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Getting the 1986 "Westy" back into shape!
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campism
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:

Before....with stick
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After....no stick!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Keep the stick. My van came with a nice broom handle with rubber crutch tips, no longer needed after it got new hatch struts. I scouted out a local junkyard and found two Vanagons, both with shot struts, so I took my old stick with me on my next trip to hold up the hatches while I removed the parts I wanted.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I doubt that VWoNA really cares about my upholstery being the 3rd owner!

It is an interesting thought about someone trying to get help from VW many years ago when the interiors first started shredding apart.

Your thoughts about the upholstery repairs being a necessity rather than eye candy is well stated. This thought process Helps me embrace the looks before function concept!

I will need to do some repair work on the Right Rear wheel well area before using the unit. It is rusted right through the inner splash panel. Driving in wet weather will throw water up into the body of the van above the rear wheel well! At least a quick and dirty sheet metal, caulk and screws patch until I can fix it properly during the winter of 2013/14.

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Thanks for the advice!

Dave
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Last edited by djkeev on Thu Nov 23, 2017 10:04 am; edited 1 time in total
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Repairing / repainting the Pop Top......

As an easier to do and handle first piece I removed the front luggage box.
It came off easy, 4 rusty screws and 4 10mm nuts. Took all of maybe 10 minutes.

Under the box it wasn't too bad. A little debris and a LOT of wasp nest! I think that The photos show 27 years of debris.
Considering how easy it is to remove the luggage box, I'm thinking it would be easy enough to make it a yearly maintenance item. 1/2 hour to remove, clean, wax and reinstall?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The worst discovery was some rust along the inner rain gutter, not bad......but still it's rust! Also without the seal to the body the fiberglass rubbed the paint off in spots which is now rusty!
(Right side rain gutter rust and luggage carrier rub rust.)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I figure I'll sand and wire brush off the rust, apply some rust treatment and then simply brush on some color. I've a can of Single Stage already mixed, it's all up in the rain gutter where no one will ever see that it's not perfect!
Better to have an "ugly" rust repair that it then to ignore it and Rust continue unabated!
See the pictures of the underside of the luggage carrier? The edges where the seal goes are all rusty from the seal retainer and from rubbing on the roof without the rubber seal.

I guess the lesson to be learned here is if you are missing the seal to the body.....go get one and install it! The absence of a seal WILL cause damage!
(Photo of right side of pop top, notice the rust where it has rubbed for years without a seal)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


There are two types of foam applied to the inside of the top, I presume for rubbing and rattling/squeaking prevention.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The Small black squares at each rear corner of the top and two larger white pads towards the rear. The white ones near the rear appear to have done nothing, no contact marks, the small black ones have obvious contact points visible. You can see the two small "clean" spots in the dirt on the roof.

Dave
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Last edited by djkeev on Fri Mar 22, 2013 4:21 pm; edited 3 times in total
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Screens.......

The photo below is looking into the sliding door glass. There is a plastic Frame that snaps over the sliding window that I assume one day had a screen in it.

What you see now is the brown residue of an adhesive?
The "hair" you see is a fiberglass strand from what was once a screen.

Can anyone help identify how this was originally?
Was it simply screen glued to the plastic?

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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:
Was it simply screen glued to the plastic?

Yep. fixed mine with dark colored aluminum screen material - hot glued
to the original plastic frame. Five years now & solid as new.

Careful removing the frame from the window. The friction tabs tend to break
and replacement frames are about $40 (complete w/screens are $70).
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok!

Painting the POP TOP part "A".......

The luggage rack.

I removed the rusty FOOT MAN LOOPS which wasn't hard, several simply came off when I nudged them!

The rest I drilled out the top of the pop rivet and knocked the loop off. I then pushed each headless rivet out the back side.

Left behind were horrible rust stains!

My wife has a rust remover agent for clothing........hmmmmmm............. Clothing.....fiberglass.... Eh! What's the difference?! I tried it and it worked.

I also used a stiff miniature wire brush and a green 3M scotch brite pad.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The rust is gone!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now I scrubbed the entire top with Simple Green and the 3M pad.
Rinsed well, several times with HOT water.

