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Rebirth of 23 window walk-thru Restoration
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teamasr
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fresh paint, still drying.

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After the 1500 grit job.

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teamasr
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tomorrow's duty...to get this guy fed through the frame. Question: pull the harness from front to rear or from rear to front? Seems like a lot more lose wires if I pull from front to back, but read it is supposed to be easier that way?

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55samba
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good!

I changed the harness on my 23 after paint, not fun... I used a steel braided (small diameter) wire cable. Back lopped each end, tied it secure and pulled the old harness out. Then I pulled the new harness from rear to front with the cable. I pulled so hard it almost came off the jack stands. If your guide wire comes loose you are F'd...

I would not tie the old harness to the new, you need to make sure it is very secure and not too much larger in diameter than OG.

Good thing you caught the dog leg paint masking thing!
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teamasr
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey still owe you for that panel you sent me. Helped a lot with color match. Maybe I buy lunch when it's time to get yours painted?

A little worried now on the harness. How did you tie the wire to the new harness? I agree that using the old harness is a bad idea...too many wires, too thick.
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55samba
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I did mine I bent the end of the harness in a u shape, with several inches overlapping, same with the wire cable. I twisted each end and duct taped each side. I made sure the was nearly a food over overlap on each "u" bend. I can make a drawing if that does not make sense.

The harness obviously gets larger, and harder to pull... But I wanted to make sure it would not come disconnected. I would have had to tear the harness in half before the guide wire let go.

I was thinking of another way. You could wrap the cable guide wire around the harness like a snake for a few feet and duct tape it, as you pull it would constrict., in theory...

BTW, is that single stage or 2 stage paint?
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House
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 12:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, that looks great! Why did they mask the belt line trim holes when they
sprayed the Turkis?
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teamasr
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Understood. I'll give it a go.

I think the tape was put on as they did a walk around looking for problems.
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zack1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bus look good! I see your in the Bay Area what shop did the painting?
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PeteSC
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

House wrote:
Why did they mask the belt line trim holes when they
sprayed the Turkis?


Perhaps masked after color sanding and before buffing to avoid compound build up in the holes?
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teamasr
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

New harness is now routed. Old one would only come out through the back and new one would only go in toward the front. Go figure. I used some wire pulling lube from Ideal which helped with the pull.

The shop that did the paint work is Miracle in Pleasanton. They do the $499 paint jobs up show winning cars that can be found at the Goodguys show. All depends on what you want. My paint was 2 stage (base/clear).
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teamasr
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bought an insulation kit from Sewfine, which was nicely cut and labeled. Had a chance to cover a couple of panels. First put down Dynomat, followed by insulation. Did wonders to the tin can sound of the panels.

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bally
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good Smile
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teamasr
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally finished with the overhead vent resto. All back together.

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easy e
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All that sound deadening & insulation.... so nice!!... just thinking about it makes me want to take a nap at work.
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teamasr
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Electrical was also coming along until one of the tabs on the ignition broke.

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teamasr
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Figured before I take the bus in for the headliner, better cover the top with insulation too, so knocked that out too.
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Big Bill
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

teamasr wrote:
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Figured before I take the bus in for the headliner, better cover the top with insulation too, so knocked that out too.


Your bus is looking great, could you tell me what you are using for the insulation on the roof? Thanks
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esde
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Bill wrote:
teamasr wrote:


Figured before I take the bus in for the headliner, better cover the top with insulation too, so knocked that out too.


Your bus is looking great, could you tell me what you are using for the insulation on the roof? Thanks


And what glue are you using?
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teamasr
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its jute padding, that you can get from the local hardware store. I bought a kit, with all padding precut, from sewfine, but you can cut your own if you just buy the stuff.

I put dynomat first, using the adhesive to make sure it stays on, then after it dried, put the jute padding on top.

The adhesive is Permatex headliner adhesive which you can get from local parts store or online.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-27828-Headliner-Adh...atex+27828
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nigel naughton
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amazing build and documentation...that paint is so sick!

Thanks for allowing us to follow your progress
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