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aerosurfer
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2012
Posts: 1602
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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 Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 4:30 am Post subject: |
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I was banging my head last year over my fridge and transformer. The fridge heat element worked when hooked up to 12v directly but I could not get any power out of the transformer. Fuses in the panel and transformer were new. Diodes were fine as well. I ended up replacing the fuse holder in the transformer after finding a small amount of corrosion on it and the power runs excellent now!
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Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness
77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!
72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone) |
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celestine
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2014
Posts: 6
Location: Quebec Canada
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| Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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| eche_bus wrote: |
celestine -I'm not entirely clear from your reply as to whether the output voltage from your original power supply was normal (13V or so) before you turned on your refrigerator. If it was, and your voltage then dropped to only 5V, you could have one of several problems:
1. There is a very poor connection or contact somewhere between the supply and the refrigerator causing a voltage drop when the large refrigerator current is drawn. With the refrigerator turned on, measure voltage right at the output of the power supply. If it is normal there, but low at the refrigerator, trace through the path and find the bad connection. The schematic in the repair manual is your guide.
2. The power supply is bad, likely a failed diode but this should show up as a lower than normal voltage at the output of the supply even when the refrigerator is turned off.
Hello Again Friend.......Thank you very much for your help again....
Look that my friend.......
Last night I go to check to find the trouble....and I see 2 Wires White is not connected on the board where the switch control to control the refregirator..
If it possible to me give you a picture......With the picture you are the right problem when you see what I means when I said the 2 Wires White not connected.........So I will go tonight take a picture and If it possible to me here give you to determine where the 2 Wire White go on the board Maybe This is the problem........
Thank you so much for your Help again..... Very appreciated...
Hope give you the picture tonight,,,,,,,Wednesday 12 ....
3. The refrigerator is drawing considerable excess current. I believe the normal resistance and current is shown in the repair manual. You can use your meter to measure this and compare to normal.
The repair manual also has a troubleshooting guide for the refrigerator.
FYI - there are differences between Canadian and US models. |
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celestine
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2014
Posts: 6
Location: Quebec Canada
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| Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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| celestine wrote: |
| eche_bus wrote: |
celestine -I'm not entirely clear from your reply as to whether the output voltage from your original power supply was normal (13V or so) before you turned on your refrigerator. If it was, and your voltage then dropped to only 5V, you could have one of several problems:
1. There is a very poor connection or contact somewhere between the supply and the refrigerator causing a voltage drop when the large refrigerator current is drawn. With the refrigerator turned on, measure voltage right at the output of the power supply. If it is normal there, but low at the refrigerator, trace through the path and find the bad connection. The schematic in the repair manual is your guide.
2. The power supply is bad, likely a failed diode but this should show up as a lower than normal voltage at the output of the supply even when the refrigerator is turned off.
Hello Again Friend.......Thank you very much for your help again....
Look that my friend.......
Last night I go to check to find the trouble....and I see 2 Wires White is not connected on the board where the switch control to control the refregirator..
If it possible to me give you a picture......With the picture you are the right problem when you see what I means when I said the 2 Wires White not connected.........So I will go tonight take a picture and If it possible to me here give you to determine where the 2 Wire White go on the board Maybe This is the problem........
Thank you so much for your Help again..... Very appreciated...
Hope give you the picture tonight,,,,,,,Wednesday 12 ....
Hello again.........I just want to tell you I check the power supply last night and the Transformer give just 10 volts ..when the frige is Off.......Normally it indicated 12.7 volts ,,,,,,So maybe the diode is bad.......But with my other power supply..........Is great ..So for my next Test,,,,I just want ..where the 2 wires White go on the board and maybe the Frige start..... I hope.....
Thank you again.............
3. The refrigerator is drawing considerable excess current. I believe the normal resistance and current is shown in the repair manual. You can use your meter to measure this and compare to normal.
The repair manual also has a troubleshooting guide for the refrigerator.
FYI - there are differences between Canadian and US models. |
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eche_bus
Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2007
Posts: 1318
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| Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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| I don't think we share the same native tongues, so it seems things may be getting lost in translation. I have pointed you to the wiring diagram as well as diagnostic information in the manual. There is a photo of the back of the control panel earlier in this thread which shows the panel wiring. Are you referring to the small black panel inside the refrigerator itself? Perhaps a photo of what you're asking about is best. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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Canadian buses have no control panel, the fridge controls are in the cabinet:
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
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eche_bus
Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2007
Posts: 1318
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| Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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| Thanks for the photo showing the difference, busdaddy. I won't be able to help further. |
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Red Fau Veh
Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2012
Posts: 3037
Location: Prescott Az.