It now sits in the garage with heat on drying off and warming up. (Yes I closed the door)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I do hope the new WESTFALIA decals are the same size as the originals for I've got an unweathered shadow left behind, clearly seen in the right light.
You can also feel them, they stand proud of the old surface.

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Dave
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sanded the top well with 180 grit after it dried, blew off the dust, tack ragged I and then used a de-waxed/de-greaser before painting.

First coat of Interlux Brightside is on.

I took this photo because with the eye you can see letters for the WESTFALIA sticker, with the camera.........not so much!

Weird stuff this Brightside. I'm brushing it on, it covers poorly and leaves streaky brush marks behind. I found that I tend to get a lot of tiny bubbles In the paint as you brush. (key song here)
http://www.elyrics.net/read/c/connie-francis-lyrics/tiny-bubbles-lyrics.html

As I progressed I kept going back and brushing over again brushing out the bubbles.
I found that it is Very important to keep a wet edge which isn't easy!
Also, The brush marks melt away after a few minutes which I'm pleased about.

All in all I'm happy with coat one. I'm anxious to check out the color my wife chose against the paint.........I trust her but this time I'm wondering..........

Instructions say to apply three coats sanding with 320 between each coat. With a MINIMUM of 8 hours drying before sanding..... Shocked

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Last edited by djkeev on Mon Mar 25, 2013 2:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, coat #1 is dry, scuffed it with 320 grit and wiped it down for dust. Lightly scuffed the phantom WESFALIA really pops out!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And 2nd coat on! Smile
It should be mentioned that the 2nd coat had an entirely different "flow" to it than the first coat.
The first coat acted almost watery with little body to it covering the original paint/Gelcoat.
The second coat wanted to amply adhere and cling to its chemically identical first coat. Way more coverage, almost to much, really had to brush it out and be extremely vigilant watching for sags!

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This should by dry by nightfall....... Hopefully do the 3rd this evening.

Dave
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Last edited by djkeev on Sun Mar 24, 2013 7:45 am; edited 1 time in total
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow - that is shiny for sure. Should clean up well...???

Great pics & documentation!
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!
Shiny is good......... No? We wanted to not have the blinding Snow White top but rather stay in the color family of the original color which was a tan/beige. With a limited premix color selection available we (she) hopefully chose well! ( Color choices are documented in here...........)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...p;start=80

I haven't yet colored compared with the light Gold Savannah Beige Metallic Van...... My Wife keeps saying....."It will look great!"

Knock on Wood she is correct! At $50 per Quart and minimum two days painting..........

Dave
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tam_shops
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great!

You're quick! All I've gotten done is cleaning mine...

tam
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tam, I'm not sure about "quick"!

There is nothing quick about doing this project......You are at the mercy of time and Temperature.......that of literally watching paint dry! Maybe I'm simply persistent?

Sadly I've got yet another "Winter Storm Event" due here in the next 12 hours or so. I was hoping to be done and the top back on the Van, but alas.......too much drying time is required!

The 4 studs that hold the rear of this luggage top on are simply Carriage Bolts pushed up through the roof panel from inside. There is not a water seal except for the round rubber seal between the top and the roof panel.

My Van is parked front up on the incline into my Garage, any and all water will be headed towards the rear and into these four bolt holes.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


If this happens, Rain water will seep down and probably ruin the cardboard? Headliner.

So I simply installed the hardware sans fiberglass for this impending wet event!
(Still have to clean and wax the roof under the luggage rack)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Dave
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What color did you choose? I didn't see it in a quick reading of the other thread. How many quarts did you get?
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I.....um........my wife, chose Interlux Brightside Bristol Beige 4207.
I purchased 2 qts. I think it will take a smidgen over one, pints are not sold. Sad

Only 2 coats applied thus far but I really wanted to color check before forging ahead ...... I'm happy! Dancing
Much better than the faded, dull dirty white!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now to sand again, I do have a Sag that I need to remove before the final coat.

Dave
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Because of the amount of hardware rust, I've sought out new fasteners for all of the pop top hardware.

I've found that finding a Stainless Steel 6mm 1.0 16mm long with a 16mm diameter Slotted Truss Head Screw is nigh unto impossible!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


There was someone on here selling them awhile back but his supply is depleted. Go Westy has screws listed but again, no stock.

