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"homemade" tools??...photo results FAQ
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grandpa pete
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 4:33 pm    Post subject: "homemade" tools??...photo results FAQ Reply with quote

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My VW mechanic friend is away on vacation and I want to help someone replace a rear main seal saturday.I don't have my own flywheel lock or the seal install tool that looks like a large flat washer with a nut through it .. Shocked ..The local Tampa "Buggy " store is out of stock and ordering them will take too long. Sad ..sssoooooo i figured one of you has figured out cleaver alternatives... Very Happy ...SUGGESTIONS ANYONE... Very Happy .........what have you used ??? Cool thks
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Last edited by grandpa pete on Fri Oct 19, 2012 2:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
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djspn
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you or friend have access to an Idiot's Guide.........Muir has ideas in the Engine Overhaul chapter, pgs 266 and 299 in my copy.
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Brionp
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 5:09 pm    Post subject: Flywheel Lock Reply with quote

I went to Google Images and googled VW Flywheel lock. I thought this one was pretty clever. Good Luck.
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Green70
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ground the rivets off of an old pressure plate and welded an old t- shaped piece of grarage door track onto it. I bolt it to the flywheel like normal and use it to leverage off the ground. It helps if you have a deep 36mm and a buddy to help hold the engine.

I think you can use a block of wood and a mallet with decent results
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete, I used a PVC sleeve to install the final drive seals in my '72. See if you can find one that is close in size to the main seal.

BTW, I finished cutting out those pillars for you. Wink
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No pics but I used to have one made out of a ~1.5" length of ~1.5" heavy wall waterpipe sawn in 1/2 lengthwise and welded to a length of 1/2" pipe for the bolt, the sawn off edges of the pipe 1/2 engaged the flywheel teeth.


That reminds me,....................who borrowed that?.........................Hmmmmmmmmmmmm............................
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louis-123
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my friend shown my to use an old metal bed frame to lock the flywheel..
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete- Get creative Laughing Not all of us use those yellow engine elevator things. Bet you don't even have a bunch of concrete blocks laying around. Wink

With your pressure plate removed so that you can get to the gland nut the bolt holes in the flywheel are accessable. So grab a couple bolts and a heavy long steel bar. turn the flywheel and bolts against the bar so it won't rotate. I'd recommend a long bar at least 4 ft long and preferable longer. I have a flywheel lock but that doesn't solve the problem since when you use your big wrench and 36mm socket the engine will flop all over the place. It won't just sit there while you apply 400 or more pounds of torque to break the gland nut loose. The long bar on the flywheel solves that.

For the seal driver go to Home Depot and grab a PVC pipe coupler or anything else that matches the dia. you need. You're a do-it-yourselfer-home-maintenance guy so you probably already have a suitable fitting in your stash pile.

I use sealant on the outside of the seal/inside of case opening. Also around the Oring area. Be sure and oil the seal I.D.
Most of us intentially crank the gland nut tighter than spec torque. Your socket, breaker arm, long pipe, tape measure, and knowing your current weight will get it exact.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for a flywheel lock use a wrench like shown but use spare grade 5 or grade 8 bolts. Don't sue the captured nut. Keep the wrench close to the case so the force doesn't bend the bolts or crack a flange. I'd send you a lock but it would not make it by Saturday.

For the seal for years I used a ballpeen hammer on the flat end tapping it just a little at a time and going round and round. I have been known to use a block of oak to spread the love taps from the hammer but don't hit it too hard or the spring inside the seal will pop out.
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using the wrench as shown does lock the flywheel to the case but doesn't do anything to secure the engine from turning cartwheels when you put the big wrench on the gland nut. So the wrench as shown really doesn't do anything. You want to lock the flywheel to the floor and not to the case. Wink

The flywheel lock is great for R & R'ing the pressure plate.
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There is no question in my mind from my experiences engine machining, building, racing, and with other engine builders that no one here can build a bus engine which is more reliable than I can.
Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad Rolling Eyes Laughing Razz Laughing Shame on you Laughing Laughing Rolling Eyes Laughing Laughing SICKO B.S. Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad Laughing Shocked Shocked Laughing Twisted Evil d'oh! Liar Liar Liar


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Last edited by Desertbusman on Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

foot long 4x4 or 4 x 6 under one head while I put one foot on the other side with a wrench like that or a flywheel lock always worked for me. Setting end play was always one of the last things I did to the long block.
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Godspeed to all who undertake a journey with a VW Bus.