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| Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
Canadian buses have no control panel, the fridge controls are in the cabinet:
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Why don't Canadian buses have the control panel? 
_________________
1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey
| Touch Nicks Thing wrote: |
Swivel Seat panels are for people with no friends  |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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| Red Fau Veh wrote: |
| Why don't Canadian buses have the control panel? |
Because we might bash it with our hockey sticks, whack it with a skate or get poutine on it and short it out during some heavy romance in the bed  We weren't allowed to play with fire either from 76-79 either, no stove in a deluxe Canadian Berlin, the CSA or whoever made up the standards for campers at that time were looking out for us, safety first! 
As for the fridge wiring it's similar but simplified, everything happens in that box under the storage cubby lid.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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celestine
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2014
Posts: 6
Location: Quebec Canada
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| Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 5:22 pm Post subject: Power Convector for my West Transporter 1977 |
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| eche_bus wrote: |
celestine -I'm not entirely clear from your reply as to whether the output voltage from your original power supply was normal (13V or so) before you turned on your refrigerator. If it was, and your voltage then dropped to only 5V, you could have one of several problems:
1. There is a very poor connection or contact somewhere between the supply and the refrigerator causing a voltage drop when the large refrigerator current is drawn. With the refrigerator turned on, measure voltage right at the output of the power supply. If it is normal there, but low at the refrigerator, trace through the path and find the bad connection. The schematic in the repair manual is your guide.
2. The power supply is bad, likely a failed diode but this should show up as a lower than normal voltage at the output of the supply even when the refrigerator is turned off.
3. The refrigerator is drawing considerable excess current. I believe the normal resistance and current is shown in the repair manual. You can use your meter to measure this and compare to normal.
The repair manual also has a troubleshooting guide for the refrigerator.
FYI - there are differences between Canadian and US models. |
Hello again friend.........
I opened my power supply and check the Voltage and on the end on the circuit..The power supply do just a 10 volts with nothing is connected,,When I plug the Fridge.....Just 5 Volts ouput,,,,,,,
So my question is...
What is the Best Power convecter for my Fridge.......I see 2 or 3 model on Ebay,,,,,,,,,,,Did you know what is the Best...Thank you so much again..
celestine,,,,,,,,, |
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celestine
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2014
Posts: 6
Location: Quebec Canada
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| Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 5:35 pm Post subject: Re: Westfalia Refrigerator |
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Hello friend......I check to find a pulley for my alternator 55 amp...T2 Bus 1977...........want to know if nobody here sell this parts...Thank you so much...
Vincent |
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JPSummers
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2012
Posts: 59
Location: NE OHIO
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| Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2021 1:35 am Post subject: Re: Westfalia Refrigerator |
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I might be a bit late here but.....I found the EXACT switches the Westfalia Delta Six control panel uses at our local RV Shop.
The Transformer should put out 12.5 volts minimum.
Consider using the control panel to power Relays outside of the control panel to eliminate any high amperage going through the panel itself.
I just finished restoring my old, worn, faded and burned panel.
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78 Westfalia Campmobile Deluxe
As long as I have my Bus, I have a home. |
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sblu
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2019
Posts: 95
Location: Austin, TX
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| Posted: Sat May 07, 2022 3:53 pm Post subject: Re: Westfalia Refrigerator |
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| JPSummers wrote: |
I might be a bit late here but.....I found the EXACT switches the Westfalia Delta Six control panel uses at our local RV Shop.
The Transformer should put out 12.5 volts minimum.
Consider using the control panel to power Relays outside of the control panel to eliminate any high amperage going through the panel itself.
I just finished restoring my old, worn, faded and burned panel.
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how did you restore that panel? my etchings are faded
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1978 Westfalia Champagne Edition Project |
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jmstu76
Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 1227
Location: Edmond Oklahoma
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| Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2023 3:32 pm Post subject: Re: Westfalia Refrigerator |
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So I have a ‘76 deluxe Westy. I had always read that it takes a lot of battery to run the fridge. The advice I read was to prechill it with shore power, switch to battery power while in transit and then go back to shore power if you have 110 where you are camping. I have never been able to get my fridge to chill on shore power. I have gone as far as removing the fridge and letting it sit for a weekend upside down booing to get some the ammonia to flow due to gravity. The heater coils hum and I feel some heat through the vent but nothing happens. I have never ran an aux battery because I had no need.
