source? Did you do rivets too?
I've been reading these forums for a while now but this is the first time I've engaged, thanks for you help it's much appreciated.
Michael
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Jjrady
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 12:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I finally finished my poptop refresh and I tackled this headliner project that DaleNW inspired. I followed all of Dales steps listed in this thread (including his choice of brand and color of hull liner, which I'm very happy with) with only a few minor variations. Primarily that I added a hardwired/switched dome light to the headliner so that there is some extra cabin light when the top is down/up for cooking/up and bed out for sleeping. The actual light is a classic RV pancake light with warm LED bulb modification. It has a 3 way, high/low/off switch. It's quite bright on high and provides perfect reading light on low. Also, Dales tip of running the wiring inside the tent seams is brilliant. I ran the wiring to the back of the tent and down the rear passenger side seam so there would be less overall bending and wear over time. I used some dabs of 5min Marine epoxy every few inches to hold the wires to the formica. The hull liner covers them easily and I can't even tell they are there.
Dale also gave me the heads up that his contact cement was releasing after several years in the sun so I went searching for the strongest construction adhesive I could find. I finally settled on a DAP product called Beats The Nail. It's made by the same company that makes contact cement. This has a pretty long drying/working time so make sure you get a nice fit with nice support all underneath the top (saw horses in the middle as well as sides or on the floor) or else the formica might start to cup and that ain't fun. Ask me how I know. Also I used EVERYTHING thing heavy in my garage to apply pressure to the formica as the glue was drying. Only time will tell now how good the hold is. Feel free to check back in for updates on it.
The Pancake light attached to the formica with a thin (5/8 maybe) piece of soft maple I had laying around glued to the back and positioned between the roof ribs. The light then screwed through the hull liner, formica and into the wood.
This was a slow project because I had little to no time to work on it but all in all it really isn't too bad. I'd say the most miserable part was sanding off the Flocking. Maybe try a liquid paint stripper. I used a belt sander with 80grit and it still took a while. And there are a LOT of little fun nooks that you can only get with your hands...fun. The rest was pretty straight forward and predictable from DaleNW's tutorial.
So thanks to DaleNW for the replies to all of my annoying PMs and for his great ideas. This is a really nice upgrade and I am so glad it's done.

Also, added some Heavy Duty lifts that JacK Bombay makes and sells through Bus Depot. They are essential in my opinion. The top opens almost on its own now when I unclasp the latch. And FYI the kit that BD sells is technically for a Vanagon. It comes with steel brackets that arent needed on Late Bays. I contacted Jack Bombay directly about it. He was wonderful to deal with and quick to respond. He gave me very simple instructions on how to install them on my 79 bus AND he said he'd offer me a $30 refund if I mailed him back my unused brackets. That brings the total cost of that essential upgrade to $50ish and WELL WORTH THE PRICE OF ADMISSION.


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Xevin Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice!
You guys and your fancy pop tops. Love it!
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaleNW wrote:
okay - following up on this thread. I decided to go with a Speaker box material since it was all synthetic, thin, stretchable, and came in a nice tan (my bus is Dakota Beige). But, the material would not really follow stretch quite enough to dip low between the support beams in the roof and not be too slack along the sides where the support beams taper to 0. So, I decided to go with a flat section in the middle. Then, I could also add in insulation for winter camping (it will also reduce condensation).
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I added a small piece under the long piece of insulation in the middle (peak of roof) to take up the rest of the space. it fit perfect and filled in all the gaps.


Great job! I am inspired to do the same. What are you showing in this picture? Is this insulation board? What type? How did you adhere it to the top?
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 12:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Headliner replacement on 78 Westy Reply with quote

Hi have a pretty big roll of the Perfect Fit hull liner in Sand Stratos color. It's the leftover from when I redid my top. Plenty left on the roll to do another top. Let me know if anyone is interested in it. I'd hate to see it go to waste
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mr matt
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 10:04 am    Post subject: Re: Headliner Flocking replacement on 78 Westy Reply with quote

Just came across this, amazing job,... it will go on my list of things to do.
Just got a 77 camper last Fall.

How is everything holding up now that it has be a few years out...

Thanks
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BugChit
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 4:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Headliner Flocking replacement on 78 Westy Reply with quote

I'm Impressed with the outcome of these Headliner Poptops..

But I didn't see or read what type glue was used to affix the materials to the roof.

What or how do we attache the insulation and formica to the PopTop Roof?
Also what was used to attach the Haul liner to the Formica?

Thanks for any help..
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Adriou
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2023 7:30 am    Post subject: Re: Headliner Flocking replacement on 78 Westy Reply with quote

This is AMAZING ! Brilliant job and exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!!!
Could you give us update on how it has been holding over the years?
Thanks!
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chuckpolzin
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2023 1:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Headliner Flocking replacement on 78 Westy Reply with quote

Looks great,

what was your process for the paint / restoration.

What surface prep / fillers / primers and top coat did you end up using.

Spray ? Roll on ?

would love to know
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Our79Westy
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2023 6:39 am    Post subject: Re: Headliner Flocking replacement on 78 Westy Reply with quote

Here's a link to my poptop refresh thread and I'm pretty sure I showed what I used to refresh my poptop. It's been almost a decade and we are still happy with our choices:)

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620475&highlight=

And here's a link to my page where I give regular updates on the longevity of my endeavors...and other stuff...
https://youtube.com/@SundryTalesOfConstance79WESTY

here at
https://youtu.be/i8u5o145Mgc. Is a video of spraying the poptop in a homemade paint booth under my porch.

Good luck, you can do it!..we can help Smile STOC.
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