*You can do it right the first time, or do it over, the choice is yours. It is a free country. As to brakes, steering, tires, axles etc. - you may only get one chance at doing those right.

* VW Buses and VW cars share many of the same systems but if you haven't owned a bus and maintained it for awhile, you really don't know how different it is.

Bus Engine Cooling Issues? https://kentcomputer.com/77VW/BusEngineCooling.pdf
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only do it to a long block also but I don't want to be trying to hold the engine from flopping around while I'm doing the big wrench. Maybe you're a lot heavier than I am. Laughing
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There is no question in my mind from my experiences engine machining, building, racing, and with other engine builders that no one here can build a bus engine which is more reliable than I can.
Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad Rolling Eyes Laughing Razz Laughing Shame on you Laughing Laughing Rolling Eyes Laughing Laughing SICKO B.S. Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad Laughing Shocked Shocked Laughing Twisted Evil d'oh! Liar Liar Liar


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tristessa
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
Using the wrench as shown does lock the flywheel to the case but doesn't do anything to secure the engine from turning cartwheels when you put the big wrench on the gland nut. So the wrench as shown really doesn't do anything.

That picture from BrokeVW is a Rabbit engine, not as much torque as a T1 gland nut The wrench trick would probably work on a T4 or WBX engine, but I'd be concerned about bending the bolt/stud -- the bolt in Broke's picture is a 12mm threaded into iron, the flat-4 "only" uses 10mm and through/into aluminum or magnesium.
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't do it that way either on a T'1.
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There is no question in my mind from my experiences engine machining, building, racing, and with other engine builders that no one here can build a bus engine which is more reliable than I can.
Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad Rolling Eyes Laughing Razz Laughing Shame on you Laughing Laughing Rolling Eyes Laughing Laughing SICKO B.S. Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad Laughing Shocked Shocked Laughing Twisted Evil d'oh! Liar Liar Liar


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grandpa pete
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdady; Great idea !!! I can weld that up tomorrow

DBM;Thanks , I'm off to the plumbing store tomorrow

Baby snakes; will get peices at Bullie Brigade. Maby we can have a small Bay Window protest meeting off in a corner if I can get Mr. Unpopular and some of the others to bring Bays to Bullie ( It's about time they moved into the twentieth century )
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Green70
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the engine flops once when I was flying solo. I negotiated the long lock under the rear of my truck's receiver hitch and started cranking. The engine flopped up, into the bottom of my truck and 'POP', it was loose and I was tired. it is possible to do without the helper bar, but it makes it soooo much easier
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regalasr
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I saw some clever ideas to lock the flywheel on U Tube. Bet there are some ideas for removing the rear main seal as well.
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a 4 foot length of 1-1/2" angle iron, with 2 holes drilled at one end to bolt up to the flywheel (widest spacing possible). The angle iron rotates with the flywheel until the free end contacts the floor. No tendency for the engine itself to rotate when tightening / loosening the gland nut.

I painted the angle iron bright blue as a reminder that it's a tool, not fabrication stock.
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's pretty much similar to mine. Except yours is blue. Of the various methods it's gotta' be about the most functional and handy.
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SGKent wrote:
There is no question in my mind from my experiences engine machining, building, racing, and with other engine builders that no one here can build a bus engine which is more reliable than I can.
Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad Rolling Eyes Laughing Razz Laughing Shame on you Laughing Laughing Rolling Eyes Laughing Laughing SICKO B.S. Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad Laughing Shocked Shocked Laughing Twisted Evil d'oh! Liar Liar Liar


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grandpa pete
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 2:31 pm    Post subject: Flywheel lock Main seal driver Reply with quote

Two peices of pipe and 1 hour..1/2 inch nipple and 1 1/2 inch nipple
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Not pretty but it works...remember to grind off galvanising before welding
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Plumbing fitting to tap in seal..1 1/2 to 3 inch adapter
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Thanks to all who contributed Cool
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