Years after determining my fridge doesn’t work, I hooked my battery charger up to positive and negative leads for the aux battery that lead to the fridge. Switched the control power to Batt and fridge on and vies what. It works and it’s cold.
Here’s my question. Are there two separate sets of heating elements? Or is my converter/inverter (whatever it’s called) bad? Yes I have pulled the cover and checked the glass fused at the back of it.
What do I do here??
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James
'76 Deluxe Sage Green Westy
2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020 |
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JPSummers
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2012
Posts: 59
Location: NE OHIO
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| Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2023 3:39 pm Post subject: Re: Westfalia Refrigerator |
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| jmstu76 wrote: |
Here’s my question. Are there two separate sets of heating elements? Or is my converter/inverter (whatever it’s called) bad? Yes I have pulled the cover and checked the glass fused at the back of it.
What do I do here?? |
There's one set of electrical heating elements. Check the voltage output of your 120v AC -> 12v DC Transformer. I found mine was putting out 12.5v which isn't enough to run accessories and keep the leisure battery charged.
Also check your Electrical Control Panel Outputs. The Panels, residing under the vent window, are subject to water intrusion and corrosion.
I'm getting a new Transformer/Charger with much higher output. 13.5v & 75 amp. Newer ones are regulated and have monitoring circuitry to also act as a Battery Maintainer.
_________________
78 Westfalia Campmobile Deluxe
As long as I have my Bus, I have a home. |
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jmstu76
Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 1227
Location: Edmond Oklahoma
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| Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2023 5:59 pm Post subject: Re: Westfalia Refrigerator |
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| JPSummers wrote: |
| jmstu76 wrote: |
Here’s my question. Are there two separate sets of heating elements? Or is my converter/inverter (whatever it’s called) bad? Yes I have pulled the cover and checked the glass fused at the back of it.
What do I do here?? |
There's one set of electrical heating elements. Check the voltage output of your 120v AC -> 12v DC Transformer. I found mine was putting out 12.5v which isn't enough to run accessories and keep the leisure battery charged.
Also check your Electrical Control Panel Outputs. The Panels, residing under the vent window, are subject to water intrusion and corrosion.
I'm getting a new Transformer/Charger with much higher output. 13.5v & 75 amp. Newer ones are regulated and have monitoring circuitry to also act as a Battery Maintainer. |
What transformer/charger are you going with?
_________________
James
'76 Deluxe Sage Green Westy
2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020 |
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JPSummers
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2012
Posts: 59
Location: NE OHIO
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| Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2023 7:49 pm Post subject: Re: Westfalia Refrigerator |
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| jmstu76 wrote: |
What transformer/charger are you going with? |
Not sure yet. Considering an IOTA Engineering 75 amp unit with a Smart Charger Controller. Both are on Amazon.
the set up we've got is heavy on current draw. TV, Computers, WiFi, Cooking Appliances, Etc.
_________________
78 Westfalia Campmobile Deluxe
As long as I have my Bus, I have a home. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2023 9:10 am Post subject: Re: Westfalia Refrigerator |
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Systems vary, some have dual elements, others have a single 12V one and power through the converter (transformer), but start by checking the fuse inside the transformer, some are blown, others have dirty tabs. Unplug everything first, there's live things in touching distance in there.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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jmstu76
Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 1227
Location: Edmond Oklahoma
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| Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2023 9:26 am Post subject: Re: Westfalia Refrigerator |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| Systems vary, some have dual elements, others have a single 12V one and power through the converter (transformer), but start by checking the fuse inside the transformer, some are blown, others have dirty tabs. Unplug everything first, there's live things in touching distance in there. |
Good information. I have dug down to the glass fuse before. I am thinking a new transformer may be the ticket to a better charger and a higher cleaner DC output.
_________________
James
'76 Deluxe Sage Green Westy
2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020 |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2023 9:56 am Post subject: Re: Westfalia Refrigerator |
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| jmstu76 wrote: |
| busdaddy wrote: |
| Systems vary, some have dual elements, others have a single 12V one and power through the converter (transformer), but start by checking the fuse inside the transformer, some are blown, others have dirty tabs. Unplug everything first, there's live things in touching distance in there. |
Good information. I have dug down to the glass fuse before. I am thinking a new transformer may be the ticket to a better charger and a higher cleaner DC output. |
Well yeah, something that managed battery charging and supplied cleaner power would be useful.
There should be one of those plastci terminal blocks where the wires join inside the fridge cabinet, some meter work there can determine if you are getting power, and/or if the heating element has resistance.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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