I ended up talking to my Fastenal guy and we found that Fastenal item #TM2550016A20000 is a dead on match except it has a smaller head diameter, 14mm vs the factory 16mm.

I came to the conclusion that this head size difference is largely a "non-issue".

Most of the fastening stress appears to be placed upon the 6mm threaded shaft in contact with the 6mm hole drilled through the top. The screw head and the washer/nut only squeeze the metal to the fiberglass preventing the screw from falling out.

The only exception to this are the Carriage bolts for the latch. Considering that they have the task of holding the top closed with wind and vibration they do actually have a stress put upon the 16mm head and that it could make a difference in preventing the head from pulling through the Fiberglas top.
I may install a Stainless Steel fender washer under these, I'll evaluate this when I pull the main top.

Here is a photo of the new screw next to the non rusted old screw.....
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I also picked up rubber washers at Lowes. I'm not sure that I want to paint the screw heads or not. I also plan on removing the front luggage carrier annually/bi-annually to clean out debris, bees nests and to wax under it. I figure that the rubber washers should prevent the screw head from digging into and marring the paint around the fastening hole with multiple removal/installation cycles.
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Dave
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sunny afternoon, 51 degrees....clouds roll in..........SNOWING!!!!! What The Heck!?! Winter.......just let go!

Anyway, simple greened the top of the Van below the luggage rack, scrubbed it with a scrub brush and HOT water, absolutely BLACK suds!

Rinsed it off well, no shine, still a thin layer of grime. I figure some rubbing compound should clean it right up!

Before......
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

After..........
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One of the more discouraging points is the rust caused but the fiberglass touching the paint for 27 years! Sad
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Dave
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ That is just surface rust and should clean up quite easily.

Good work - keep it up!
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As typically happens while in the midst of a project.......... distraction!
If you've seen the movie "UP" remember the dog ? ........."I love you! Will you be my Master?"...............and his reaction to seeing a "SQUIRREL!!!! "
Well, I'm the dog!

Thinking ahead, looking at the Vanagon interior, no cup holders, no place to put needed "stuff" as you drive.......

Looking at consoles online....... looking at threads on here about various consoles...... build you own ideas............iffy at best............ purchase an after market unit.............. a decent one is an easy $100....... hmmmmmm

Wait! I've got a 2003 Dodge Caravan that will soon be leaving..... nice center console.......electrified with lights and power ports..... I wonder.....

So, I removed it and carried it to the Vanagon.... a quick coat of a Brown Plastic paint......... add a cup holder of some sort on the back..... it fits nicely between the seats..... it clears the parking brake......and a bonus is that it easily removes with the quick squeeze of a lever from the base! If it's in my way, bye bye!

OK photos....we all LOVE photos! Very Happy
(the passenger seat is currently removed for upholstery, can't imagine why? )

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


(it has a lit removeable tray for the rear door area)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


(see, there is plenty of space to incorporate a cup holder in the back of this unit.....)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


(and the floor mounting bracket. Power connections and firm attachment to the floor, yes the van needs vacuuming, its mostly dead leaves)
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Feedback? Alternate ideas?

Dave
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Feedback? Alternate ideas?

- I don't see the point of a power port in that console - you already have the nearby dash (front) & camping battery (rear).

- for Lighting inside the compartments, the easy thing to do is put battery operated LEDs in - the batteries could last several years and will not drain your vehicle battery.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
Feedback? Alternate ideas?

- I don't see the point of a power port in that console - you already have the nearby dash (front) & camping battery (rear).

- for Lighting inside the compartments, the easy thing to do is put battery operated LEDs in - the batteries could last several years and will not drain your vehicle battery.


Well, if you are one of those who have fully embraced the 21st Century as my wife and myself have.......power ports have become extremely useful while traveling.
Our GPS unit, Cellular Phones, iPads, etc all need charging.
I guess if you run no tech or low tech, it's a non issue.
If that is your situation, don't bother wiring the hot foot on the console mounting base, that makes the installation super easy!

A light inside the storage box area is great for a night time search for a given item.

I'm not even thinking of power port or light usage while parked.

Dave
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